Jonathan Siegrist, who previously has done 55 routes 9a to 9b, has done the FA of Black Hole Sun in 5G. This was the 35-year-old's 17th FA 9a and harder.

" I bolted this route at the end of last season - in October. It is next to my route, Nu World. This year June was insanely hot in Southern Nevada! So I was quite nervous I wouldn't finish it before the full on summer.

One of my harder FA's and also one of my best I'd say. Intense strength endurance for the first 60 feet or so and then a 60 foot 8b+ on top of that. Quite hard at 9a, felt harder than some 9a+ to me, but hard seems to be the theme up here and I'm sick of grading stuff so this will do for now. Next week I will get another big project cleaned up and ready for the fall season...”

Janja Garnbret and Alberto Gines López won the semifinal. The biggest surprise was that Stefano Ghisolfi ended #11 and did not qualify to the finals starting at 20.00.

Yoshiyuki Ogata was the only one to top the first boulder by some spectacular campus moves. On the second boulder, Simon Lorenzi set some kind of record. First, he failed the initial double dyno, nine times and then with 13 seconds left he tried it again and made it. Looking over his shoulder, he saw that there were just a few second left and grabbed the zone and immediately made the double dyno to the top and stuck it. The last boulder was basically just a traverse with no handholds before a dyno to the zone followed by another dyno to the top.

Ogata could secure the gold by topping and was very close to get the zone. Then Tomoa had the chance to win and made the zone but could not stick the dyno to the last hold. Last out was Kokoro Fujii, who had not made any zone, making the first top of the boulder easily on his second try, ǵetting the bronze, based on countback to the semi.

1. Yoshiyuki Ogata JPN 22 (c) Vladek Zumr
2. Tomoa Narasaki JPN 13
3. Kokoro Fujii JPN 11 (2+2)
4. Nicolai Uznik 11 (2+2)
5. Simon Lorenzi 11 (10)
6. Nathaniel Coleman USA 1

It should be mentioned that they only climbed three boulders in the final as it was delayed an hour due to heavy rain. The organisation worked very hard to make this possible and once again Innsbruck delivered a great competition week.

Midways into the fourth and last female boulder, heavy rain started and later it was announced that the fourth boulder was cancelled. Janja Garnbret once again made the boulders looking easy doing them all on her first try and was only challenged by Natalia Grossman needing nine attempts.

1. Janja Garnbret SLO 33 (3)
2. Natalia Grossman USA 33 (9)
3. Stasa Gejo SRB 13
4. Akiyo Noguchi JPN 12 (1)
5. Futaba Ito JPN 12 (3)
Miho Nonaka did not participate due to a knee injury she got on the last semi boulder. (c) Vladek Zumr

Great semifinals where Kokoro Fujii and Janja Garnbret were the only ones doing all four boulders. Among the male, total domination by Japan with seven in Top-16 and all Top-3. Also among the female, Japan got three into the Top-6 final. Interesting is that only three females Olympians and two males Olympians made it to the finals.

Finalists for tonight 18.00: Garnbret, Ito, Nonaka, Grossman, Noguchi and Gejo.
Male at 20.00: Fujii, Narasaki, Ogata, Coleman, Uznik and Lorenzi.

Complete Results on "IFSC WC Series" App.