Iziar Martinez, who had 8b as her personal best until six weeks ago, has done her third 8c, White Zombie in Baltzola after just two days projecting. The supersteep 30 meter route is famous for being the first 8c onsighted route in the world by Yuji Hirayama in 2004 and in 1999, it was the second 8c for a female done by Josune Bereziartu.
(c) Istrael Martinez
""I tried to do this route because I was close to this cave and a lot of people recommend it to me. It took me seven tries to send it during two days.My progress this summer was thanks to my coach and my families support and a little bit of my motivation 😂. Now I don't really have a project, I'm motivated to onsight. " One week ago, she did her first 8a+ onsight, Paideia in Rodellar and in the female ranking game, the 15-year-old is #9.

Felipe Camargo, who the last year did his first 9b, has done his second 8C, Direct Hit in Ubatuba. On his Insta he has published the video of the night session send.

" Full circle with this bloc! After doing the first ascent of Fortaleza v14 in 2014 i always believed that the Direct start was possible! Last year daniel woods made it possible doing first ascent and felt so good to put an end to this awesome boulder!! 5 really hard moves of 8b+ into 8a/+ end! Perfect straight 5 meters line by the ocean...All time!"

James Squire, who previously has done two 8C FAs has repeated his second, Power of Now in Magic Wod. "Unreal boulder! One session, tried the top section off a ladder then the first time I got through the bottom crux I climbed to the top. Maybe just 8B+? Big up Giuliano for developing and cleaning these mega lines and to Alex Kellas for the spot and support. It is a tall 60 degree roof which starts with a hard press move followed by a blind jump to a crimp. You then have to get set up for the final “superhero” move to the lip of the boulder. Definately one of the best boulders I have ever climbed! "

Stefano Ghisolfi has after some 12 days of projecting done the first pitch of Change 9a+ in Flatanger. He has now started to work the 9a extension to do the full 55 meter which Adam Ondra set up in 2012 as the first 9b+ in the world. "I tried a bit the second part and is still very hard, with many cruxes where is possible to fall, not hard like the first crux but there are more and I'll be more tired from the bottom. I'm staying until September 5th, maybe not enough for the 9b+. The cave is incredible, I tried few routes but every hold is an art piece, one of the best place to climb (above 8c)." (c) Sara Grippo

Jernej Kruder, bouldering World Cup winner in 2018, has done Umetnost 9a in Ter. "It was a long process due to very hot temps. I was already super close after a few sessions, but it was always too hot or humid. It was an old aid route rebolted by Rajko Zajc and FA by Domen Skofic few weeks ago."

So how come you did not go to Briancon and what about the Olympic qualification in Moscow?
I think one competition does not make a difference for me this year and I rather spend time outdoors. If Moscow will happen, I attend to go there.

If Moscow will not happen, the Slovenian will get the Olympic ticket as he was #16 in the Combined World Champion. If there will be a Euro Olympic qualification, the #1 ranked, excluding already qualified athletes and all athleyesfrom Italy, Germany and France who have reached max quota, will qualify to Tokyo. In other words, Kruder could make it as #9 if he has Ondra, Schubert, Mawem brothers, Ghisolfi, Hojer, Lopez and Megos in front of him.

Jose Luis Palao has done the FA of Santo celedon 9a in Ilarduia. In 2020, the 35-year-old has now done eight routes 9a and 9a+ out of which five FA's. If he had been part of the 8a ranking game, he would have been #2 just ahead of Adam Ondra. (c) Alfonoso Martinez

"This route was a pending project equipped by Dani Andrada and Ignacio Mulero. Without a doubt for me, the best year of my life as a climber, more experience and more motivation. I will never be at the level of Adam Ondra and not even very close. I think the ranking can be dangerous for the new generation to go for points and ranking, doing new routes, many of them are over graded to score more..."