Sébastien Berthe, famous for all his big wall adventures, has done La Rambla (9a+) in Siurana. "This route has made me dream for 20 years and I am super proud to have climbed it. It is my second route of that grade and it makes me really psyched for my upcoming projects.

In January, I spent 3 weeks in Siurana trying hard on that route (had 14 sessions and about 25 tries in total on it). In the first few sessions, I was destroyed by the long effort the route required and I could barely do two tries in one day. I would end the session exhausted with multiple holes on my skin. I could not even support two days in a row. However, I improved really fast on the route. Day after day, I was feeling better and better and kept falling higher and higher. After a few sessions, I could arrive at the final boulder, but it is where everything starts on this route. The mental battle started there as well: for a week, I kept falling at the very same spot, on the same move again and again. I could not hold that pocket and always fell with the feeling of being fresh and not having fought enough. On the victory go though, I gave it all, held the pocket power-screaming! Things were not over: there are still a few hard moves to go to the chain. With the pressure and sun at that time of the day, I took the wrong foothold and almost fell on the very last hard move. I also took advantage of my good shape to climb La Reina Mora (9a), in the picture, and Chikane (8c+). Super happy with this as well!"

What do you think has been the key to your success and progression over the past year?
I moved to Fontainebleau some months ago and for me, bouldering is the key to progress! Bouldering more and more makes me stronger and stronger even for long routes like la Rambla.

Michaela Kiersch reports on Insta that she has done La Rambla (9a+) in Siurana. Impressively, she projected it for just ten sessions. (c) Colette McInerney

In April, the 28-year-old graduated as a Doctor in hand therapy. Last year, she was also the only female climber to complete both a 9a and an 8B+ boulder interview. Overall, her combined ticklist makes her a contender for the best female outdoor climber as of now. At the age of 15, she made her debut in the World Cup and was #22. The next year, she was #18 in a Lead World Cup.

What was your first impression of La Rambla?
On my first try I did all the moves and felt super optimistic, but there were a few sections that felt super difficult and I was nervous about being able to link them together for a send.

Did video footage of La Rambla help you refine your beta?
I watched every video available and also had a really psyched group of friends here who are also trying the route. Having others to climb with and share beta was super crucial for me. There are a few big moves - I ended up jumping in the middle and this is the section I fell on the most, maybe 5 tries.

In the end, I stayed really positive and once I stuck the jump the first time I linked up to the top crux - that’s when I knew for sure it was possible. I fell there once more and then sent the next try.

What did your training and preparation for this trip look like?
I did a really regimented training block of about 6 weeks following my trip to the RRG (Red River Gorge). It included moonboard, kilterboard, circuits, and hangboarding. And, sauna every day!

You've had quite a successful year of climbing! What do you attribute most to your success?
You can’t fill every bucket at once. I shifted my priorities to focus more on climbing as I finished my education and I think being able to spend more time and energy (on climbing) is a major factor. I have a lot of positivity in my life at the moment and it’s giving me momentum.

Fabrizio Peri, who did his third 9a in 2020, has done the third ascent of It segid nard (8c+) in . Laura Rogora did the FA of the very steep link-up in 2017 and the year later, Adam Ondra did the second ascent. The 51-year-old started climbing in 1979 and he did his first 8c at age 40 after having stopped bodybuilding.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying the route in April last year but then temperatures rose and I returned to the cave in November trying the route a couple of times a week.....until yesterday I succeeded! I'm very happy that I still get to be lucky enough to have fun with these grades. Lately, I've had to change my training method by reducing dry strength workouts because they are very traumatic, but I've replaced them with maximum bouldering sessions for my level. I am also very attentive to recovery and the day before climbing on rock I always insert some aerobic work. I always maintain a controlled diet and when I'm close to sending a route I reduce even more because 1 or 2 kg less makes the difference for me, after all, I know that afterwards I'll be rewarded with a nice sweet Italian 'tiramisu' very caloric 😁.

How do you manage climbing at such a high level at age 51?
It's very simple. It all comes from my great passion for climbing and the pleasure of training at the same time. I've always thought that the most beautiful routes are the most difficult ones, which is why I've always tried to improve. So it was a slow process that led me to understand myself to better manage training and climbing days. My biggest goal is always to repeat important routes where the strongest have passed. I would like to do it in Spain but my work and family commitments don't allow me to do it so I focus on areas close to home. I can train every day, sometimes even two sessions a day, alternating resistance with bouldering. I manage to climb about two times a week and do about two 5/6 day climbing trips a year.

What's your occupation?
I am a soldier of the Guardia di Finanza, and I work as a sports and climbing instructor.

Sebastien BOUIN reports on Insta that he has done the FA of Mar de Bering 9a/+ in Meio Mango. "We are always amazed to be in a such beautiful place." Here is a recent interview with Seb, from last week, who in 2022 did four routes 9b/+. (c) Clarisse Bompard

Meio Mango is a hidden seacliff pearl located some 45 min south of Lisbon. Here is how Andre Neres described the crag back in 2019 when he had done the FA of Filipinos (9a). "Meio Mango is easily one of the best unknown crags in Europe, it has 10 years of existence, it is a seacliff 45 min south of Lisbon on a place called Cabo Espichel, over 150 routes together with a new sector we are bolting called Atlântida. Plenty of easy and medium routes and a lot of potential for hard stuff. With breathtaking sunsets, no phone connection, no human constructions, and dolphins cruising around frequently, it is a paradise by the sea."