Karoline Sinnhuber has done her 32nd 8A+, Sundance Sit in Zillertal. "Love-hate relationship with the upper part. I think this year was the first time I tried the boulder without a hurting knee. Made the heel sequence soooo much easier. Also found a new micro beta for the heel, which always popped when I went up for the long right move. "With this beta maybe only 8A?"

It should be mentioned that Sundance Sit has been recorded 35 times, and always as an 8A+, in the 8a database. Four climbers have marked it "Soft" and three "Hard". In the 8a ranking game, the Austrian is #8. (c) Paul Lewandowski

Davide Picco, who started climbing at age 19, has done Omen Nomen 9a in Arco. The 28-year-old has now done six 9a's and one 9a+, all in Arco. He explains that he is working full time as a welder and have not had time to travel that much, besides that he loves Arco and it's surroundings.

"It took me several attempts to figure out the best beta to reach the chain mostly because of the last boulder at the very top of the route. Then, once I thought I had found my way, the weather changed: it started raining and being freezing cold, I had sore skin and there was always something wrong in the universe that stopped me from giving my all. I think I fell about ten times in front of the top hold 😂but last week I was finally able put it all together. Even though it was a harsh journey I enjoyed climbing something almost (! ) vertical 😂. It was useful indeed.!

Jakob Schubert has, overall during the last twelve years, been the best male competition climber in the world. In total, he has made the podium 57 times out of which 48 in Lead. In 2011, he won seven straight WCs, and in total he has won 21 times. The Austrian qualified to the Olympics by getting the Combined silver in the 2019 World Championship, where he also got the silver in Bouldering and the bronze in Lead. (c) KVÖ/Heiko Wilhelm

How do you plan your season before the Olympics?
Regarding comps I plan to do quite a few Bouldering Worldcups before the Olympics since I still feel like the comp experience helps a ton in that discipline. So probably I‘ll do all except the two in the US. Then Lead in Innsbruck and Villars and maybe Chamonix. Training is focused on Bouldering right now and probably around the end of May I‘ll switch my focus on Lead although I‘ll still try to keep my bouldering game especially trying to keep doing some comp style things closer to the Olympics. Speed I keep doing two short sessions a week all the time.

What is your PB in Speed and how do you train for this discipline?
My personal best in speed is from last year july 6,82. and I hope I can get to 6,5 until the Olympics. Focus is mainly on doing rund now and sometimes on some sequences where I feel like I can still improve my technique 😉

What is your goal for Tokyo and who are the main contenders for the medals?
My goal is of course to win a medal, preferably gold 😜 The combined format is very unpredictable even more so with today’s boulder- and routesetting, but I would say the huge favorite is Tomoa and obviously Adam is a big contender as well followed by myself 🤔 But probably almost every athlete has a chance to be on the podium especially since the bouldering wall, I think, there is only one overhang, one slab and a big vertical part, so very slabby design.

Will you do any special training for the expected heat in Tokyo?
Since our competition will be in the afternoon I think it will be bearable. But I will try to train in similar conditions sometimes and be prepared with some cooling utilities. Luckily I prefer to climb in warmer conditions anyways 😉

Staša Gejo, a close runner-up in the Moscow Euro Champ Olympic qualification, has done two 8A's in Frankenjura in just one session each: Fontain Head and Mr. Bombastic.

What are your next plans including the comp scene?
Because all projects went down too quickly. I am going to try some 8A+. Currently aiming for Backgammon in Frankenjura, but also planning to get back to my rope projects from last year, when temperatures rise.

I feel good now, mostly training for Meiringen. Hoping that other comps in spring don't get cancelled. The biggest even is the WCH in Russia in September. Trying to get outside as much as trainings and weather allow it.

Joshua Fourteau has done Akira which was put up by Fred Rouhling in 1995. The 18-year-old needed only five sessions and he confirms the 9a grade by Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez who did the first repeats last November. "he first part is the most physical in 8b (a long 7C+ boulder) I would say until a bad rest in full roof, and the continuation is less intense in 8a (a long 7B+ boulder) until the end. " It should be noted that Joshua did follow Seb and Lucien's example to not use knee pads and, in fact, he did not even use any kneebars and few toe- or heelhooks. More info on Fanatic Climbing.