Five female did fall on the same move and and in fact, the Top-3 had also the same score in the semi, so their internal ranking was based on the qualification results. In the end, 15 year old Chaehyon who was #2 last weekend, won as she had the best qualification result topping both routes. It should be mentioned that Jessica Pilz first got a better final scoring but later she was not recorded to have control of the crux hold, so was #3. Runner-up was YueTong Zhang (16) who was #9 in Villars. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Adam Ondra was last out and in his normal fast style he executed and once he passed Alex Megos high point he got all the 12 000 spectators behind him. Then he waved for more support and continued towards the top falling but as he said afterwards, there were too small as the route setters possibly wanted to avoid tops as in Villars last week. Ondra will skip Briancon and instead train for the WCH i Tokyo in August. Complete results

Adam Ondra, who skipped the WC in Villars last week due to a wrist injury, was the only male who topped both routes. Surprisingly, Tomoa Narasaki, who won the semi last week and then was #6 in the final, was #28 and failed to make it to the semi. Anyhow, Japan got five into the semi. Among the female, 15 year old Chaeyon, who was #2 in Villars, was together with Janja Garnbret the one one making double. Slovenia got four to the semi. Interesting, Janja come with a strong statement in regards the poor route setting last week on Insta; "Anyway, I have to say that I’m disappointed about the routesetting in the finals. This is not what we have been training for. Where are hard lead routes where you have to fight hard against the pump and not just climbing routes for the show?" Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Alizée Dufraisse has done Ray of Light which is her third 8B in Rocklands the last twelve months. More info to come. Allizée won the Youth World Champion in 2003. In 2004 she started pole vaulting and in 2008 she was the French Champion at 4.35 but missed the Olympic games. Then back to climbing comps again where she was #3 in a Lead WC in 2009 when she won in Bouldering in Arco Rock Master. Including two 9a's etc, she is #2 in the 8a All Time ranking game, meaning she should be considered Top-10 of all female sport climbers in the history.

For some reason, most athletes in the Speed qualifications climbed slower than in Villars last week. Fastest among the high ranked female Lead and Boulder specialists was Futaba Ito at 9.39. Among the male, Tomoa Narasaki was fastest among the best high ranked Combined climbers at 6.51. Interesting is Adam Ondra's 8.01 which can be compared with his 9.32 in his first ever Speed event during WCH in Innsbruck last year. Complete results (c) Eddie Fowke

Loic Zehani has done his seventh 9a FA, La grande vadrouille in Gargantua. "In total there are 90 movements in roof and big overhang. The finish is hard and more crimpy in overhang too. The first part is a 8b+ in a roof very physical and stamina (45 movements) after that you have a hard section with shoulder boulder moves. Here you have done an 8c+. After a physical rest you have a last hard section with crimps in the end of the overhang. It's hard to not fall after all the energy you left before… It's in fact the connection between 3 routes; Dégenéréscence / Uncle spit/ Gargantuesque, but it's very logical and cool line."

Thursday: Speed qualification Friday: Lead qualification and Speed Finals 21.00 Saturday: 10.00-12.30 Men & Women Lead Semi-finals [LIVE] 20.50-21.30 Women Lead Final [LIVE] 21.50-22.35 Men Lead Final [LIVE]

Alex Puccio has done Ground control 8A+ in Mt Evans as well as repeated Isabelle Faus' Gold Rush 8B in Coal Creek. "Thank you Fausey and Chad for inviting us up to climb and showing another cool boulder! :) Harder V12 or soft 8B. Breaks down to a V6/7 to a V11 to a V9. Really fun traverse. :)" (c) Cameron Maier Alex has now done 94 boulders 8A+ to 8B+,out of which 14 the last twelve months. The runner up in the World Championship in 2014 is #2 in the ranking game after Fausey.