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Noia 8c+ by Michele Reusa (16)

Noia 8c+ by Michele Reusa (16)

Michele Reusa has done Noia (8c+) in Andonno. "Noia is the first 8c+ in Italy, freed by Severino Scassa in 1993. The route is made up of the first part of an 8b+ (Noi) plus a traverse and the last part of 8b (Cobra). I did it after some five sessions plus attempts also on Noi."

Michele's younger brother Matteo and their father Iuri both climbed 8c+ last year at age 13 and 47 respectively. "This year was a year full of competitions and we did not climb so much outdoors. Matteo did one 8c. My father injured his knee this January and hasn't climbed that much afterward."

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Rekabi announced as part of IFSC coaching program

IFSC reports that Elnaz Rekabi, together with three other women are part of a programme aiming to increase the presence of female coaches at the Olympic Games. "All four participants attended the first online session on November 30th that kickstarted the 21-month leadership programme alongside spo…

Garnbret wants strict BMI rules in 2023

In a 40 min interview at the IFSC Climbing Summit, Janja Garnbret was very straightforward about BMI testing. She referred to a survey in Innsbruck where it later was stated that: 16 % of female athletes have no menstruation and 22 % reported that they currently struggle with an eating disorder. …

Schubert and Ondra on Project Big

What does Project Big mean to you? I’d say, Flatanger is the Yosemite of sports climbing. It’s the rock quality, the potential, the number of difficult routes, it’s simply extraordinary. It’s a beautiful place looking over the fjords to the sea, the cave is massive, it’s steep, offers so many hard r…

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Ali Hulk sit start extension total 9a+ (b) by Gonzalo Larrocha

Ali Hulk sit start extension total 9a+ (b) by Gonzalo Larrocha

Gonzalo Larrocha has repeated Ali Hulk sit start extension total (9b) in Rodellar, giving it a personal 9a+ grade. "I use two kneepads, and that's why I think it is easier than the version that Andrada made. There is also a new hold on the last part of the boulder where you can cross instead of taking three small holds. Please add thanks to Dave, Alizee, Pol, Andrada, Silvia and Blakpad. Without them, none of this would be possible."

The hybrid route starts with a boulder that Gonzalo was trying for five days. The day before the send he did, Ali Hulk Extension Total (9a+), which is the standing start. Gonzalo has previously sugggested some personal downgrades of other hard core routes. The 38-year-old also spent a lot of time shovelling dirt to raise the soil (40+ cm) so that the falls would be better. In total, this was the tenth sit start ascent, including Dani Andrada's, a bit shorter, FA, meaning it is the most repeated 9b in the world.

The Multiverse 8C by Eric Jerome and Daniel Woods

The Multiverse 8C by Eric Jerome and Daniel Woods

Eric Jerome, who previously has done seven 8B+', has done the third ascent of James Webb’s The Multiverse 8C. It was put up in 2014 as an 8B+ but later 8C has been suggested by the two repeaters as well as others who have tried it. "8 days this season and one terrible solo sesh a few years ago. So insanely scrumptious this one!!!"

Could you say something about your ascent?
I first tried Multiverse in Oct. 2020 but at the time I couldn’t convince anyone to go with me, and I didn’t have enough pads to climb on it safely. Additionally, there are tons of options for beta, so it’s really helpful to have people to work with. This year Taylor McNeill was finally finished his Joe’s project and was motivated for Multiverse. He started trying it the previous spring. I was pretty exhausted after having spent a few weeks finishing a project of mine in the Tetons, but I wanted to take advantage of the opportunity to try with him. We stayed in an Airbnb nearby for a week and had 3/4 sessions that week.

Taylor sent it and I made some good links. I took a couple of weeks to train in the gym and recover from the Tetons and returned with Isabel Faus for another few days of attempts and got two big overlaps. We thought the season was over and it would be too cold for the long problem, but we miraculously got one more day of great weather. I drove out to meet Daniel Woods, Isabel Faus, Arjan De Kock, and Davin Bagdonas who had found the boulder. Fortunately, I was able to take it down that day before the winter weather rolled in.

Daniel Woods reports on Insta that he did the fourth ascents also confirming the upgrade.

Omaha Beach 8b+ onsight by Nolwen Berthier

Omaha Beach 8b+ onsight by Nolwen Berthier

Nolwen Berthier has made the third female onsight, after Katie Brown and Sasha Digulian, of Omaha Beach (8b+) in Red River Gorge (KY). "With feet everywhere and thousands of crimps, I have to admit that the climbing in RRG suits me well. The Motherload sector and its “Madness Cave” is one of the longest and steepest in the valley, which reminded me of my beginnings in climbing and the hours of training spent in the 45° overhang of M’Roc (a gym in France). On my first visit, I did my first 8a+ on sight: “The Madness”! And its left neighbour “Omaha Beach” was calling me." (c) Pete Whittaker

Full interview on Fanatic Climbing.

Sierra Madre 8C by Stefan Scherz

Sierra Madre 8C by Stefan Scherz

Stefan Scherz, who in 2019 won Euro Youth Cups in Lead, Boulder and Combined, has done Sierra Madre (8C) in Zillertal. (c) Mathias Posch

Could you say something about the ascent and what is next?
I’ve been trying Sierra Madre on & off for some time now. I never felt great about it but now I went there in nice condition and sent it on my first try from the start. Amazing 13 moves, power-endurance testpiece, and maybe the hardest one in the area of Innsbruck. My plans for the next months are to have a good time on the rock and try something hard, before the training for the new season starts.

Helicopter v pošašt (8c) by Igor "Deda" Čorko (52)

Helicopter v pošašt (8c) by Igor "Deda" Čorko (52)

Last weekend 52 years old Igor Čorko aka Deda (eng. Grandpa) climbed his third 8c route. The route is "Helicopter v pošašt" 8c in Pajkova strekha, which is a combination of the routes "Helicopter v omaki" 8b and "Osapska pošašt" 8c. What’s interesting is that he did his first 8c at age 45. Two years ago, he did his second, two years after he fractured the arm and both heels.

We got the news from Roko Labrovic who comments. "It is again proof that persistence, will, and renunciation work miracles in life or at least in climbing. Let this be an inspiration to the younger generations. I think he is training 4 times per week. Climbing mostly outside, at least one training is indoor. One more thing that can be interesting is that he built 2 climbing gyms here in Varaždin, Croatia. In which he regularly maintains and sets routes, of course with some help of club members...and he has climbed 250+ routes, grades from 8a - 8c."

Forgotten G 8C and Ephyra 8C+ by Will Bosi

Forgotten G 8C and Ephyra 8C+ by Will Bosi

William Bosi has repeated Kim Marschner's Forgotten G (8C) in Chironico. "Amazing boulder that will be a future classic for sure!" (c) Sam Pratt

Yesterday, he also did James Webb'sEphyra (8C+) in Chironico. Two weeks ago, Will repeated Alphane (9A), saying his FA of Honey Badger (8C+), felt harder. When it comes to routes, the Brit has done close to 20 routes 9a to 9b+. Last year, he was #11 in the Lead World Championship but he has not done any comps this year.