William Bosi has made the first repeat of Stefano Ghisolfi’s Excalibur (9b+) in Arco. Excalibur climbs a 40-degree overhanging wall in Drena, near Arco. Initially bolted by Cristian Dorigatti and Morris Fontanari, the route was taken on by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2021. After two years of effort, he successfully completed it in October 2023. (c) crimp.films

The 26-year-old scot started attempting the route in late 2022 and had a total of 21 sessions on Excalibur. However, he notes that only ten were productive, as poor conditions limited his attempts in the others.

”This is one of the craziest and rewarding lines I have experienced and pulling onto the top of the route is something I will always remember. [Excalibur] was my longest project on a rope since Mutation (9a+ at Raven Tor UK) so I was so psyched to piece it all together finally.

The conditions make a huge difference with this route. Too hot and the holds don’t work, too humid and the holds don’t work but too cold and your fingers go numb and don’t work. Lastly, you need good skin for the holds to bite properly so I needed everything to come together to grab the ascent.

The first go of the day everything went perfectly, I felt like I was floating through the climb and arrived at my previous high point feeling strong. Setting up for the final hard move I was really confident but disaster struck and I just missed the hold and fell off. I took an hour rest, warmed up and went again. This time I arrived at the rest feeling tired battling through the upper section but on the final crux I landed perfectly into the slot. Pumped out of my mind, I almost fell jumping to the jug but just about kept it together for the top out.”

Rosen Ruev, with 8b+ as his previous PB, has done Intermezzo XY gelöst (9a) in Plombergstein. ”Such a good route. I am happy that this one is my first 9a. It starts with 4 moves of hard 8B boulder and then after a couple of of big holds you go into a nasty two finger pockets 7C+ boulder. Another classsic from Klem Loskot.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and your climbing background?
Last season I spent a couple probably 4 or 5 sessions and this season I need 6. It was mentally challenging because Sunday was the last day I could go to the route and my last chance to do it. I fell a couple of times from the last moves and my knee was hurting from the first heel hook.

So for my climbing background I have climbed for 15 years and until 2020 I was a route climber and climbed until 8b+ and after that I switched to bouldering. This season I made my first 8B+ boulder and this bouldery route was the perfect one for me. I have tried it last year but couldn't do the crux, but this year I was feeling stronger and wrapped up the season with it.

Sera Gearhart, with four 8B’s the last 14 months under her belt, has completed Show of Hands Sit (8A+) in Moe's Valley. In the VL ranking game the 27-year-old is #2. ”Harder than you’d think for adding a single hold into the stand. I will never top this boulder out in good form, shout out to Vest for being the voice of God when I forgot my beta.”

What is coming up next?
I’ll be competing at the Triple Crown in Chattanooga and Boone! I’m trying to focus on my fitness for that event so less projecting, but hoping to try a few hard projects in the southeast on the side while we are there.