Seb Bouin has done another 9a, Super Finale in Rawyl in just four tries. It total, he has now done some 35 routes 9a to 9b. "It was the most extreme conditions of the year. First day we only climbed one route, it was cold, super windy, and waterfall from the crag was falling on the belayer... Second day we were stronger in the head, and it worked"

During the Speed qualification in Chongqing, we can see that both the Specialists and the Boulderers, set new standards. Kokoro Fujii did 6.62 which is the second fastest ever, after Mickael Mawem at 6.34, by a none-Speed specialist. Manuel Cornu was runner up at 6.68 and Jan Hojer third at 6.76 among the big names. Another eight did were below 7.2 seconds, so we are talking a big general improvement. Among the female, Janja Garnbret set a new personal best with 9.46 being #3 among the none-Speed specialist after Elena Krasovskaya at 8.96 and Sol Sa at 9.41. Kyra Kondie was fourth at 9.56 followed by 16 year old Oceania Mackenzie at 9.64. Akiyo Noguchi, Petra Klingler and Julia Chanourdie did also go below 10 seconds. Complete results

YiLing Song has set a new World Record by 7.101 seconds in the Quarterfinal run, dispatching the old mark of 7.32 held by both Iuliia Kaplina and Anouck Jaubert. Song continued winning as she also did in the first event. (c) Eddie Fowke Among the male, Alifan Muhammed won his first event. His fastest time was 5.91 which actually was slower then the all the Top-5 best times. Two weeks ago Akifan was #24 and his best in 2018 was #6. Video of the finals. Complete results

Babsi Zangerl reports on Insta that she has done Atlantic 8c and Missing Link 8c+ in Voralpsee. (c) Jacopo Larcher who just did Speed Integrale 9a. First day she checked the moves twice and then after a rest day she sent it directly after placing the draws and checking the moves again. "I couldn't train so much this winter due to an nerve compression on my old broken disc. I had to rest 7 weeks. So right after the climbing break I started with rock climbing again. It was a big surprise. I definitely think it fits definitely my style." Ten years ago, Barbara Zangerl was one of the very best female boulderers in the world. In 2009, she got an herniated vertebral disc which made her stop bouldering. Including one 9a and several 8c+' she is also nowadays among the best in sportclimbing and the same goes for trad, where she has done several 8b+' and 8c. Even so, big-walls and multi-pitches should be her best discipline with three FFA's in Yosemite up to 8c. So she is the best female multi-discipline rock climber out there, and in fact, a rather superior #1.

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Alex Puccio has done her fifth 8B+, Heritage in Valle Bavona. (c) Robin O'Leary Including also 26 8B's, Alex has the most impressive female tick list and a wide pyramid foundation for going for 8C. In 2014, she got the silver in the world championship and she won her last and only World Cup she did in 2018. "Wow.... psyched! 1st try on my 6th or 7th day. I fell off the last move 3rd day on it 2 times and then for the next days I was struggling to stay on the wall due to the warmth and high humidity! Finally got a windy, but warm day. Didn’t even warm up. Last day best day!!!! :) This boulder is way harder being under a certain height! Have to hop out of the toe hook for the first crux move to the left hand gastone and then the last move to the right hand just under the lip is WAY harder since for my height you can’t use the good left lower foot others use. Have to ball up and punch to the last hold. Was a huge crux for me!!!"