1. Janja Garnbret SLO 33 2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 22 (4) 3. Shauna Coxsey GBR 22 (6) 4. Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 12 (3) 5. Miho Nonaka JPN 12 (5) 6. Nanako Kura JPN 1 Complete results Janja Garnbret saved the show and won in great style. On the picture by Vladek Zumr she is doing her patented pendulum swing sticking a sideway dyno.

The male boulder final turned out way too hard with Jakob Schubert getting the silver by only getting three zones. Tomoa Narasaki somewhat saved the show by getting two tops but was not even close on the remaining two. Third was Yannick Flohe, in reality being the closest to get a top beside Narasak, although suffering from bleeding fingers. Adam Ondra, who won the semi, was not even close to get one zone on the tricky and almost only coordination and jumping challenging boulders. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Sascha Lehmann, Jakob Schubert and Tomoa Narasaki flashed both qualification routes. Adam Ondra was #10 after one top and being #22 and Czech Republich had three guys in To-13. Japan got five through to the Top-26 semifinal and all their six participants Top-29. No big names failed to make it but some Olympic candidates struggled; #28 Jernej Kruder, #30 Nathaniel Coleman, #33 Jan Hojer, #38 Yannick Flohe, #39 Manuel Cornu and Michael Piccolruaz. Among the Speed specialist, Bassa Mawem was #60 which means that if he wins the Speed he will almost certain get an Olympic ticket. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

All big names but Sol Sa, Mina Markovic and Ashima Shiraishi made it through and interesting was Shauna Coxey at #23. Janja Garnbret was the only one to flash both routes and another four Slovenians Top-18. Among the Speed specialists; Andrea Rojas #56, Anouck Jaubert #60, Aleksandra Kalucka #64 and YiLing Song #66. It just might be that if any of them are #1 and #2, we might have two Speed specialists getting and Olympic ticket even if one is more likely. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr

Marco Zanone has done his second 9a, Le Cadre Nouvelle Version in Céüse, meaning he did the unchipped variant. "Wow. A real struggle for me. Can't believe I completed my second 9A in one of the best crag in the world. World-class, a route I'll never forget." Interesting is tha Marco had previous years done a maximum of two 8c+' and this year he has already done five. In the 8a ranking game, he is #11.

The route setters did over cook the female semi final boulders, although all four were topped, as three zones were good enough to make the final. In the end, Janja Garnbret with three tops and Akiyo Nuguchi with two, starting last, were ahead of the others with a big margin. The only other two tops were made on a slab and otherwise we only saw four girls getting close to top one boulder. Complete results 1. Janja Garnbret SLO 34 2. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 24 (c) Vladek Zumr 3. Nanako Kura JPN 12 4. Ievgeniia Kazbekova UKR 12 5. Miho Nonaka JPN 3 6. Shauna Coxsey GBR 3

Based on almost 1 000 unique votes, Adam Ondra is favorite to win Combined in Tokyo. The Bouldering qualification starts tomorrow. 50 % Adam Ondra 28 % Tomoa Narasaki 13 % Jakob Schubert 05 % Alex Megox 03 % Others 01 % Kokoro Fujii

Adam Ondra was the only one to get five tops in the qualification and he did it in only six tries. In the second group, Japan set a new domination record by getting all the Top-6 positions. No big surprises as the result followed the starting order suggesting that the conditions deteriorated with more chalk and higher temperature. Complete results (c) Vladek Zumr From the Combined perspective, the Mawem brothers did really well. Mickael was #23 and Bassa, the #1 in the Speed WC, was #67 by doing one zone in three tries. Also QiXin Zhong was #67 by getting one Top and two zones in the other group. If any of them will win Speed, they have chances to qualify to the Combined Top-20 event and, if so, any of them will get the Olympic ticket.