Jaka Šprah has done his first 9a, Water world in Osp/Misja Pec. "Water world is an amazing 55m long line in the big cave of Osp opened by Klemen Bečan five years ago. I first tried it last September and did it with one hang after about 10-15 tries, but it eventually took me 46 tries to piece the whole thing together. This July we took a long trip to Rodellar and it was a great preparation for Water world with a similar style of climbing. Something that helped me a lot was visualizing the route every evening. It enabled me to come back to it after about five months and feel almost like I was on it yesterday. I did it with two different shoes because Adam Ondra does it that way and I want to be sponsored by both Scarpa and La Sportiva."

Janja Garnbret onsighted all five problems and also Akiyo Noguchi, Petra Klingler, Nanako Kura and Chaehyon Seo (15), in her very first international Bouldering comp, got five tops. In total, four from both Japan and Slovenia to the semi and Switzerland had three that made it through. The big surprise was that the best female from Austria was Jessica Pilz as #33. Last year she was #4 in Bouldering and #3 in Combined. Noteworthy is that the fifth and last Slovenian was #21 and that Anouck Jaubert, the Speed specialist, got her best ever bouldering result being #37. It should also be mentioned that 25 % of the 89 female ended up with no Top and no Zone. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

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The world championship will start tomorrow with the female Boulder qualification. Based on an 8a poll with almost 1 000 unique votes, Janja Garnbret is the favorite to win Combined. Surprisingly, 15 year old Chayheon Seo who never has done a Boulder World Cup is runner up in the voting. The Top-7, included a max country quota of 2, will qualify to the Olympics. Unfourtunately, she will start as #43 in her group meaning she will face worse conditions compared to the highest ranked. 78 % Janja Garnbret 07 % Chaehyon Seo 05 % Miho Nonaka 05 % Others 03 % Jessica Pilz 02 % Akiyo Noguchi

Marketa Janosova, who has been third in the last two Lead Euro Youth Cups, has done her first 8c, Pijane trójkąty in Podzamcze. (c) Krzysiek Przybysz This summer the 15 year old has also onsighted five 7c+' as well as her first 8a. In the Age and Gender bonus ranking game, she is #12.

Martin Stráník has done is eighth 8C, Ghost Rider in Moravský kras and he is #4 in the ranking game. (c) Jakub Konečný "5 sessions, super powerful climbing in cave, love this style of climbing, really fits my style! Another stunner for Moravia Carst, potential of hard lines here is endless!" Martin started out as a successful youth Led competition climber who later got the silver in the Boulder World Championship in 2007 at age 17. This year he took up Lead again and was #9 and #6 in the only Lead WCs he did. Speed, he has also tried twice but two false start so we do not know if he could be a dark horse for one of the Tokyo tickets.

Stefano Carnati, who last year did Biographie 9a+, has done Thor's hammer in Flatanger calling it 9a. (c) Francois Peraldi "King line, 60m, never over! On my 3rd day on it I was able to link all the hardest part from the fourth bolt, but the wet holds at the beginning turned out to be a nightmare and I found myself struggling with the first sequence for days! Think it's far harder than all the 9as I did, but I have less experience than all the others who did this route..."

ROCKLANDS UNCUT // Karo Sinnhuber from Karoline Sinnhuber on Vimeo.