Marine Thevenet, who has done some 40 boulders 8A to 8B, reports on Instathat she has done her probably hardest boulder ever, Scarred for Life 8A+ in Fionnay. (c) Clement Lechatpois

"The first time I tried the boulder, it seemed impossible: I had no chance to do the long key move because of my height; but after some sessions, I found another beta by crimping a slippery foot-hold on the edge of the first mantle!"

Josema Urrestarazu has done the fourth ascent of Ekaitz Maiz' 90-meter long Basapiztien Eremua 9a (8c+) in Etxauri. The 51-year-old did his first and only 9a in 2014 and he says he was not in it for the grade but for the height. Sometimes he took 15-meter falls. Last year he did an 8c+ and made the FA of several hard routes which he did not grade. It should be mentioned that the first repetitor Iban Larrida thought it was 8c or 8c+. Source, in Spanish, Desnivel.

Nicholas Milburn has done his second 9a, Algorithm at the Fins, which Jonathan Siegrist put up in 2012. "It took me five weeks to learn how to grab the crux pocket, but damn did learn the subtleties of that hold. It took me six weeks to send the route, but damn did I sent. I even topped out and untied. I thought that was pretty cool. By the time I sent Algorithm, it felt really good. For such a long route, it's surprisingly cruxy. I only ever stuck the crux move twice from the ground, and the first time I stuck it, I slipped off immediately afterward. I felt silly but was excited by my progress. Overall, it is an incredible route on incredible rock in an incredible area." (c) Ben Crawford

Boulderwise, Nicholas has done up to 8C. Here is a new video including the first repeat of Jimmy Webb's Mind Shift 8B+ where he found a new kneebar that possibly made it easier.

Natalia Grossman, who has done seven 8A+' and harder since May, has done her first 8A flash, Clear Blue Skies in Mt Evans. The 19-year-old is #1 in the 8a monthly ranking game. Last year she got two silver in the Youth World Championship last year and among the seniors, she was #7 in the Boulder World Cup in Vail.

"Proud of this flash!!! Brooke did this climb second try(a little while ago) and she wished that she had tried to flash it since it wasn’t “too bad.” She really wanted me to flash so she gave me all the beta and I carefully studied the climb before pulling on. Honestly, it was the first time I’ve tried to flash something hard and I look forward to taking my flash attempts more seriously in the future!"

Cameron Hörst, the oldest son to training guru Eric, has done his second 9a, White Lightning in Wild Iris. "The climb is a link up of a 8b+ called “Heart Full of Ghosts” into the main crux “Moonshine” which is the 9a I did last year. So the first crux is like a v10/11 mono crux that leads you into the main crux (of moonshine) which is a hard v12!"

How were you able to train during the lockdown and what about continuing your football career?
I have a really extensive home gym that consists of a large bouldering spray wall, numerous hangboards, a campus board, and a treadwall. So, I was quite well off training wise during the lockdown (thankfully).

I played football through school my whole life until graduation. I started on the varsity team by the time I was in 10th grade (sophomore). By the time I was in 12th grade (senior year) I was the captain of the team and voted MVP by the end of the season. I had the opportunity to play football in college at small universities but decided to take time off of school to peruse climbing. There is no chance of me continuing, climbing is my real passion and I am focused on that!

(c) Eric Hörst, who also comments, "I was present to see both of my sons send their hardest-ever routes. Younger brother Jonathan (17) climbed 8c just an hour before Cameron sent his 9a. A proud day for coach Horst!"

Noteworthy is that Cameron did his first 8b+, God's Own Stone, at age eleven, and Jonathan did it when he was just ten years old. As can be seen from their scorecard, later they have both focused on doing insights and building a wide grade pyramid which goes in line with the training philosophy by their father.

Simon Lorenzi, #14 in the last World Cup 2019, has done the FA of Coup d’etat, which he thinks could be the first 9a in Belgium. The route was bolted by Micha Vanhoudt in 2016. (c) John Janssens

”It's an amazing short line on an orange wall, really fingery with nice holds. I did like 4 sessions on it in 2018 (I was quite far to doing it) then I didn't try again since this year. It went at my 3rd session this year. I'd say it's the hardest route i've ever done and the hardest in Belgium.

During the lockdown I moved to a friend's house with fews friends because he has everything that we need to train well. Spray wall, fitness and all the stuff to keep progressing during this period. We were really lucky for that.”

Cedric Lachat has done the fourth ascent of WoGü in Rätikon which Adam Ondra made the FA of in 2009. Beat Kammerlander bolted it in 1997 and the name is a tribute to Wolfgang Güllich. It is 350 meters long over nine pitches and it is said to have two 8c' and two 8b+'. Interestingly, Cedric thinks it is his most difficult route ever although having done seven 9a+ as well as many of the hardest MP's in the world including Orbayu 8c. Edu Marin did the first repeat, suggesting an upgrade to 8c+ of one of the 8c', and Roland Hemetzberger did the third ascent. (c) Marc Daviet

Normally, multi-pitches are graded by the hardest pitch instead of giving the whole climb an overall difficulty. Chatting with Cedric he says that, "It's easier to do a 9a or even a 9a+ in a day! Wogü requires a lot of experience."

What he refers to is that if he falls on one of the hardest pitches, he looses so much energy and time so he can not finish the remaining pitches during one day. Cedric projected it for three weeks and it is part of the coming film, Swiss way to heaven. He had a big crew following and he was belayed by Nina Caprez. Noteworthy is that Cedric was one of the best lead competition climbers in the world in between 2001 to 2013. He has won one European Championship as well as two World Cups. The best result in a World Championship is #3. In other words, the 35-year-old should be considered as one of the best climbers in the world during the last 20 years.

Jan Hojer, who has qualified to Tokyo 2021, has during the last few days done three 8c+' as well as one 8c in Frankenjura; I bleed back, Hattori Hanzo, Madonna 2nd go and Lake District, 2nd go. (c) Jan Novak

How was it possible to do all those routes so quickly and what about the WC’s in 2020?
I felt in good shape after the lockdown and took advantage of all the free time I had. None of the routes I did so far felt too close to my limit and as much as I enjoy climbing on different routes every day, I’m starting to feel like I could try something harder soon. I think I might compete in Briancon, mainly because I have a few routes nearby that I’d like to climb but I won’t be competing in Asia or America.