Mona Kellner, with four 8c’s under her belt, has completed Der Schwarze Schwan (8c) in Ötztal.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
It was the first hard route I tried when I moved to Innsbruck October 24. I really enjoyed the route from the first day on. It has two boulders with a good rest in between. The first on follows a narrow crimpy finger crack with wired shoulder move and the second crux are some far moves mit bad high feet. The first time I tried the route, I had a knee injury and couldn’t do one move with a heel in the lower crux. I connected the rest fast but had to give it up for that season. Then in spring before I made it back to the route I had to deal with a inflamed finger for some month. In November I finally felt fit again and got close on my second day on it but the next week the first snow arrived and I had to wait four months to try it again.

This weekend, I took advantage of the early warm spring temperatures and went back there. I knew I can send it fast but the first try didn’t feel so good. In the second attempt I struggled a bit in the first boulder but after the rest, the second boulder felt easy and I was not pumped at all and made it nervously to the top.

What are your plans for the spring?
I have I few routes in mind around Innsbruck but haven’t tried them yet and I wanna go to arco a few times.

Jonathan Siegrist, who is approaching 100 routes 9a and beyond, has done Trofeo dell'Adriatico (9a+) in Arco. ”What a route!!! I tried it on our first trip to Arco and fell in love, but the temps were just too damn cold so I gave up. Been on my mind ever since! Very demanding and intense route overall. Such an awesome fight after sticking the crux. The resting knee didn't work for my shindex so I found a crappy rest slightly below same as Laura.”

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
It was the first route I tried in Arco on our first trip here at the end of 2024. I totally fell in love - it's a really special route and such a cool, intense style. Unfortunately after a couple days the weather got very cold (this was in late November), and I found it really hard to rest before the crux (the kneebar rest does not work for my size) and was always entering the crux with frozen hands. I gave up and decided to check out some other routes. Since then I have been wanting to try it again so badly! We arrived a week ago and I went to work on it again in much nicer temperatures.

We are here in Arco for another month, and I have so much to do. We just love it here.

Enrique Beltrán Blasco, who did his first two 9a+’ last autumn, has completed The journey (9a+) in Margalef after some 15 sessions over three years.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I’ve been climbing in Margalef all year. I feel very fit and adapted to this type of climbing. I tried this route last year, combining it with other projects, and this year has been the first season I’ve seriously attempted it. Two key holds broke at the crux, making it more difficult. The main objective remains the same: The full journey (9b).

Zan Lovenjak Sudar, who was #23 in the world championship in 2023, has sent Sanjski par extension (9a) in Mišja Peč.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
After figuring out the method there was a hold brake in the middle of the route making a knee-bar rest impossible and clipping position much harder. After some generous work by Zbizi reinforcing the part of the hold that was left and replacing some old bolts it took me 5 sessions to finish it off. So 7 sessions in total.

Can you say something about your climbing background?
My climbing background is mostly doing IFSC comps up to 2025, after becoming a dad I am mostly challenging my climbing on rock and specifically training for outdoor projects.

And if I can add something I would please climbers to not climb on wet rock especially tufas. (Reason for hold break in Sanjski par). Be patient and wait for good conditions.

Alex Megos, who made history in 2013 by becoming the first to onsight a 9a, has now onsighted Nadesjda (8c+) at Joncas. With more than 20 onsights of routes graded 8c and harder, Megos ranks second only to Adam Ondra in the onsight arena.

How well could you read the route from the ground?
I kinda did not prepare too much 😅😂 as always. I looked from the ground and the first half was sort of obvious where the holds are, but it was hard to say how good they were. When I arrived at the dead hang clip I didn't want to waste too much time, so I quickly came up with the no foot clip, as the footholds were not that obvious. After that the real battle started 😅😂.

How close were you to fall?
This one for sure one of the biggest fights I ever had during an onsight and I was so close to falling a lot of times.

Any other routes you sent on the same day?
Finished the day with a second go ascent of "Le blond, la brüte et le manouche" 8c+ and a second go ascent of "Progression" 8b+/c. All in all a very good day. I absolutely love those days of climbing a bunch of onsights and second go's!

Stefano Folgarait, with two 9a’s and 130 FA’s under his belt, has repeated Stefano Ghisolfi’s Omen Nomen (9a) in Arco.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying the route around mid-November and in a short time I fell several times on the last hard block and felt pretty close... then in January I was forced to stop for 20 days due to an injury. I resumed trying the route in February and then on March 3rd, after finding an easier method for the final block, I finally managed to climb it.

How big is the bolting potential around Arco?
I've bolted around 130 routes in the Terragnolo valley and there's probably potential for another 50-60 routes, most of them in unpublished crags.

Haruki Uemura, who did his first 9a last year, has sent Jungle Speed (8c+/9a) and Estado critico (9a) in Siurana. The 21-year-old Japanese climber won gold at the Youth World Championships in 2021 and, two years later, reached the finals in Briançon, which was his last World Cup.

Can you tell us more about your trip and the ascents?
I’m visiting Siurana for a month with Sachi [Amma]. It’s my first time back in a year. At the beginning of the trip, I went to the La Capella sector for the first time and tried Jungle Speed. Aside from the opening dyno, I was able to solve the moves quickly, and it felt very possible to send. After taking a rest, I sent it in the next session. It took me 7 tries.

For Estado Crítico, I managed to work out all the moves on my first try. On my third attempt, I fell on the final crux—the shoulder move. My fourth try was in perfect conditions with strong wind. The wind was pushing me around, and I felt like I might fall, but I managed to finish the route. I was able to send both routes quickly, and it really made me feel how much I’ve improved since last year. They were incredibly cool routes!

What is your next plan and why did you stop competing?
Competitions aren’t really for me. It’s hard for me to perform at my best when there are a lot of spectators watching and I’m competing against many other climbers. More than anything, I just don’t enjoy it that much.

Sending a 5.15a (9a+) route has been my biggest goal in climbing since I was a kid. Right now, I’m projecting Maturity at Gozeniwa in Tokyo. In Siurana, I’m hoping to try La Rambla and Furia de Jabali.