Leo Cea, who sent his first two 9a’s, out of seven, at age eleven, has done Shangrila (8c+). ”Frankenjura super classic, happy to have climbed Germany's first 8c+ from 1995. For my height, 145 cm, the crux is right after clipping the last draw, those moves are definitely harder than the bottom crux." (c) Dorian Reinlein

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I started trying it this spring. Most of the time I went there with Alex Megos and Simon Weisser. Simon was projecting it too, so it was super motivating to work on it together. After a few sessions he sent it, and that just made me even more motivated to send it too. After that I kept coming back every now and then while climbing lots of other projects around Frankenjura with Alex and Simon. Shangri-La was always in the back of my mind.

I also met Lena Herrmann, who did the FFA, in Schlaraffenland while I was projecting the route, and that was really motivating. Knowing that so many strong climbers have been inspired by this route over the years makes sending it feel even more special.

It was also a really special day because my best friend, Gael Detoy, came over from the USA after the World Cup in Arco. We used to climb together all the time in Chile, and it was really special to have him belaying me when I finally sent the route. He also climbed a classic 8c that day, so we were both super happy.

What did you like most about the route and what about the crux?
It's just such a cool climb! The first eight meters are pretty easy, then there's one really hard move that most people call the crux. I actually loved that move... but funny enough, it wasn't my crux.

The crux comes after clipping the last bolt! I couldn't reach the better holds that taller climbers use. I had to find my own beta using really tiny holds and tricky moves. That took me several sessions, but it was super cool to finally figur it out.

What is next?
I have some 9a projects that I'm working on. Frankenjura is super hard! There are so many amazing and difficult routes here, and I'm really enjoying discovering this area and its history. I'm also preparing for a very important project in Spain, so there are some exciting things coming up! I also want to say thank you to the Benno-Kittl-Stiftung, the Frankenjura Academy and to my regular sponsors for all their support.

Gianluca Vighetti, who last year sent two 9a+’, has done Thunder Ribes (9a) in Arco. Last year, the 17-year-old won the Euro Youth Cup. This year, due to injury, he competed in only one event and finished as the runner-up.
Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The day after a very disappointing semifinal at the World Youth Championship in Arco, I needed to reset my mind with a bit of rock climbing. It was also raining, so we didn't have any other choice than Massone. I wanted to try Thunder Ribes because I was really curious about the finger-lock crux. It was a cool climb—really unique. I'll definitely be back to climb the lower start (Ultimatum).

What is next?
My next comps are the european senior cups this august and I'm excited also for my off-season projects on the rock🫣

Pierre Marzullo, who in the last two world cups has been 12th and 17th, has in just 2+2 sessions done La moustache qui fâche (9a+) and The famous gem (9a) in Briançon. (c) Crimp Films

9a+: ”Nice approach moves on cool holds, then I found the crux super weird but really interesting. Not the best route in the world for sure but still fun to climb.”

9a: ”Amazing route, amazing rock, amazing sequence. For me the heel toe couldn’t stay in the hole move so I went for the double dyno. I think if you’re tall enough to keep the heel comfortably it could be easier than 9a… Anyway a recommended one for sure!”

The 19-year-old sent his first 9a+ three years ago but has later focused more on competitions. His plan is to start projecting a 9b after the comps are finished.

Adam Ondra, with four 8C flashes to his name, has had three incredible hours in Val Daone flashing Skiantos (8B), Verdena (8B), Fuori Tempo (8B), Il trono (8B) and Sky dive (8A+). In the ranking game he is number three but only counting flashes, the 32-year-old is totally superior.

Ondra logs all 8B’s with five stars and comments on Instagram, ”All the climbs are amazing, and Il Trono is really a true kingline 😮 It is even better than in the video, it climbs less weirdly than it looks, and it is less knee-intensive than it looks. An absolute masterpiece by @valdo_chilese 👌”.

Pepa Šindel, who the last year has sent ten routes graded 9a to 9b, has done Affinità elettive (9a+) in Capanna Bill. ”Beautiful! Great vision by Andrea Milani! 60 meters of pure endurance. Gladly didn’t drop the last pitch 🙏😭 Maybe soft?”

Can you tell us more about the ascent and how much effort it took?
The route starts with a Frankenjura-style 8b/8b+ pitch on pockets, then joins into a power-endurance 8c+ and keep pushing higher… all the way into the final 9a pitch, 55 metres above the ground! 🤯

My first tries on this route took around 90 minutes each before I figured everything out. Václav Šindel thanks bro, for all the patience. 😵‍💫🙏 At first, I thought I had no chance of linking everything together because the amount of endurance it takes is insane, even though there are good rests in between. Even thought the last 3rd pitch is on its on max 8b more like 8a+ with a really good rest after the second pitch its still super hard, because after just 3 moves you instantly get pumped everything that you just rested:)

I was also super lucky 🍀 on my send go because literally a minute after I clipped the chains, the rain started pouring down, and the route was completely wet within seconds! Somehow, I also never fell on the last pitch. 🙏 On the send go, I spent 45 minutes on the wall.

In the end, everything came together much quicker than I expected, and I managed to send it on my 3rd day, 6th go!

What is next?
Right now I am trying Adam Ondra’s new 9a+ called The Big Twin. So far I spend 1 day on it. And I really like it:)

Caleb Franchere has in July flashed six boulders 8A and beyond in Rocklands including Moon shadow (8B).

Can you tell us more about your flash focus, the most memorable ones and your beta preparation?
Coming into the trip it was a goal of mine to flash 8B, as well as give absolutely everything I hopped on a good flash burn. It’s been really fun to work on my execution!

I’d say definitely Moon shadow and Shosholoza are the ones I’m most stoked about, Moon shadow for being my first 8B flash and Shosholoza for being one of the first Rocklands climbs I’d ever saw.

The only preparation I’ve been doing is studying up on different videos of the climb beforehand, especially scoping beta from climbers similar in size to me.

What is the next plan?
I’m very close to Speed of Sound (8B+) and Mooiste Meisie (8B) so I’ll be spending this last week focused on those

Alex Megos has flashed Ryan Sklenica’s Baby Cakes (9a) in Nowra, which is a link-up of Cheesecake (9a) into Little Baby Cheeses (9a). ”Fitness climbing through the roof.” (c) Talia Suh
The 32-year-old German climber has three 9b+ ascents to his name, along with one 9a onsight and two 9a flashes. He has also enjoyed an outstanding competition career, earning ten World Cup podium finishes and three World Championship medals.

Can you tell us more about the beta preparation?
It was definitely a very dry day for Nowra. Apparently it can be quite wet and seep a lot, but we were lucky. I watched a video the night before and got the holds explained by Ryan and Gorge. Then on the morning of the flash they both went up on the route and Ryan showed me the first half and Gorge showed me the second half. I set off and pretty much executed everything very well 🙏🏼

Sergio San Martín Fernandez, who started climbing in 2020 at age 18, has completed Las meninas R2 (9a+) in Rodellar. Between the ages of 9 and 18, he did breakdancing. During the last year before he started climbing, he also practiced calisthenics.

” A dream come true: my first 9a+! 🥹 A super long, incredibly pumpy route, and in a season that, if you ask me, is way hotter than it should be. The first pitch is 9a+, and I guess the second is around 8c? I'm not really sure, but I absolutely loved climbing it. Thanks to everyone who has been there supporting me. Now it's time for more—there's still plenty of summer left! 🥹🍳⛱️”

Can you tell us more about the trip and sending your first 9a+?
What I had been wondering for a while was whether I was ready to make the jump to the next level after climbing 9a, especially since there aren't many routes in the ninth grade around Alicante. So I knew my main goal for this trip to Rodellar was to give it a serious try. I started by attempting Meninas Sixtina (8c), a pure endurance route that suited me really well. I managed to send it on my second day of the trip.

The following week, I dedicated myself to working on Las meninas (9a), especially its crux: a highly pumpy endurance section with very technical knee-bar rests. I was lucky to figure it out fairly quickly, and that's when I realized I actually had a chance. Everything came down to the final pitch—an incredibly technical 8c.

In total, it's about 50 meters of climbing. With the heat we've had these past few days, it was a real sufferfest, but in the end I managed to send this absolute 10/10 route after just three weeks. I definitely paid the price, though—I could barely walk afterward from all the knee-bars I had to jam into that roof.

It was a grade I'd been chasing for a long time, and finally achieving it has given me a lot of confidence to take on even bigger goals.

What is next?
I’m going to start trying La Vie (9b) without pressure. But I feel it will be a more ambitious project.

Ajda Remškar, the Slovenian team manager in the current Youth World’s in Arco, has sent Kingslayer (8c) in Ter. The five star line was bolted by Rajko Zajc and then Klemen Novac did the FA of in 2018.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
This one was a big challenge for me— a series of mini cruxes that kept me at my full span and required some creative solutions for the powerful and dynamic sequences. An absolutely phenomenal route.

Attempting it during a heat wave felt silly, but the send go came as a rare moment of calm during a pretty turbulent period so it felt really satisfying to finish it off.

Satone Yoshida, who last Sunday was seventh in the Chamonix WC, has sent Three degrees of separation (9a+) in Céüse. Impressively enough, it only took him four four days and seven tries to repeat the Chris Sharma’s classic. ”I still can’t believe I send it…. I’m only 166cm, and it was kind a dream to send this classic dyno route!! If you don’t have enough height, you’re definitely going to struggle. But if you can find tiny holds and build the right sequence, sending it is far from impossible!!”

Last year, the 22-year-old finished third overall in the World Cup standings. This season, he currently sits eighth and has reached the top-eight finals on 18 occasions throughout his career.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The first dyno turned out to be twice as far as I expected. I had to use a tiny foothold that no one else was using just to make the jump. Even getting to that point, I couldn’t do the standard beta, so I had to add a few extra moves using tiny holds.

Once I had the beta figured out, I knew this had become one of the projects I wanted to finish at some point in my life. That’s why I’m still the most surprised that everything came together this quickly and I managed to send it on this trip!! I think it was one of the best climbs of my life.