Babsi Zangerl and Jacopo Larcher have repeated Alex Luger’s Seventh Direction (8c) in Rätikon. The 220 meter long route follows a particularly steep part of the wall, with sustained and strenuous climbing, throughout. Here is Babsi’s report.

”On August 15th, after completing our project "The Gift," we heard that Nemo [Nemuel Feurle] had successfully climbed "seventh Direction," which is located on the same rock face but about 50 meters to the left. Unlike "The Gift," which has one very hard pitch (8c) and another graded 8a+. "Seventh Direction" is consistently difficult and runs through the steepest section of the massif. While we were working on "The Gift," we often saw Nemo taking big falls on this exposed route. He spent two hand full days over two summers working on the steep line and finally made the very first repeat of "Seventh Direction" at the end of August.

After Jacopo’s send of "The Gift," he decided to join Nemo for a day on "Seventh Direction" to get a feel for it. They climbed the first difficult pitch together before a severe thunderstorm forced them to retreat. On the next attempt, I joined in. Jacopo and I spent three days together on "Seventh Direction." We worked out all the pitches and found solutions for the tough sections, benefiting greatly from Nemo’s previous efforts. He left his fixed ropes, and the route was already cleaned with visible chalk marks, making our task a bit easier. After three days of work on the different pitches, we decided to try a redpoint ascent. With five of the eight pitches ranging from 8a to 8b+, we agreed to approach it the same way as "The Gift"—one of us leading all pitches one day, and the other the next. To decide who would go first, we played rock-paper-scissors. The luck was on my side and I won, meaning I was up the next day.

On September 1st, we started early due to a high chance of thunderstorms that day. The first three pitches were easy, but the first hard pitch in the steep part of the wall took all my energy; I was not fully warmed up and barely managed to climb that pitch. My arms were pumped, and I felt already exhausted after the first hard section of the overhang. After a brief rest, I pushed on, feeling more confident but still nervous. I fought through a tricky boulder problem, only to fall just before the anchor of the second hardest pitch. Frustrated!! Jacopo lowered me back down to the belay. I tried again 45 minutes later and made it to the anchor. Back in the game. Then came the crux pitch. It was a massive fight, but I somehow barley made it and clipped the anchor, realizing I still had a little chance to send the whole line that day.Without much rest, scared from dark clouds in the sky, I pushed through the next 8a pitch, making it to the very last pitch as the sky grew darker. I asked Jacopo if he could jumar up instead of climbing to save time, as we could hear thunder approaching. Again no time for a proper rest, I began the final pitch, the one I had practiced the most. I was confident on that one but really exhausted as well. Maybe it was too much of a rush and pressure to keep on going. Again I fell at the very last move. I thought it was over. But then, a miracle—a small blue window opened in the clouds right above our route, while it rained all around us. After an hour's rest, the sky cleared, giving me one more chance. Feeling more relaxed and finally after a proper rest I climbed through the cruxes and reached the top. It was one of my most intense and motivated days in Rätikon—an incredible, steep climb through the wildest part of this wall located at Gelbegg. Thanks, Alex Luger, for this amazing route!

And biggest thanks to my partner in crime for all the support during the day and for sharing all those great moments together. Jacopo climbed the route two days later on the 3rd of September. He didn’t have a single fall. Climbed everything first try on lead! It was a perfect day, we were super fast, both no falls and we stood on top of the wall already around 2:30 p.m. That was a perfect ending of a great summer, spending lots of time in the beautiful Austrian part of the Rätikon.”

Sam Weir, who previously in 2024 has sent his two first 8C+’, has repeated Giuliano Cameroni’s Hazel Grace Sit 8C (+) in Gottardo / Gotthardpass.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I did the stand to Hazel grace back in 2021 and always wanted to come back to gottardo for the sit! Things lined up this August and I was able to go for some trips in August. There is one really hard move on the sit that took me 3 sessions and over 50 tries to stick it once. Day 5 it all lined up and I was able to top the boulder! The breakdown is about hard 8A+ (one mover) into 8B+. The boulder felt something in that 8C/+ range . Another 5 star bloc from Giul!

What is your next plan?
My plan is to try arrival of the birds from Aiden since I seem to be good at this 20 degree overhang static crimping style! If it’s too hard I’ll try Alphane again 😬

Do you train anything specific going for the hardest boulders or just train by projecting?
I have really changed the last 1,5 years. I used to only project hard boulders. A year ago I decided to start weight lifting and it changed my life. I put on some weight and muscle but no longer hurt my pulleys and feel so much stronger. This combined with hard board climbing is my training 2 times a week then one day a week outside on a project. Since I work full time I’m always training but if I want to send I’ll drop the weights for a few weeks and feel good!

What is your full time work?
I work as a contract manager in the nuclear industry in France.

Katie Lamb reports on Instagram that she and Keenan Takahashi have repeated Carlo Traversi’s Equanimity (8C) at Kirkwood. "This journey was almost entirely a mental challenge, which feels emblematic of a broader narrative in my recent scaling. I’ve been on a skill building mission to try and make this low angle tech style a strength. The crux for me was the process of losing trust and then building back to a point of tenuous belief…whatever that might mean to each scaler. In the end, I found my equanimous mind."

The ultra-technical route ascends a series of angled seams on a stunning 9 meters granite face and demands a combination of tight, awkward layback moves, delicate smearing, and precise body positioning and balance. Last year, James Webb did the second ascent and commented, ”Potentially a contender for the hardest technical boulder in the world?”

Katie has been one of the very best female boulderers for quite some years and in 2023, she did three 8B+’ as well as Box Therapy (8C). Here is a podcast where she discusses her training on how to break into new grades.

Jonathan Siegrist has done the FA of Walk the Line (9a) at The Monastery. "(Grand Ol’ Opry Direct) Really special day climbing this awesome route with my Dad on belay, bringing back so many memories of trying hard at this beautiful cliff. A big fight when I sent, fighting the pump until the bitter end. Came together much faster than expected so I hesitate with the grade, repeaters can confirm - and hopefully repeaters come, because this thing is mega! Thanks to Tommy for opening the route for me to climb on!" (c) Tara Kerzhner

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your memories from the Monastery?
Last week I returned to this incredibly special cliff, with the blessing of Tommy Caldwell to try a direct start project to ‘Grand Ole Opry’ he bolted. The Monastery was a super formative place for me way back when. I climbed my first 5.13 [7c+] here in 2006. The year I started trying ‘The Opry’ (2007), I couldn’t imagine actually sending so my goal was just to reach the first rest at the 4th bolt - even this was quite a mission. As far as I was concerned (and still am) TC was the pinnacle of American climbing, and with the Estes Park Valley guidebook in hand (one of the few guidebooks I owned back then), I was certain that the Vestibule at the Monastery was the sickest crag on earth. For many years I proclaimed that ‘The Opry’ was the best 5.14 [8b+] in the country.

Now, returning with a lot more experience I can say that I was probably right. This crag no doubt shaped my understanding of hard climbing and set the bar for top quality, it was such a joy to relive the brutal crimps and intense nature of this crag while trying the low start. It adds 30 feet of new climbing (nails 8c) into ‘The Opry’. Last Friday I sent the route with an awesome fight, my Dad on belay - it was the first time we had climbed together outside for many years (and the last time we climbed together at the Monastery he was fighting his way to sending the hyper classic, ‘Psychatomic’). It felt like so many things came full circle this past week climbing out there. I even bolted a new project that’s sure to be insanely hard… Massive thanks again to Tommy for inviting me to try the route and for a lifetime of inspiration, and to my homies Tara Kerzhner and Neely Quinn and (and Dad) for getting out! No name or grade yet for the rig but I can say it’s every bit as worthy as the others at this brilliant little wall… and definitely very hard.

Nina Arthaud, with two 8A+’ under her belt, reports from a great trip to Rocklands, where she managed to send; Vintage (8A+), and Law and Order (8A+).

Can you tell us more about the trip and your hardest ascents?
I spent three weeks in South Africa, and it was my first time there. We stayed in Cape Town for a few days. We were able to explore, see penguins, and there are also some great boulders there.

Then we went to Rocklands. What I loved most about it is how disconnected you feel from the rest of the world, in a beautiful place where you can meet amazing people who share your passion.

As you probably know, there are so many boulders there that it’s hard to choose. The ones that stood out to me the most were Vintage, Law & Order, and Green Mamba.

Vintage is a slightly isolated boulder, and what impressed me was the beauty of its shapes. I don’t think any other women have done it before, so I had to find specific beta that worked for me since I’m a bit shorter than the men who had done it before.

Law & Order is a lovely boulder where many different methods are possible, so you have to find the one that works for you! From this boulder, you can see beautiful sunsets, and if you’re lucky, there are also zebras. I tried this boulder on a beautiful sunny day and was lucky enough to send it at dusk, just before heading back to our place.

Green Mamba sticks in my memory for the quality of the rock and the movements it requires. I think it’s the stickiest rock I’ve found in Rocklands. This boulder is a traverse -not too hard, but quite tricky, and the slightest mistake can affect you for the rest of it. It has a tougher section with a big move to a small crimp. I had a lot of fun climbing this boulder with some really kind people.

Jordana Agapito, with 8a as her previous route personal best, has sent Gigante Por Natureza / Gigante Pela Própria Natureza (8c) in Cocalzinho.

Can you tell us more about your great personal best?
Two years ago after achieving some of my personal goals on bouldering [doing her second 8A+], I decided to change scenery and go deep on sport climbing. Gigante pela Natureza is one of the most beautiful lines in the area (Morro do Macaco - Goiás - Brazil) with amazing solid holds and a powerfull sequence of two boulders and no rest in an impressive steep wall with 40 degrees of inclination. It's just like a big moonboard 😅

I started trying the route last year in april and put a lot of hard work on it. Right now, the climbing season is over in Brazil and I had already given up of the route this year when I decided to go for the last shot and it happened! I had such a supportive partners that helped me along this months and I want to really thank them all. It was super mentally challenging for me and I am so glad I did it! A dream come true!

Ainhize Belar has repeated Rikar Otegui’s Iñi Ameriketan 9a (+) in Baltzola. Last month the 18-year-old onsighted Txirrin txirran (8b+) and she overtakes the #1 position in the female ranking game from Martina Demmel. (c) Aitziber Narbaiza

“Iñi Ameriketan” is a 30 metres physical route of power-endurance, with a hard boulder in the middle. The ascent took me around 20 minutes. It enters with a tense section of dynamic moves and from there, a traverse until a good rest. As soon as you come out, you have 2 hard quickdraws and then the boulder, which you have to force your fingers (you have to get there well). Afterwards, the thing relaxes but you can’t get lost, since it has a technical slab at the end. In short, a very complete and super beautiful route.

Otegui suggested 9a in 2002 which Patxi Usobiaga confirmed doing the first repetition the year after. Then in 2014, Adam Ondra gave it a personal 9a+ grade, which is also how Iban Larrion, in 2016, and Belar called it doing the fourth and fifth ascents.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
Well, at first it took me a while to find my own methods for each move and I knew it would be hard to link everything from the ground. But then, I was progressing quite fast in the sessions and each time I arrived with more options to the boulder. Even so, I realized that I would have to be very patient with the conditions, as it started to get wet and I had to wait until I got back from vacation.

I tried it for the first time in February, I used to go on weekends and in April-May I left it with a fall and very close to doing it. Then in June it got wet and I couldn’t give good tries. Finally, I have been able to do it the second day after vacation.

Matteo Marobin has sent Three Degrees of Separation (9a+) in Céüse. “Can't describe how sick this route is... It's just perfect. Definitely a dream come true.” His full story of the ascent describes great comittment and includes a 15 meter fall, his eager to impress Janja and much more. (c) Titouan Marobin

“I was at the crag when Jules sent "Three Degrees of Separation" last June. I was working on "Pornographie," and all I could think about was finishing it so I could try "Three Degrees" myself. It looked amazing to climb, especially the three big dynos. I made up my mind right then it would be my next project. Besides, there had only been four ascents so far, which motivated me even more. I imagined adding my name alongside legends who have made climbing history: Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Lucien Martinez, and Jules Marchaland. It made me dream.

Then, after sending "Pornographie" in early June, I went back to Céüse in mid-July to explore and start working on "Three Degrees of Separation." At first, I was incredibly excited, I had watched Chris Sharma’s video and dreamed about this route so many times that I was eager to see if it was as amazing as I imagined. I wasn’t disappointed, in fact, I was immediately blown away by the beauty of the route and the magnitude it exuded. The first time I found myself at the start of the first dyno (the furthest of the three), it felt like I had to make a two-meter leap to reach the hold, it seemed so far away… The starting holds and footholds are okay, you just have to go for it as hard as you can and hope to reach high enough to catch the swing. Since the cliff is at altitude and there’s nothing behind for miles, every time I made that dyno, I felt a rush of adrenaline. It really felt like I was flying and staying in the air for several seconds. So, I unlocked all the moves and succeeded in all three dynos on my first session. I was extremely happy because the route was beautiful, sensational, and suited my skills. From then on, the real effort could begin. By the third session, I was getting comfortable with the sections and finding effective methods. During the fifth session, I managed to link all three dynos in a row. I then started trying from the ground up. I would fall on the first crux (two low percentage moves on three-finger holds). Then I’d start from the beginning of the crux to try and link the first dyno (two quickdraws higher), but each time, I was just a few centimetres short for reaching the hold. However, during the seventh session, the last quickdraw before the first dyno (which was a bit worn) came unclipped and existed out of the bolt during my fall. As a result, I took a fifteen-meter fall down to the level of the first quickdraw and landed hard on my right thigh (which was not very convenient for pushing with all my strength on the dynos…).

Anyway, it was a good time to leave and go back to training. I went to Voiron and stayed with the Etchar family, who hosted me in their Airbnb. We trained in the mornings until early afternoon, and then we napped in front of the Olympics for the rest of the day. A big thanks to the whole family for that week it was awesome! Upon returning to Céüse in early August, I felt good on the route. I immediately managed to complete the first dyno from the crux. It was the first time I had succeeded that, and it represented a significant milestone in the process of working on this route. I then resumed trying from the ground. I finally managed to pass the low percentage crux with the three-finger holds, and I felt comfortable with the second crux with small crimps, so I reached the first dyno, but I was still a few centimetres short of grabbing the jug. Even though the attempts were encouraging, it was hard to believe in a potential ascent this summer. Sometimes I was strong in the sections and linked several dynos from the crux, while other times I could fall everywhere because the route physically exhausted me. On top of that, I struggled to recover energy between the second and third dynos. Even if I rested for a long time, my energy would deplete as soon as I started the five moves to set up, and I couldn’t give enough energy to leap and reach the hold. Anyway, it was already time to leave Céüse.

Next stop: Innsbruck for two weeks of training. During these two weeks, I couldn’t stop thinking about the route. All I had in mind was to improve my endurance and recovery ability so I could regenerate at each rest (especially between the dynos). I felt my form improving with each session. I was eager to return to the route. After two days of rest, I was ready to give my final push of the summer. On my very first attempt, I managed to link the entire end of the route starting from the crimpy crux. Now, I was certain, I could send it this season. I just needed to put in the perfect run to complete it from the ground up. I had a week ahead of me before I had to return to Toulouse for the start of the University. The time frame was tight, it would be tough, but it seemed possible. The only drawback was I fell half of the time in the aleatory move at the start. It drove me crazy because there wasn’t really a way to improve it and it significantly slowed down my progress.

On Friday, August 30th (after falling once again at the same low move), I finally succeeded in the first crux. At that time, I switched to a different mode. I was finally going to unleash all the rage I had accumulated because of that move. I was hungry, so I powered through the crimpy crux and made it to the rest. I felt good and was in the right mindset. I knew Janja was on the ground, watching. From that moment on, my ego took over, I had to impress her. At the set up of the first dyno I knew I’d smash the jump. I thought, "I'll get this for sure." I gave it everything I had, and I stuck it! I was already thrilled, but I had to stay focused because the hardest part was just beginning. Fortunately, I could feel the other climbers on the ground starting to believe in me, and that was going to carry me through to the end. I felt like I was recovering well and was confident about the second dyno, which I hit as planned.

Now, only the last dyno remained. I started to overthink it because I often fell there during practice attempts. I wasn’t sure when to leave the rest, afraid of starting too soon. So, I told myself, "Maybe I'll never make it back here again, I have to give it everything I’ve got to avoid any regrets." So, I pushed on with grit. The five setup moves went well. I gave it all I had left to leap and reach the final hold, and I managed to stick three fingers in the jug and stop after several one-arm swings. It was unreal, I honestly don't know how I held on.

Anyway, the hardest part was done, all that remained was to clip the anchor three quickdraws higher. Even though it wasn’t nearly as difficult, I was still nervous because I had never really taken the time to check the moves, and I definitely didn’t want to make a mistake. But thankfully, everything went smoothly. I took a few seconds after clipping the chains to take it all in, then I let out a huge shout of joy. I never imagined I’d complete the end of the route on my very first time sticking the first dyno from the ground. Yet, that’s exactly what happened. So, we immediately went to celebrate at the pizzeria.

This route was my summer project, but foremost a dream line that I absolutely wanted to climb one day. I'm proud to have done it so quickly (17 sessions) and so early (at 20 years old). Thanks to everyone who supported me during this project. Thanks to all the people I met at the crag who cheered so loudly. It was a game-changer! Special thanks to Lee Min Young, and to Lukas, Konrad, and Thomas, three Italians who came to watch some actions on their rest day. They knew I was alone and offered to belay me. These kinds of unexpected meetings are incredible and make the story even more special.”

Stefano Ghisolfi has done his third 9a in two weeks, Brunhilde low start (9a) in Flatanger. It starts with the hardest part of Thor's hammer to avoid the jumar start of Brunhilde L2 (8c). ”I did it in a few days, first, just the 8c section on my second go, and then I started working a bit on the first part. It is a long route with few cruxes, a good training.”

What is your project status of Silence? Have you done all the sequences?
Yes, but just separately. No great progress so far, still haven't tried it from the ground. The hardest part is starting a bit before then the first crack crux and climb it. I go with the right foot in the crack instead of left, and use some crimps to turn again up, but the rest is very similar!