Mayan Smith-Gobat, one of the best female allround climber, has greenpointed China Doll in Dream Canyon to the first anchor. It is a nice sport route graded 8a+ which Mayan did on trad gear suggesting 8b. Last week, she did the 3rd free ascent and the first female ever of Donnafugata in Dolomites in 32 h which is a 25 pitch 8a. She onsighted all but two pitches!
TOP IMAGES OF THE WEEK
Jan hojer did yesterday add another five 8A's in Rocklands and including Golden Shadow 8B+, the 20 year old has done 34 boulders 8A and harder in two weeks in Rocklands. His record breaking ticklist includes three 8B+ and four 8A+ flashes. In the 8a game he is #6. (c) DAV In three weeks he will be one of the favourites for the last Boulder World Cup in Munich as he was #3 in the last event. The boulder world championship starts September 12th."I'm gonna leave on Tuesday and probably focus on plastic till the world championship. Maybe I will go to Switzerland for a few days after the World Cup if I'm in a good shape...
Sarah Seeger has done Chrisu, 8c in Rottachberg in the German alps. "It is my 3rd 8c, after Steinbock and Odd Fellows, both in my current home area, the Frankenjura. Chrisu was an epic story for me and I did not expect to send it today at all - maybe that was the secret :-) now it's time to enjoy summer, then back to some Frankenjura projects!" (c) Manuel Brunn
Piotr Schab has done Chris Sharma's beautiful Era Vella, 9a in Margalef. "Yeah!!! My longest project abroad, about 7 days of trying... I can't believe it now, my dreams came true :)" Piotr is the sixth youngster to have done a 9a before turning 16. Adam Ondra (13), Enzo Oddo (14), Geoffray De Flaugergues (15), Domen Skofic (15) and David Firnenburg (15). (c) Elias Holzknecht
Alex Honnold has recently set some new standards when it comes to solo and speed climbing in Yosemite. "I'm attempting to shift my focus to hard free climbing rather than big link-ups and solos," he says in this 8a interview. Alex has previously done 8c+ routes and 8A+ boulders so he including also his trad skill he is a contendor to be the best allround climber in the world. The last weeks he has onsighted six routes 7c+ and harder. You can also follow him at Facebook which already 30 000 do.
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
In bouldering, you do not get any credit for being close to Top out, i.e. match the Top in control. This can create situations that many do not find fair. A climber barely getting the zone once, could score better than another one that several times climb higher and but falls every time trying to ma…
Your premium source when it comes to route setting, gym management and the world of indoor climbing. Researched by experts, written for enthusiasts. Inside thi…
Outdoor climbers appreciate nature. Access and environmental issues have possibly made many of us act differently both at the local climbing scene and in the bi…
Here is a quick comparison of the current Bouldering scoring with Tops/Zones, the newly suggested IFSC 100 point system and the 11 point system I presented to a…
Jorg Verhoeven, active competition climber since 1999 and overall World Cup winner in 2006, has sent us some comments in regards Marco Scolaris recently published thoughts on BMI and eating disorders. "Scolaris' statement is very 'politically correct', unfortunately, this won't bring us much furt…