EDITORIAL

by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief

No IFSC comp participation for Russians, until at least June

On Wednesday, the IFSC board decided to postpone the decision, on whether Russians will be allowed to compete in IFSC events, until June. This was announced at the IFSC general assembly in Singapore today. In practice, this means that the only path for the Russians to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olym…

Jorge Diaz-Rullo puts his mega-project on hold and keeps the 8b+ onsights flowing

Jorge Diaz-Rullo puts his mega-project on hold and keeps the 8b+ onsights flowing

Jorge Diaz Rullo has onsighted Rollito Sharma (8b+) in Santa Linya. The extension to this route is 8c and he fell on the last move. On Insta he reports that the…

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Climbing did not make it into the Olympics 2020

IOC has decided that Climbing will not be in the Olympics in 2020. Wrestling, squash and Softball/Baseball did make it to the "semi" and probably one of these sports will be in the Olympics 2020. What do you think about this?

9a/+ FA by Steve McClure (42)

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9a/+ FA by Steve McClure (42)

Steve McClure reports that he has done a new link-up at Malham adding 10 meters of climbing, calling it Batman 9a/+. It doesn’t matter what ‘9’ it is; 9a, 9a+ or 9b is just off the pace. However, it’s not a bad thing to put some kind of marker on a route. It’s up to the first ascensionist to at least have a stab; in a way it’s their duty. Though the finished route would be 'link up' in nature, it is clearly very valid and potentially better than the routes it deviates from. Without doubt its one of the best pieces of climbing I have ever managed.i> Steve has previously put up several 9a's and he is working on a significally harder project with a much harder start. Full story from Steve in the comments. (c) Tim Glasby

9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger

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9a FA by Adam Ondra in Flatanger

Petr Pavlicek who has done yet another trip with Adam Ondra to Flatanger, reports: "After Change 9b+ and Thors Hammer 9a+, Norway or the whole Scandinavia have 3rd route in 9a range. During our stay in Norway in May 2013, Adam bolted several projects. 4 of them are already done, all of them super nice. 8a, 8b+, 8c+ and today this 9a. It is rather short, compared to the other lines in this incredible cave, but it has super nice hard bouldery moves and a really tricky dyno, very low above the ground, into a tiny hold which you can not see. But this is just a little warm up, now the time for really super hard projects here comes...

Favresse' hardest crack in Norway

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Favresse' hardest crack in Norway

Planet Mountain reports that Nicolas Favresse has opened The Recovery Drink in Jössingfjord - Norway, giving it no grade but saying it is his hardest crack ever, so it should be at least 8c. Nicolas comments that some gear was pre-placed in order to make it easier to clean the 35 m overhanging crack after falls. I have finally sent my long term king line crack project in Norway last Wednesday! I feel so happy and complete;) It's for sure one of the coolest line I have ever climbed and the hardest crack I have ever redpointed. (c) Jean-Louis Wertz