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Sanjski par extension 9a by Mateusz Haładaj

Sanjski par extension 9a by Mateusz Haładaj

Mateusz Haladaj, who previously has done 16 routes 9a to 9a+, has sent Sanjski par extension (9a) in Osp/Misja Pec. "One of the best routes I've done so far. Super intense and technical roof climb, feels solid for the grade even using kneepads." (c) Mikołaj Heretyk

The 37-year-old, who did his first 9a in 2009, reports that he was on a trip with the Polish youth national rock climbing team. Interview how this work is coming up. "Our 2022 Team grouping was quite successful. The youngsters get stronger every year and the highlights were: Missing drink (8b+) (hard) for Maja Oleksy age 15 and Sanjski par (8c) for Michał Korban age 17."

Les Ombres d'Opalines 8A+ by Sera Gearhardt

Les Ombres d'Opalines 8A+ by Sera Gearhardt

Sera Gearhardt has done Les Ombres d'Opalines 8A+ in Fontainebleau, which is 8B in the topo. “Last day best day for me! Screaming, shaking, crying, etc. Consensus that I've heard is 8A+ and that seems right to me. Beyond psyched rn :')”

During three weeks in Fontainebleau, the 25-year-old, who previously has done three 8A+ In 2022, also sent Conviction (8A) and .

Can you tell us more about your latest 8A+ ascent?
Psyched to have had luck with the weather to finish this one off! Our last few days in font were projected to have 100% chance of rain all day, so I'd written off being able to do this one this trip. Luckily, that was not the case and we were able to sneak in a last day best day session! I put a lot of pressure on myself when I realized that I'd have a chance to try again. For a few hours I wasn't climbing well because of my expectations, but once I let go of the outcome it went much more easily :)

EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Garnbret wants strict BMI rules in 2023

In a 40 min interview at the IFSC Climbing Summit, Janja Garnbret was very straightforward about BMI testing. She referred to a survey in Innsbruck where it later was stated that: 16 % of female athletes have no menstruation and 22 % reported that they currently struggle with an eating disorder. …

Schubert and Ondra on Project Big

What does Project Big mean to you? I’d say, Flatanger is the Yosemite of sports climbing. It’s the rock quality, the potential, the number of difficult routes, it’s simply extraordinary. It’s a beautiful place looking over the fjords to the sea, the cave is massive, it’s steep, offers so many hard r…

Janja Garnbret interview

“Everybody wants to have a world champion at 16, and a long career. It’s a marathon, not a sprint, but I’m seeing too much pressure put on younger athletes, and an increasing number of injuries because to this.”"Do we want to raise the next generation of skeletons?"

MORE NEWS

Falshiv geroy 9a by Niki Rusev (16)

Falshiv geroy 9a by Niki Rusev (16)

Niki Rusev, who did his first two 9a's in 2020, has done Falshiv geroy (9a) in Vratsa. Last year, the 16-year-old won both the World and the Euro Championships in Boulder. Impressively, he also won one Euro Youth Cup in Speed.

Can not describe how happy I am about this one😌. Back in 2020 @fazabrushes bolted a new line in the crag and it seemed to be a hard one💪. We did all the moves but for me, it was crazy to connect all the parts together 😲. The bad thing is that the route gets wet easily so we couldn’t improve more💦😩. Last month Ivailo fazata did FA 🫡. (Surprisingly fast he got back in shape after being a Bg national team coach the whole comp season).

For me it took me a month and a half to send Falshiv geroy (translated - Fake hero)👀. Every next try was better than the other until I stuck on the last hard move of the route, maybe because I underestimated it. I did try a lot of things like doing leg days in the fitness🦵(to rest more with my knees) or just training endurance in the gym but the final conclusion is I got better when I was on the route🤝. After another fail, I decided to change my beta by skipping one move and making a bigger jump and it helped🤔🤠🔥. I don’t know when but we have to go back to try the second part of Falshiv geroy. It continues directly through the roof of the cave and finishes on top of it🤯.

Moonlight Sonata 8C+ by Matt Fultz

Moonlight Sonata 8C+ by Matt Fultz

Matt Fultz, who previously has done five 8C+’, has done Moonlight Sonata (8C+) in Joes Valley. Taylor McNeill made the FA last year and there is a sit start project. (c) Insta

Could you say something about the ascent?
Moonlight Sonata is a very unique boulder FA’d by Taylor McNeil last year. On my first day, I did each individual move very quickly, flashing all but one of the moves. I expected it would be a fast send for me, but that ended up not being the case. The big surprise was that all the hand moves weren’t too bad, but the foot moves and transitions posed some serious problems. In the end, it took about 12 sessions in all. Half of those last Spring and the other half this Fall.

Are you doing any supplementary training?
I train flexibility through strength training. Squats, deadlifts, overhead press, and bench press are my main staples.

Noia 8c+ by Michele Reusa (16)

Noia 8c+ by Michele Reusa (16)

Michele Reusa has done Noia (8c+) in Andonno. "Noia is the first 8c+ in Italy, freed by Severino Scassa in 1993. The route is made up of the first part of an 8b+ (Noi) plus a traverse and the last part of 8b (Cobra). I did it after some five sessions plus attempts also on Noi."

Michele's younger brother Matteo and their father Iuri both climbed 8c+ last year at age 13 and 47 respectively. "This year was a year full of competitions and we did not climb so much outdoors. Matteo did one 8c. My father injured his knee this January and hasn't climbed that much afterward."

Ali Hulk sit start extension total 9a+ (b) by Gonzalo Larrocha

Ali Hulk sit start extension total 9a+ (b) by Gonzalo Larrocha

Gonzalo Larrocha has repeated Ali Hulk sit start extension total (9b) in Rodellar, giving it a personal 9a+ grade. "I use two kneepads, and that's why I think it is easier than the version that Andrada made. There is also a new hold on the last part of the boulder where you can cross instead of taking three small holds. Please add thanks to Dave, Alizee, Pol, Andrada, Silvia and Blakpad. Without them, none of this would be possible."

The hybrid route starts with a boulder that Gonzalo was trying for five days. The day before the send he did, Ali Hulk Extension Total (9a+), which is the standing start. Gonzalo has previously sugggested some personal downgrades of other hard core routes. The 38-year-old also spent a lot of time shovelling dirt to raise the soil (40+ cm) so that the falls would be better. In total, this was the tenth sit start ascent, including Dani Andrada's, a bit shorter, FA, meaning it is the most repeated 9b in the world.

The Multiverse 8C by Eric Jerome and Daniel Woods

The Multiverse 8C by Eric Jerome and Daniel Woods

Eric Jerome, who previously has done seven 8B+', has done the third ascent of James Webb’s The Multiverse 8C. It was put up in 2014 as an 8B+ but later 8C has been suggested by the two repeaters as well as others who have tried it. "8 days this season and one terrible solo sesh a few years ago. So insanely scrumptious this one!!!"

Could you say something about your ascent?
I first tried Multiverse in Oct. 2020 but at the time I couldn’t convince anyone to go with me, and I didn’t have enough pads to climb on it safely. Additionally, there are tons of options for beta, so it’s really helpful to have people to work with. This year Taylor McNeill was finally finished his Joe’s project and was motivated for Multiverse. He started trying it the previous spring. I was pretty exhausted after having spent a few weeks finishing a project of mine in the Tetons, but I wanted to take advantage of the opportunity to try with him. We stayed in an Airbnb nearby for a week and had 3/4 sessions that week.

Taylor sent it and I made some good links. I took a couple of weeks to train in the gym and recover from the Tetons and returned with Isabel Faus for another few days of attempts and got two big overlaps. We thought the season was over and it would be too cold for the long problem, but we miraculously got one more day of great weather. I drove out to meet Daniel Woods, Isabel Faus, Arjan De Kock, and Davin Bagdonas who had found the boulder. Fortunately, I was able to take it down that day before the winter weather rolled in.

Daniel Woods reports on Insta that he did the fourth ascents also confirming the upgrade.