Adam Ondra, who will compete in Kranj this weekend, has done his 12th 8C, Ghost Rider in Moravský kras. "2nd ascent after Martin Stranik. Amazing problem, lower start is waiting..."

Jesús Muñoz (Chuchi), who this spring did his first 9a, has done his second 8C in Hoya Moros, Eterno Legado. The FA was done by Alberto Rocasolano as an 8B+/C but later a hold broke making it harder. It is located at 2 400m altitude one hour from Salamanca with a 90 min approach. In total there are some 850 boulders up there (c) Víctor Rodríguez "After some rainy weeks, the weather was better and I could go back to Hoya Moros. Although it was a little wet day, the cold temperature counteracted it. After some attempts falling into the last movements, in my last try, I was able to link the 20 movements to sent it. It has been a long process from July to complete all the lines and combinations of this rock. I am very happy to have finished this process before the snow cover everything. However, before this happens I hope to send more projects in this area. Let's keep going!"

Wojtek Pełka, who just turned 20, has done his first 9a, Black Cobra (2) in Herculane. Adam Ondra put it up last year saying that there is a possible extension and variations... "to be continued". "What an amazing wall! So glad to repeat this endurance monster with some spicy long pulls. I was in Baile Herculane for two weeks trying the route for 6 days since I've realized it's the only alternative in this quite virgin area. I wasn't sure if it was possible to send it at first sight, in spite of doing all the moves. But my girlfriend and friend persuaded me to give it a chance. As at got cooler - around 20 degrees I managed to send it.

1. Paul Jenft FRA 44 - Naile Meignan FRA 34 2. Hector Bazan Martin ESP 34 - Miriam Fogu ITA 24 3. Aberto Gines Lopez ESP 33 - Vanda Michalkova SVK 23 Complete results

1. Stefan Scherz AUT 44/4 - Sandra Lettner AUT 34 2. Nicolai Uznik AUT 44/5 - Camilla Moroni ITA 33 3. Maximillian Milne GBR 44/6 - Flavy Cohaut FRA 33 Complete results The European Youth Championship in Bouldering in Brixen have had a good start. The Norwegian coach Reino Horak says great organization and route setting in all rounds so far besides the male junior final which was to easy. Maximillian Milne was #3 doing all four problems in six tries including having been called down due to a false starting, which cost him the silver. Here is the video from the streaming. Finals for the younger two categories continues today and you can follow it on the Live-streaming.

1. Oriane Bertone FRA 44 - Toby Roberts GBR 33 2. Zélia Avezou FRA 34 - Edvards Gruzitis LAT 24/2 3. Markéta Janosová CZE 24 - Alessandro Mele 24/4 Complete results Oriane Bertone, who won two golds in the Youth World Championship in Arco and almost made it to the final at Adidas Rock Master, got another superior victory. In the 8a ranking game, the 14-year-old is #3 after having done multiple 8B's. Her father accompanies on all trips. "We still live in Reunion Island. Sometimes it is difficult because there are 11 hours of flight from Paris. For example, we return Monday, September 2 after Arco and we return to Stuttgart for Adidas Rockstar a week later. Then in Brixen for the European Championships on September 20th. In short, it's tiring. To prepare competitions, she does nothing but climbing outside and on plastic. There is nothing special about training. Climbing a lot, solving problems, doing hard projects and so on, is very motivating for her and it makes her progress without having the impression of working."

Adam Ondra has taken some free time from competition preperation by doing his 42:nd 9a+, Qui in Geisterschmiedwand. "2nd ascent after 23 year, FA Stefan Furst in 1996. It took me over 10 years and roughly 10 days. 1st day this year. Stefan gave it 9a, possibly something have broken, but very possibly it has not got much harder due to breaks. I believe it is more 9a+ now, even though the crux is very hard to grade. The difficulty is not to be underestimated as the first 8c section is suprisingly tiring and makes the crux so much harder." Really nice that his belayer was Furst captured on Adam's Insta, with all details. Interesting is that Furst gave it 8c+ in 1996 as Action Directe was considered 8c+/9a at the time.

Rock & Ice report that Molly Mitchellhas done China Doll 8b+ R on trad. It is a 40 meter link up of an 8a+ sport route with an 8b R trad route. In Frankenjura the terms "green point" is used for doing sport routes on trad. (c) Scott Crady "I worked on the route since mid May. I sent the first pitch on the bolts back in July, then sent the first pitch on gear back in August, then sent the whole line on gear last week. It’s funny because somewhere over the course of working on it I got really used to the first pitch and would warm up sending it on toprope every time I went out. And when I first started working the second pitch as the extension, it came along a lot quicker than I had imagined. I was constantly making pretty big progress, and everyone seemed to believe in me that I could do it. It was just hard for me to fully believe. I started to put a lot of pressure on myself. When I sent it was not the best conditions, which honestly I think helped just get my mindset into just trying my best as opposed to feeling pressure to execute. I was in disbelief clipping the chains. It was a huge breakthrough for me mentally. I think for a bigger perspective - it makes me want to keep pushing. It’s motivating for me to find a new project and aspire to more things! I thought I’d want to take a break from projecting after this long summer project, but honestly I’m just so excited to find what inspires me next!" Molly has done several 8b+ sport routes and 8a on trad. Previously just a handful woman have done 8b+ on trad. It should be mentioned that there are at most just a dozen male who have done an 8c or harder on trad. Documentary video when Heather Weidner did the first female ascent.