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Michaela Kiersch, who previously has done eight 8c+', reports on Insta that she has repeated Chris Sharma's Dreamcatcher 9a in Squamish after just five days. The doctoral student tried it three years ago but could not do all moves but during this trip she did all moves on her first day. (c) The Foxes

What was the key for sending it so quickly?
I trained specifically for this route for weeks. Focusing on increasing endurance, finger strength, and campusing power.

What was the crux for you? Did you have to invent a new beta being shorter (152 cm) than the previous repeaters?
The crux for me was the final boulder problem. My beta is relatively similar to everyone else, maybe just higher feet.

Nicholas Milburn has done Moonshine 9a in Wild Iris. It was put up by BJ Tilden in 2012 and everyone that has start rated it have given it five stars. (c) Zach Joing

"Such good rock! The movement is really fun and the holds are actually pretty good. They are just far apart, don't fit very many fingers, and the feet are poor. Almost sent in 4 tries in two days, but punted way up high. Did it in 9 tries in 3 days."

Vadim Timonov has repeated Alexey Rubtsov's Whiplash 8C in Lietlahti Park. "This is a sit-down start to an 8B/+. After I did the first part, it took me four attempts to get through it entirely. But I did everything on different days since the boulder loads the biceps very much."

Next Friday, Vadim will compete in the World Championship qualification in Mosow.

How come you chose outdoors as part of your preparation for the world championship?
No, this is not my preparation. It was my last outdoor session before the world championship. I just don't want to waste perfect weather🤣. Our season is short and every such day is valuable.

Mike Foley has made the FA of Spirit Quest 9a in Squamish, which is a nine bolt direct start to an existing 8b+. Originally it was bolted by Tom Wright who kept it as a closed project until this summer. Ben Harnden was also trying it and later did the second ascent. Climbing.com has the story and we we added one question to Mike.

How was your mental game before and during the ascent?
Before any send, I like to keep the mood light and not have expectations for myself. When I feel close to sending or keep falling on the same moves I find it helps to change up my routine a little bit. Try a different warm-up, climbing at a different time of day etc. It’s easy to train yourself to keep falling at the same moves when every part of your routine is exactly the same.

During the send, especially on long routes, I try to focus only on the moves directly in front of me and not think too far ahead. I try to be focused and present in that exact moment in the route, not the route as a whole.

Neil Gresham, who previously has done two E10' has done the FA of Lexicon E11 7a at Pavey Park, which is equivalent with an 8b+ R trad. If you fall at the final 7C boulder crux at the top you face a 25-meter fall with a risk of slamming into the wall. UKC has the full length interview and actually it seems the 50-year-old's approach can be compared to how dedicated Adam Ondra was projecting Silence 9c.

We are talking about several different coaches like mental, trad, ballet, physiotherapist, nutrition etc. Neil also did also practice falling. "I made it to the fourth-from-last move and bailed out. I looked down to see the rope flapping and looping downwards in a huge arc and there was plenty of time to take things in as the air rushed across my face. It was the biggest whipper I've ever taken..."

It should be noted that the British E-grade, is supposed to estimate how hard and dangerous a trad route is to onsight. On the upper scale, it is very hard to make such an evaluation and that is why we have also added the other trad grading system, where an R added, stands for Risk for injury.