Ali Hulk Extension 9a/+ by Enrique Gallardo
Enrique Gallardo has done Ali Hulk Extension which was the original 9a+ line Dani Andrada opened in the Ali Baba cave in Rodellar in 2007.

"When Dani made it, it was for sure 9a +. Now new methods have come out, I think the correct thing would be 9a/a+. But it is just my opinion. When Dani made it, there were no knee pads, which changes a bit like it is now. My process was faster than I expected. A great motivation for the following projects."

It should be mentioned that now there exist also a "total" extra extension but still graded 9a+. Furthermore, last year Enrique did another variation start that ticks in as 9a which could explain why he did it so fast. (c) Javi Pec

Semis Decide Girlsโ€™ U-19 Results
The U-19 girls' final at the Youth World Championship in Arco produced an exceptionally close contest, with four athletes scoring 34+. Anika Deubler claimed theโ€ฆ
Chanjin Jung defends his YWC title
Chanjin Jung, who also won the youth world championship in 2025, was the only climber to top the semifinal route, then went on to finish three holds ahead of thโ€ฆ
Change 9b+ by Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi has done the first repeat of Adam Ondra's Change 9b+ in Flatanger. Previously, the Italian has done one 9b+ and six 9b's. (c) Sara Grippo
"The battle is over, unexpectedly soon, a mental and physical fight that took me more than one month and two trips to Flatanger, it ended today with a bloodbath lasted more than one hour of climbing to complete the 185 moves and 55m of Change, the very first 9b+ in the world, bolted and climbed only by Adam Ondra in 2012. I feel relieved, tired and happy, and I enjoyed everything it came with this amazing (and frustrating) journey.

It is a King Line, as many routes in the Cave, and it's one of the longest I think. The moves are amazing and the rock too, especially the last meters that are the easiest of the route, the rock is amazing."


Did you do any specific training or replicas back home in Arco prior to your second trip?
I didn't have time. We just stayed one week at home between the two trips. Before the first trip I did some specific training for my shoulders because from Adam's video it was easy to understand that the shoulders were going to hurt.

How much help did you get from Ondraโ€™s video? Did you invent any new beta?
Adam's video helped me with some beta but I found most of the beta on my own because usually Adam's betas don't fit my style. Yes, better beta for me. I did a swing instead of putting high both feet as Adam did, I shared some video to compare my beta with Adam.

UPDATED: Fin de Ali Hulk extension 8c+ by Alizee Dufraisse
Alizee Dufraisse is working her way out in the Ali Baba cave in Rodellar having done two 8c+; Fin de Ali Hulk extension and Hulk extensiรณn total. Now she could add the sit start creating a 9a+ or 9b depending where she finish. The 33-year-old, who graduated from the University as well as got married to Dave Graham in 2020, is also projecting Autoengano 9a, in the picture (c) Guillermo Dominguez

The former French Champion in pole vault (4.35) must be considered as one of the best female climbers in the world as she previously has done two 9a's and and onsighted 14 routes 8a+ and harder. In bouldering she has done four 8B's. On the competition scene, she has won Arco Rock Masters as well as having been standing on an IFSC podium. "I had a little break of Autoengano 9a (like going once a week) since 2/3 weeks. As I tried it all summer in the heat I was feeling I needed to change a little. Also as we plan to go to Siurana after and Autoengono is a huge roof without crimps and not really resistant, I use the Ali baba cave like training as there are more crimps and the combinations are resistant. For the mind it s good too because you can try harder and harder links but with success all the time. From now I will try Autoengano more as I spent a lot of time on it all summer ๐Ÿ˜… it is a tricky one for me to! "

Fin de Ali Extension Sit Start 9a+ by Dave Graham (38)
Dave Graham, one of the leading rock climbers the last twenty years, reports on Insta, including a video, that he has done the second ascent of Jorge Diaz-Rullo's Fin de Ali Extension Sit Start 9a+ in Rodellar. "Basically if you see the cave, this is a left entrance to the ending. This adds 18 moves to the big undercling, and if you do Ali Hulk stand it adds about the same, but much easier climbing in my opinion."

Dave says he has started to work a new sit start more to the right. "The new low start seems to add around 8A+ into the 8B, with zero rest. The crux is the transition. Let's see if I can find better beta but it's seem pretty pure. And further, to the right, there are two boulders which seem around 8C.

The Ali Hulk 9b that Laura Rogora and Dani Fuertes did starts to the right in the cave. "What she did is 9b. No knee pads man...Crazzzzzy, 37 degrees. Nearly impossible for anyone hahahaha."

So to sum up. The Ali Hulk 9b that sit starts to the right in the cave begins with an 8B boulder followed with an 8c+ route. There are three harder entries that sit starts in the middle of the cave with project grades up to 8C. Adding an 8C boulder instead of the original 8B, would potentially make it possible to climb at least 9b+ in the Ali Baba cave!