Ryan Sklenica, who last December did his first 9a, with the FA of Fiction, reports on Instagram that he has done the FA of Hartkäse (9a+) at Nowra. It starts up a 7a+, followed by a hard boulder crux, a long traverse and then finishes up another route. Interestingly it is the first proposed 9a+ in Australia. (c) Lachlan Norris

Clément Lechaptois has done Child of Hell (8C) at the Gottardo / Gotthardpass. "[An] Amazing problem from Shawn. Very techy and pretty unique style." (c) Nicolò Sartirana

The 30-year-old has done ten boulders 8C or harder and he is having his best year ever, which culminates seven years of non-stop progress. In the 8a ranking game, he is #7.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I first tried the boulder one day on the rope when it was still a project in 2020. I figured out some methods but couldn't return to it that season. Then Shawn did it in the summer of 2021. I came back at it this summer and felt better on the moves and positions. I tried it one more day in pretty bad conditions and fell at the last move once, as close as it gets. I did it on the first try the following session, the conditions were perfect that day.

Alex Barrows has done the FA of The Last Nacho (9a) in Raven Tor. The 36-year-old, who previously has logged seven 9a's, is having his best year ever. (c) Dave Parry

"Belly Full of Nachos (long 8B/+) to an ok rest at its finishing jugs, then head left along the lip via 2 bolts (~6C?) to good knees at the start of Mecca. Up Mecca (8b+), then quest exhaustingly onwards to finish up Crucifixion to the top of the crag (~8a/+ from Mecca chains?). ~45m of climbing taking in quite a few different styles, and surely the longest bit of climbing you can get out of the tor without getting very traversey! Maths says that the top part "shouldn't" add to the difficulty, but it doesn't feel like that - the extra stress, exhaustion, and getting baked by the sun made it a battle from rest to rest, and definitely the most traumatic and, of course, most enjoyable part of the route. I guess it must be the hardest piece of climbing I've done to date, though unfortunately it's not the most classic 😂. (Aka "The Last Supper, brought to you by Taco Bell's halal range")."

Martina Demmel, who was #26 in the Bern WCH, has done La Cabane au Paradis (8c+) in Rawyl. ” Battle against the heat with sweat running all over my face at the top but another good reminder what's possible when the mind is calm & peaceful! Fell in love with the resistency lower part what makes me curious to someday invest more time in "... au Canada". Quick progress resulted in an unexpected 4th try send with the best support by Chris & Leni!! Such a magic moment: we can't force/wait for it, we can only live & enjoy it!” (c) Chris Frick

The day after she onsighted her eleventh route 8b or harder, Gaucho (8b). ” Wooow I'm still shocked & in disbelief about onsighting this bouldery gem! Especially proud of sticking the jump at the top with only a little bit of hesitation;) amazing rock in the middle! Special thx to Chris for cheering me up all the way:)”

Are you 100 % recovered from your latest injury?
Regarding my broken wrist this winter, it's been 4 months now since I was allowed to climb again and I'm very relieved how well it was playing along the last months with almost no pain and consistent improvements😁📈! I'd say that I can do everything with it again but the strength level in the wrist and the whole arm isn't the same yet again and I've developed some kind of fear of getting injured again, so this was probably the hardest part to overcome😅.

What's next on your radar?
Now I'm getting back on plastic for the final preparations for the last 2 Lead WC's and then, it's already time to go back to school for the next 4 months🧚‍♀️🤓.

Sébastien Berthe, one of the very best multi-discipline climbers in the world, has onsighted Ajo Crudo (8c) in Cicera. (c) Christoph Muster

"Fighting my way up this infinite crimpy route with the cheering of good friends was definitely a big moment! This means a lot to me: onsight climbing is a discipline that I truly love and I have always done it a lot! The onsight game is all about finding a good balance between the risks to take and the good beta to have. In order to take the super fast decisions needed, I have the feeling I had to get together all I've learned as a climber, thanks to the km of rocks I've eaten 🥰

Last few weeks and months, I struggled a bit with my climbing: lack of motivation, low shape, quest for meaning... But for two weeks, everything has slowly come back! Now, the least I can say is that I feel back on track.

8c onsight was definitely a big goal of mine for 2023. In the past, I onsighted 8b+ and flashed an 8c (Mind control in Oliana), but onsighting one felt like another game: it's so much about grasping the right moment on the perfect route. During the last two weeks, I tried on 4 different routes and was quite far each time. But somehow, I knew I was getting closer and was capable of doing it!

Ajo Crudo was a really good candidate for an onsight attempt for me: long, crimpy, okay rest between the section, slightly overhanging... My perfect style! I took all the info I could from the ground (thinking about every single detail: shoes, kneebar, clipping), I climbed well, took some risks, had some chance and fought hard. I took the opportunity and truly didn't let it go even if my body has wanted to quit multiple times during the ascent!"

What is coming up next?
All I can tell you is that Rayu and Orbayu are on the list, let's see if it can work!