Loic Zehani has done the FA of Mossoul (9b) in Orgon. The 21-year-old has previously put up four 9b's and five 9a+' at the same crag. (c) Lunar Fox

"30 hard moves on a big overhang then an easy wall for the finish. In fact, it's a succession of 4 boulder sections without rest. A large part of Le poisson pilote (9a+) then a new and hard exit into the right. The movements are very varied and the climb is extremely physical. It's hard for me to give a grade to each bouldery sequence but I'll try: 8A/A+ (no rest) 7C+ (very bad rest) 8A hard (no rest) 7B and a 6c for the finish. Nowadays my hardest route and after "mature" reflections I propose 9b/b+ for this route. So happy to climb this stamina power test."

Stefano Carnati, who previously has done five 9a+, has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi's Erebor (9b) in Arco. "Unforgettable moment, good flow!"

The PhD student in environmental sciences at the University of Como, a three hour drive from Arco, comments on Insta, "...sometimes the weekend warrior mode has its pros. In this situation it definitely gave me time to recognize a better approach forward by analyzing every finest detail in such a way that I could work on my weaknesses during my training routine and possibly be gradually more complete. Since the climb was at my very limit, after each session I was always telling myself that every slightest thing I would improve was ok to keep the process on."

When did you start trying it and how many sessions in total?
I started trying it seriously in November during the weekends (1 or two days). I already had a few sessions a few years ago after Ste Ghiso's ascent. Around 20 sessions in total.

Cody Roth has made the FA of Flipping the Bird (9a) in Arco. On Insta he comments, ”The name is inspired by both the crux move that tore a huge hole in my middle finger, and by those far braver than me on the front lines in Ukraine and Iran, as well as the LGBTQ community here in Italy that stands up to Meloni, her goons and her party’s absurd policies and dangerous ideology." (c) Fabian Poels

How does it feel stepping up your game and doing your third 8c+ and harder, at 39, in the last month?
I did my own on research and I read, on the internet, that a segment of the population spontaneously combusts when they turn 40, so I'm anxiously trying to get it all in before October, just in case ;-). Honestly, I'm just trying to take it in stride. If it's all I get this year, I'm more than okay with that. In mid January I took four weeks off due to chronic elbow tendonitis, I didn't think then that I'd be where I'm at now.

What are your strengths and talents making this possible? You work a full-time management position at Vertical-life and climb just three days a week?
Three if I'm lucky! Maybe my talent is not overthinking it and being comfortable not being in control. The night before I did this climb, we had friends over for dinner, I probably had one cocktail more than what would have been ideal, and I went to bed later than I should have. I wasn't even sure we were going to Grottosauro the next day. Growing up, my mom always told me showing up is the most important part. I didn't believe her when I was younger, but now I see what she means. Oftentimes you get something over the line in spite of and not because of, and the less you worry about yourself and every little detail, the more open you are to every possibility. As for my work, I'm really lucky to work with an amazingly talented and kind group. My work keeps me balanced and it feels good to contribute and to be appreciated beyond just climbing. Vertical-Life also allocate some flexibility in my schedule, so I'm lucky in that regard too.

What motivates you in climbing?
I think it's the friendships, curiosity, surprise and discovery that keeps me going.

When is your next vacation and where? Is it about time to raise the bar to 9a+?
I'm going back to the US to see family in May, but I probably won't have much time to climb. I'd love to paddle some rivers in Scotland later this summer and my wife and I have a couple summer concerts on our radar. I wouldn't rule out going back to the Frankenjura and trying Action Directe a little more, but it's a little hard to line up with the weather there. There's plenty of things around Arco and Italy that give me my climbing fix. As for 9a+, I might have already done that with my FA of, M.E. I eat Dust, six years ago. Doing another would be nice, but it's not a must for me. Honestly, if you told me I could either do Action Directe or a 9a+, I'd probably choose Action Directe; and I'd still view that as raising my bar.


You bolted this one ground up? Is there still potential around Arco?
I did. I'm a bolting dilettante, but I enjoy going ground-up whenever feasible, and contributing where I can. The 8mm removable bolts make it a lot easier and safer nowadays, and the hole they leave is nearly invisible in steep terrain. I was hiking with my dog this winter, when I noticed that maybe there could be just enough features to add a line where I did. Around Arco, there's plenty of potential still. It's just a matter of hiking and discovering something completely new, or coming back to known places like this with a fresh set of eyes.

Emilie Gerhardt, who last year completed roughly ten boulders 8A and harder, reports on Insta that she has done Taijutsu (8A+) in Valle Bavona. (c) Julius Westphal

Can you tell us more about the trip and the 8A+ ascent?
Unfortunately, we only had four climbing days in total. Here are so many good-looking lines, so it’s hard to choose which one I‘d like to try first :)“Taijutsu” sums up my style quite well as I like steep boulders with many moves. After checking out all the moves I sent it directly.

Fabrice Landry has done the FA of Le consommateur (9a) in Manjo-Carn. The 32-year-old has previously done four FAs 8c to 9a in the same crag. (c) Arthur Delicque

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Happy to have succeeded in my 9a training path. This is a variation of my main objective, Chicken deluxe (9a+) which Lucien Martinez did the FA of last December. It shares crux two and three but avoids the first pitch estimated at 8c and replaces it with a 7c by starting in a neighbouring route.

I will take the opportunity to communicate the potential of this sector, which with 6 routes in the 9th grade without counting the variants has enough to attract the best and deserves to be better known. Not to mention the latest addition, a new natural 9b project, no reinforcement, no sika, nothing at all for 25 intense movements without rest!

Roman Alexander Hofmann has done Activate the Hyperdrive (9a) in Wedderburn Cave. Video

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The line is located in Sydney & in one of the best roofs in the country. The cave was first established in 2011 with mostly power endurance boulders. Only one hard V11/8A short boulder existed there at the time. I have been climbing at the cave every winter (4-6 months) since 2017. Here I have consistently pushed and developed my climbing.

One of the hardest lines before "Activate the Hyperdrive" was Turbo Deluxe (8B+)4, which I established a few years ago. "Activate the Hyperdrive" adds a long V11/8A intro and has 44+ moves total. This is why it's more of a route at 9a. Boulder grade would be V14/15 (8B+/C). Super crazy power endurance. The line took me 2 more seasons to complete after Turbo Deluxe.

Can you give us more details about the cave?
Wedderburn Cave is located approximately 70km south of Sydney Central. It is still one of the suburbs of Sydney. There are about 20 individual lines from V7-V14 (7B - 8B+). The rest are link-ups, combining some of these lines into Mega Lines. There are no eliminates as all the sections are far enough apart to be able to be climbed completely separately and often also in reverse. A truly unique spot.

Two weeks ago, Chris Sharma, 41, made the FA of Sleeping Lion (9b+) in Siurana after projecting it for one and a half years. This was his first cutting-edge redpoint since he did the FA of El Bon Combat (9b) in 2015. Photographer Rikki Giancola has, since November, travelled with him from Barcelona to Siurana, doing long day trips, twice a week.

"He is a motivation machine. Toni Arbones was his belayer and mental coach. Chris fell on the same move I think 15 times and that move was near the very end of the route. Arbones helped him a lot with dealing with the fact that for some moments he thought he couldn’t do it. [The day he did it] Was epic and all the climbers on the Pati in Siurana were shouting and celebrating with Chris.” We recently caught up with Chris and he was kind enough to give us the inside scoop below.

Where do you get the motivation to keep pushing hard, being over 40, and how does that impact your daily life?
Well, I’ve been climbing about 30 years. And even though I’ve embarked on new chapters in my life with family and business etc, climbing is still a huge part of me and something that gives me so much joy, especially when I’m able to climb with good sensations on amazing routes like Sleeping Lion.

How did you find the line and how much time do you spend searching for new lines?
I think every time I was in Siurana over the last 15 years I would always look at that section of the wall and dream if it might be climbable, then one day I took the time to put some bolts in to have a closer look and I was pleasantly surprised to find a a perfect line just barely there.

What was hardest thing about projecting Sleeping Lion?
The route pushed me in many ways. Physically of course but also mentally and emotionally. It’s one thing to feel capable of something but it’s a whole other thing to restructure your life around an objective like that and bring it into reality. It’s definitely more challenging balancing all the elements of life these days but climbing is such a grounding activity for me so it felt really good to make the time for this.

Specifically though the last hard move of the route, move #54 or something…. I fell off there 16 times over three months. So there was a big psychological element in being able to endure that and not lose hope. Very happy it finally clicked.

What do you think was the most critical thing that made it all come together?
I guess, I worked the route into submission. In that process I also worked my own ego into submission as well. When I got to the point that I didn’t even really care anymore I was able to let go and go all out a little bit harder.

Do you have more "Sleeping Lions" on the horizon?
I have several other routes, multi pitch and DWS in mind but I’m also happy to float for a while until the next thing captivates me in an organic way without forcing the agenda.

Chris started making headlines at age 14 when he won the USA nationals in 1996. The next year he won silver at the World Championship and then he won his first-ever Lead World Cup. From 2000 to 2004, he did one Boulder WC per year and his worst result for four straight years was bronze.

Taking a look at everything he has accomplished on rock over the past nearly 30 years is nothing but astounding.
1996 SuperTweak (8c) at age 15
1997 Necessary Evil (8c+) FA
2001 Biographie 9a+ FA
2004 Practice of the Wild (8C) FA
2007 Es Pontas 9a+ DWS FA
2008 Jumbo Love (9b) FA
2013 La Dura dura (9b+)
2023 Sleeping Lion (9b+) FA

Chris has done nine routes 9b and harder, out of which he has bolted each of them, and made eight FAs. When it comes to 9a+, he has done twelve, out of which ten are FAs. When it comes to onsight climbing, he has done seven 8c's and his latest was in 2022. Bouldering, he has also put up a couple 8C's.

Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen, who previously has done five 8C's, has sent La Révolutionnaire (8C+) in Fontainebleau, wearing only one shoe. ”On to the next one!” Here is the Insta. Michiel projected it together with Tim Reuser who has also completed it, Insta video.

Can you tell us more about doing your first 8C+?
In January I went on a quick ‘recon mission’ with my friend Tim Reuser, both of us did all the moves on the first session. That made me really motivated to go for this one. The hard part of la Révolutionnare consists of 11 handmoves and about the same number of footmoves. So doing all single moves is great, but it’s still far away from sending. Having a project for motivation is great, but having the same project as your training buddy is even better! With full on motivation Tim and I tried to up our game, great sessions in the gym!

In March I went back to Font with La Revolutionnaire in my mind. Owww man, I was close! With just a few days more I think it could have worked out. The conditions where just amazing and the learning curve was steeper than expected. My goal of this trip was to make some good links, but I thought I would not be ready yet to do full on send tries. I exceeded my expectations and could do multiple send tries, even coming all the way to the end. Also shout out to my buddy Tim for sending, pure motivation there!

Now I went back for just 2 (climbing) days. Fully focussed on the send. It happened on the last day just before I had to go back home. Just before the send I had my best go, falling on the last move. I thought it was it, the tank was empty. But somehow it all worked out and I got the send. This little trip was a gamble with the weather, all paid off perfectly.

Why did you opt for just one climbing shoe?
This was the first time I used the barefoot technique. At first, I tried it with 2 climbing shoes and with different beta. Double toe hook into bicycle. But this transition was super hard for me. I am not so comfortable with toe hooks and I was afraid that I would suffer a lot from slipping toe hooks with this beta. Then I saw a video of the Charles of the FA. He (obviously) does i full barefoot and this gave me new ideas. The next time I was trying I was again suffering from slipping toehooks, so I tried some different things. This resulted in trying with just one shoe, that way you can squeeze your big toe in a pocket. And instead of a double toehook into a bicycle I can get this bicycle from the beginning. That way I can rely more on core tension and not solely on toehook power.

With the new beta, I felt way better in the section, which gave me a lot of confidence. But I had to find a new way for the beginning because I used to do that with a right toe hook and that would be super painful. I found a new way with a kind of heel toe cam. Luckily the rest of the footholds didn't give any problems.

How can you explain having progressed for so many years like a late bloomer?
Still not peaking 😉. Maybe in a few years. Hard to tell. I guess I am still hungry for more and it helps a lot I train with a young and strong crew. Training together is always a huge part in my progress. Spraywalling a muerte together.

What do you mean by, ”On to the next?”
The plans to late a look at Big Island assis together with Tim is already there...Let's see, why not? As I said, this is not my peak yet ;-)

Roser Giralt, slab master,La Pedriza, Talo Martin better half, has done the FFA of Inuit (8b+). It was put up in 2011 by Aitor Bárez and the holds consist of crystals, smears and a few micro pockets.

What was your previous PB?
I did a 7b route in February and a 7a onsight, both slabs as well. Normally I climb routes 1 day a week in the gym and one day on the weekend, mostly bouldering cause it's easier with the kids. Although I did harder problems in the past, I climb in the 7A range.

How have you been training in 2023?
Not training as people train. I got a yearly membership at the gym to force me to go and I climb with a few friends but always for fun. I guess I'm lucky with my finger strength due to my job sewing and designing clothes.

What's your climbing background?
I have been climbing for 18 years and mostly bouldering. I did a 7C boulder 10 years ago-ish when I had my first daughter, which was also the first female 7C of La Pedriza.

What made you decide to suddenly start working an 8b+?
It was when I turned 39 in January 2023 that I looked back and saw that I spent 3 years fully dedicated to my entrepreneurial work. It has absorbed a lot of my time and now it gives me the time invested back. I wanted to prove to myself that everything I learned in bouldering over the years was applicable to a project of this magnitude. The thing is that I just wanted to try an 8a or so... My partner teased me telling me it was 7c... So I did it on top rope and I only hung once because my feet hurt. When he took me down he said, - Roser, you've done an 8b+ just for fun! Then on my second try on lead that day I fell on the easy 7a section having passed the crux due to my legs shaking a lot cause I was too nervous... So the send would have been a matter of time and tries.

What are you motivated for next? Casual climbing weekends or going for an 8c?
After having reached the highest women's grade in bouldering a decade ago and the highest women's grade in sport climbing La Pedriza nowadays, I would love to be able to seek my highest grade on MP climbing. Although combining MP climbing with kids is more difficult, I will surely end up trying an 8c and bouldering every weekend sooner. During this process, we had the support and help from many friends and this send is also theirs 😜