1. Tomoa Narasaki 4 - 4 = 16 2. Alex Megos 17 - 1 = 17 (c) Vladek Zumr 2. Rishat Khaibullin 1 - 17 = 17 4. Kai Harada 6 - 3 = 18 5. Mickael Mawem 3 - 8 = 24 6. Jakob Schubert 15 - 2 = 30 7. Kokoro Fujii 5 - 7 = 35 8. Ludovico Fossali 2 - 20 = 40 8. Meichi Narasaki 8 - 5 = 40 10. Mickael Piccolruaz 7 - 13 = 91 11. Jernej Kruder 13 - 9 = 117 12. Adam Ondra 20 - 6 = 120 12. Nathaniel Coleman 10 - 12 = 120 14. Keita Dohi 11 - 11 = 121 15. Jongwon Chon 9 - 16 = 144 16. Jan Jojer 19 - 10 = 190 17. Rudolph Ruana 12 - 18 = 216 18. Yannick Flohe 16 - 14 = 224 19. Stefano Ghisolfi 14 - 19 = 266 20. Sean McColl 18 - 15 = 270 As we would expect the Top-8 cut will be around 400; probably the current Top-7 plus Adam Ondra will move to the final round. As it looks like we will have at least three from Japan Top-8, also #9 will probably make it through to Tokyo. This is a total open affair where also Ghisolfi and McColl is still in the running if any of them win and other results goes their way. If we get four from Japan Top-10, in theory even Fossali could make it although getting dead last also in Lead.

Big drama in the end of the Lead. Adam Ondra needed to be at least #3 to guarantee a place in the Top-8 Combined final. He put on cruise control but suddenly, looking very strong, a foot slipped and he was #3 before last man out Tomoa Narasaki. He also looked very strong but suddenly he fell so Adam was in. Then the commentators said there was a technical bolt-standing incident with Adam who was put down to #18 and 23 as his score. Later on the IFSC page his score was changed into 10 and on the picture you see the incident. Most probably there will be an appeal as you only get marked down if you can have made use of the bolt. Just a touch of the bolt that does not help you is normally ok. So the big question is if Ondra weighted the bolt?

1. Janja Garnbret 7 * 2 = 14 (c) Vladek Zumr 2. Shauna Coxsey 14 * 1 = 14 3. Aleksandra Miroslaw 1 * 19 = 19 4. Futaba Ito 4 * 5 = 20 5. Petra Klingler 8 * 3 = 24 6. Miho Nonaka 5 * 6 = 30 7. Anouck Jaubert 2 * 17 = 34 8. Akiyo Noguchi 10 * 4 = 40 9. Di Niu 3 * 19 = 58.5 10. Brooke Raboutou 6 * 10 = 60 11. Julia Chanourdie 9 * 8 = 72 12. Jessica Pilz 11 * 7 = 77 13. Allanah Yip 12 * 11 = 132 14. Lucka Rakovec 15 * 12 = 180 15. Vita Lukan 20 * 9 = 180 16. Nanako Kura 13 * 15 = 195 17. Chaehyon Seo 16 * 13 = 208 18. Mia Krampl 19 * 14 = 266 19. Ai Mori 19 * 14 = 288 20. Ievgeniia Kazbekova 17 * 18 = 306 It is expected that the Top-8 cut will be around 400 meaning it is still an open affair for the current Top-17, even if Janja wins in Lead. At the same time, it is predicted that all the current Top-8 but Anouck will make it as they are all quite good also in Lead. This would mean that Jessica Pilz is the favorite to get the last spot ahead of Chaehyon Seo and Julia Chanourdie. It should be mentioned that it also might be that #9 will get a ticket to the Olympics if three from Japan is ranked Top-8. This should also mean that Mia Krampl could get a ticket if she is at least #2 in Lead.

Janja Garnbret set a new personal best in the Speed qualifications at 9.16 and was ranked #1 among the non-Speed specialists that probably will make the Top-20. Five from Japan and four from Slovenia made it to the Top-20 Combined final with Akiyo Noguchi ranked #2 and Shauna Coxsey #3. The biggest sensation was that Fanny Gibert seems to miss the Top-20 after a poor run at 10.25 as her best. Complete results

Tomoa Narasaki impressed again by hitting 6.29 in Speed which can be compared to 7.87 by Adam Ondra, 7.94 by Jakob Schubert and 8.94 by Alex Megos. Mickael Mawem was the fastest by the non-Speed specialist with 6.28. Interesting was also that all five Japanese that qualified Top-11 made 7.12 or faster. Manuel Cornu, Sascha Lehmann, William Bosi and Domen Skofic failed to qualify due to not producing up to their best Speed performance.