hugo parmentier, who this summer has done both his first 9a as well as his first 9a+, has done Trip Tik Tonic 9a in Gorges du Loup. (c) Olivier Moise "It took me 8 days and 17 try. This is my pure anti style. I am really happy to have done a hard route in that style. Same day I try than did 8c 3rd go, 8b+ (tried once before) and 8a+ flash. That was a surreal day after days of struggling in one single route. Now I go back to Paris for school and I will train and climb in Font till January." How can you explain your recent progress? I think it is a result of a year of serious and hard training. But I think it's also a mindset. I really want to progress in climbing and that my main goal in parallel of my studies. I struggled with finger injuries the past years. Now I am starting to know myself better and to be careful.

Jorge Diaz-Rullo has done the FA of Patanics 9b in Rodellar. It is a 60 m steep link up of three routes; Pata Negra 8c, the crux of No pain no gain 9a+ and the end of Botanics 8b+. "The most impressive line that I have ever climbed! I didn't think I could do it until the last bolt. Brutal amazing days with the best people! Thank you!" (c) Javi Pec The 19 year old is for the first time ever, #1 in the ranking game having done three 9b's this summer. In the Combined ranking game, the Spaniard has been the superior #1 for more than a year.

Jonatan Flor has done the FA of the 60 m long Apocalipsis de la Gioconda 9b in Rodellar which is a 25 m extension tp Apocalipsis an 8c+/9a he did the FA of last week. It took him around one month of effort to take it down. (c) Guillermo Dominguez

Japan got six out of the nine medals in the oldest male and the youngest boys and girls finals. In the youngest boys, they were most superior being 1 - 3 in both the semi and the final. Shuta Tanaka, in the junior, was the most superior out of all winner as he he was the only one topping both qualies as well as winning both the semi and the final. The worst result for any of the nine participating Japanese were #5. It should be mentioned that in the oldest male category, they filed three appeals out of which one was accepted. Yesterday, 8a published and article saying appeals should be forbidden and replaced with "VAR". Oriane Bertone, #3 in the 8a boulder ranking game, from France won the youngest girl category and she was also won the semi by topping it. 00: Shuta Tanaka JPN (c) Eddie Fowke 04: Junta Sekiguchi JPN - Oriane Bertone FRA Complete results

00: Laura Rogora ITA (c) Marco Iacono 02: Nika Potapova UKR - Hidemasa Nishida JPN Complete results Interesting is that Slovenia did not have one finalist on the second day of the Lead final and that Austria did just get one #7 and one #8 position. Noteworthy is that Brooke Raboutou, who just qualified to the Olympics, was third among the juniors.

Updated results

Hannah Donnelly has done her first 8A+, Green Mamba in Rocklands after 12 days projecting. She comments on Insta, "I have learned so much both mentally and physically about myself and what I am capable of in my climbing. I couldn’t be more thankful for the process. Thanks to @jwebxl for being there through the emotional waves. I couldn’t have pushed through without the endless hugs and support. (c) Jimmy Webb