Eliot Stephens, with four 8C’s under his belt, has done the First Ascent of Zircon (8C) in Oxwich Bay. ”The crystal project. Several days over a few years, and 4 sessions this year. Some of the smallest crimps I've held, up a slightly overhanging wall. A level up. Onwards to the next local ones.”

Can you tell us more about the FA and the process behind?Found this one tough, even though I’m not sure it’s exactly my style. It’s really basic crimp climbing, small boxes and small moves. But the holds are so bad you only have to get one wrong to mess you up. And a handful of goes holding the crux crimp is enough to end a session. I tried it in 2022 and 2023 but just didn’t make much progress so sacked it off.

It was actually a really nice process, feeling a bit closer each session but just having to stop because of skin. I tried climbing in tape but the holds were just too small. The only negative was after one session I’d have to climb in tape for a week.

Sierra Blair, who previously has sent four 8A+’, has completed The Averager (8A+) in Oak Flats. The 31-year-old retired from the World Cup Circuit in 2019, having finished in the Top 30 in all but seven of 29 events.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The Averager first came onto my radar in February of 2024 when my friend Zach Levy found the line. We worked it for two sessions and I didn’t have much luck getting anywhere on the boulder, so I decided to keep it in mind for next season. We gave the boulder the working name of “The Revenger”.

I started to properly try it when Oak Flat season began again in November 2024. The first move eluded me but I was making progress on the boulder (I could do all of the remaining moves). Matt Fultz made the trip in January 2025 and grabbed the FA, calling it The Averager. Matt’s FA opened the door for me because now I had proof that the boulder was possible. I finally stuck the first move on my eight working session of the season and snagged the send on my ninth session on the boulder. I could not be more excited to send such a long project and I cannot wait for whatever boulder is next for me.

Mikel Linacisoro has had two amazing days in Santa Linya where he first onsighted Rock fucks (8b+), then flashed La Fabelita (8c) followed by a redpoint of Seleccion natural left exit (9a).

Can you tell us more about those three amazing ticks?
Well, two or three months ago I climbed my first 8b+ onsight while I was visiting my home in the Basque Country. This time, we arrived on saturday to Santa Linya and it was raining, super humid... so after the first try of Seleccion I decided to not try it again. I wanted to rest all the day to be fresh for the next day, but I was too motivated to stay the whole day belaying... Rock Fucks was dry and in good conditions, so I decided to give it a try. I usually struggle a lot with kneebars, but this time I was able to climb quite good and found the good beta between these crazy tuffas and the big overhang. Such a great line too!

La Fabelita is a classic route in Santa Linya. I was belaying a friend the day before, and I was so psyched to try it! So while I was waiting for the shadow to come to Seleccion Natural, I could make a really good try. I climbed everything quite good and I was able to clip the chain of Fabelita. After that, when the shadow come to the main project I was so happy and motivated already.

Seleccion is an amazing king line here in Santa Linya! First day I came here in November I saw the route and I said, ”okay, this will be my next project!” I first tried it for like 5 days, more or less 8 tries. I felt good on the lower boulder problems, but broke my skin many times during the attempts and also fall on the last move like 3 times. This made everything a bit more difficult, but it was a great project until the send.

Dylan Chuat has completed Supercrackinette (9a+) in Saint Léger. ”And bam, the little Supercrack fell!! Followed by a pretty crazy session with two 8cs on the first try and an 8a on sight. Have a lovely day!”

The routes the 24-year-old refers to having done second go are Rêve de poutre (8c) and La tournée du patron (8c).

Can you tell us more about the process behind the ascent?
I had tried this route a bit back in the day, but I wasn’t strong enough and never came back to try it again until now. To send it, I came for two weekends and then two more days this week.

Austin Hoyt sent Lucid Dreaming (8C) in January.

Allison Vest, with 14 boulders 8B and beyond under her belt, has completed The Fish-Eye Effect (8B) in Red Rock (NV). ”Took a lot for me to execute this one. The “big boy boulder” journey continues!” (c) Jon Glassberg Louder Than 11

What do you mean by ”big boy boulder” and how many sessions did it take?
In a similar vein to Booka Booka Booka (8B), Fish Eye suits the 6 foot [180+ cm] tall male climber the best because of its big spanned moves. I’m sort of on a mission to try and use my 6’2 span more and tackle some of the boulders that don’t have female ascents yet, partially because the size of the individual movement on them.

It can be a frustrating time working on these boulders because, while my arms are long, my legs are short haha so I have to find my own beta.

How tall are you?
I am 169 cm and my wingspan is 188 cm. Doing pull ups is so much harder with long levers hahaha.