LATEST NEWS

Two 8c+' by Moroni in Frankenjura

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Two 8c+' by Moroni in Frankenjura

Gabri Moroni has had another great trip to Frankenjura where he did two 8c+ and several almost 30 year old classical including Kamasutra 218. "Gullich '86! 3tries. Hardest 8b ive ever done!" The Italian has recorded 14 routes 8c and harder the last year which stands for 30 % of the total registered in the Frankenjura 8a data base. "Frankenjura is the place where I feel at home and I have been there many times. I feel good there and the style of climbing suits me very well. You love it or you hate it... and the hard routes are kind of specifics with bouldery sequences on bad crimps and pockets." Full report and and more pics by Thomas Horstner in his blog

Melloblocco #10

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Melloblocco #10

Planetmountain has the full report from the tenth Melloblocco which gathered some 2 000 boulderers. (c) Klaus Dell'Orto Video by Gianluca Bosetti. Results from the 10 price giving boulders 9 Barbara Zangerl 8 Stefano Ghisolfi: Euro 570 I'm very happy to win this event. I was very motivated, climbing near Graham, Nalle and Ramonet was very inspiring. I had a lot of fun these days, they was unforgottable for me." 7 Jenny Lavarda 6 Caroline Ciavaldini, Yulia Abramchuk 6 Gabri Moroni, Enzo Oddo, James Pearson, Kipras Baltrunas and Enrico Baistrocchi

EDITORIAL

by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief

Water World 9a onsight by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra onsighted Water world (9a) in Osp/Misja Pec, last November."Yees, very proud to onsight it. Possibly not the hardest 9a especially with kneepads, but not a very obvious one to onsight. Super happy."

MORE NEWS

Rainshadow 9a by Jordan Buys

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Rainshadow 9a by Jordan Buys

Jordan Buys jumps two grades by doing his first 9a, Rainshadow in Malham which was set up by Steve McClure. "Best climbing day of my life so far!!!" (c) CAC. Steve comments, "A great effort. Jordan has really put the time and effort in, and totally deserves to get the ascent. He's been trying it a lot and was shut down last year by a terribly wet season with awful conditions. I’m really glad that at last a Brit has climbed one of my 9’s – hopefully more will follow, there are another 6 or so out there! Rainshadow is a truly brilliant route, perhaps my best, on the best UK sport cliff.

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Aris: Kalymnos bolts are OK

Climbing.co.za has published an article talking very badly about the bolt situation on Kalymnos, saying that Titanium is the only solution, that has been widely spread on Facebook. Mr Kalymnos, Aris Theodoropoulos, has made some comments saying that the bolt problem relates to remaining non- and defective stainless steel bolts. He also says that the first picture in the article was taken by him as an example of non-stainless steel bolt. The other two pictures he does not think were taken on the island. Aris also comments the article by saying, "It sounds exactly like the sales pitch of a person involved in producing titanium bolts."