Ultra Instinct (8C) FA'd by Orrin Coley

Ultra Instinct (8C) FA'd by Orrin Coley

Orrin Coley, who over the last six years has sent nine 8B+ graded boulders, has done the FA of Ultra Instinct (8C) in Forest rock. "3 years of effort over in 26 seconds."

Can you tell us more about those 3 years and 26 seconds?
So in early 2019 I started working on a project which after 14 sessions became Limit Breaker (8B+). I was fairly confident at the time it was the hardest I'd done and took me significantly more amount of effort than any other 8B+'s I'd done.

The following year, I wanted a new project to sink into and started trying a lower start into Limit Breaker. The original start was flawed in that it was very vague and high up, but at the time I couldn't conceive a way of doing it from any lower so just settled for that. This new start is significantly better and supersedes the original in my eyes as it begins on two undercuts at chest height and creates a way more full problem by adding a 2/3 move 8A sequence into the original 8B+.

The crag is only 20 minutes from my home, so it's easy for me to get to and work at a moments notice. It suffers from fickle conditions being heavily affected by rapid temperature changes and seepage, so being so local makes it easier to manage those barriers. Then obviously the pandemic hit, no one wants to hear that story again but long story short, once I got out of the house I got back to it! I had one magic go that same year where I dropped the finishing hold, but it was more fluke than deserved, just a magic try. It took about a year to match that high point again and not for a lack of trying, as by that point I'd easily had over 40 sessions.

At that point it had well and truly got to my head, it became a painful psychological battle which I lost every time and only made it harder to deal with until eventually I hated being there under it trying the moves and just wanted to be as far away from it as possible. I kept trying to get into it in 2022, but it was too much to deal with so I eventually just walked away. I wasn't going to try it again until I actually knew I wanted to. That then lead to this year, I found a spark and decided to follow it. I had my first session, loved every minute, learnt lots and rekindled the psych. Then just over a week later, I was back trying again and soon enough there I was - at the end.

What about adding a sit start to it?
I think a sit start would be possible, but I'm not sure if I'm motivated for it, at least not now. It wouldn't add much quality, just a short 8A+/B sequence into what's now Ultra Instinct. I think I'm more motivated to get out, enjoy climbing different things and just have some more fulfilling experiences again, this took a toll and I'm not sure I'm ready to go through that again just now.

Lethal Design 8A+ by Juliet Hammer

Lethal Design 8A+ by Juliet Hammer

Juliet Hammer, who has already done seven 8As and one 8A+, has done Lethal Design (8A+) in Red Rock (NV).

Can you tell us more about your ascent?
I was excited to try Lethal because I had seen lots of pictures and videos of it and knew it was my style. I did two sessions on it in December last year then was able to come back on this trip and put it together.


by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief

Water World 9a onsight by Adam Ondra

Adam Ondra onsighted Water world (9a) in Osp/Misja Pec, last November."Yees, very proud to onsight it. Possibly not the hardest 9a especially with kneepads, but not a very obvious one to onsight. Super happy."


Sans Complexe 9a FA by Erwan Legrand, 14

Sans Complexe 9a FA by Erwan Legrand, 14

Erwan Legrand, son of Francois, one of the very best competition climbers in history, has made the FA of the 45 meter long Sans Complexe (9a) in Lourmarin. Additionally he has done three 8c+s, including José pine le gardien dans la cave (8c+), which he did last week.

Can you tell us more about your FA?
My dad bolted and tried it 15 years ago and he thought it was a real 9a but he never sent it. I have rated it 8c+/9a but I'm not sure. This route starts with a 7c. Then there is the first anchor where there is a brief bad rest, and then the second part is Perplexe (8b+) which is very hard for its grade. I have spent a lot of time [working towards] sending it. The third part is the shortest but also the most overhanging and intense. There is a 7C boulder problem which is very physical with pockets and also very aleatory. I screamed more than Adam Ondra when he sent Silence 😉😂. I never fall in the last part. When I managed the 8b+++++, I sent the rest of the route and that, I don't understand. I thought I will fall 20 times or more here! (My father fell more than 10 times on the final crux.) It's incredible.

How active is your father these days? (Interview is coming up)
We climb together in crag every other weekend, and sometimes in training during the week like yesterday when we trained in the climbing gym. Lately, he has not climbed a lot but he has bolted some routes in Buoux. Recently he has done the FA of a 7c+ in his style because it’s not too steep and very technical, but also in his anti-style because the route is short with a big dyno in the middle and after it's still really pumpy! 😉

Colin Duffy sends Bookkeeping (8C+)

Colin Duffy sends Bookkeeping (8C+)

Colin Duffy has made the first repeat of Drew Ruana's 25 move Bookkeeping (8C+) in Clear Creek Canyon (CO), video.

"Climbs off the books (8A) into Spidey (8B+), finishing on No Way Home (8A+). Despite being a linkup, the movement is quite nice and it flows well. Did not expect to send this one at all, I just had one of those days where everything was clicking and I was able to execute. As far as the grade, I don't have much input because it is extremely my style and I haven't tried any other hard boulders in this style. A route grade might be equally as appropriate as a boulder grade for this one. Hopefully, this thing can get more repeats in the future!"

The 19-year-old has previously done four 8B+ boulders and two 9a's. In the Olympics, he was #7 but mathematically speaking, if he had not false started by a mere 0.005 seconds in Speed, he would have won the gold. Last year, he won both Lead and Boulder in the Innsbruck World Cup.

Cameron Hörst does Southern Smoke Direct (9a)

Cameron Hörst does Southern Smoke Direct (9a)

Cameron Hörst, who already has six 9a's and one 9a+ to his name, has sent Southern Smoke Direct (9a) in Red River Gorge (KY). "I tried this climb every now and then during weekend trips when I still lived in the east. Never had the time to stay and see the process through. Since I have been feeling fit, I decided to make a return trip to the Red and finally seal the deal. Hit the boulder perfectly and was smooth sailing to the top!"

So, you're currently based in Salt Lake City and climbing mostly around there?
In summer of 2021 I moved from Pennsylvania to Salt Lake City, Utah. Although my home base is now SLC, I am traveling quite a lot as a pro climber (while attending university online).

What’s coming up next?
I have a few more days at the Red. Then going back to Salt Lake to train for a bit! Ceuse this summer and probably for a month. Not sure on specific route yet unfortunately, gonna depend on how I feel entering the trip.

Cavalo de Troia (9a) FA by Felipe Camargo

Cavalo de Troia (9a) FA by Felipe Camargo

Felipe Camargo has made the FA of Cavalo de Troia (9a) in Passa Vinte. The Brazilian has previously sent 9b and boulders up to 8C. (c) Fabio Moreira

My hardest first ascent in Brazil so far! Incredible route...really steep and physical 8c/+ to a taxing no hands kneebar into a powerful v10 (7C+) boulder problem to the anchor!

Can you give us a few more details about this route?
It’s an old project that Enzo Oddo and Gabri Moroni bolted in Brazil in 2013. It took me about seven days.

Is there more left for you to do in Brazil?
[Yes] Gonna focus on Brazil this year and try some hard projects here!!

Solveig Korherr does Shogun (8c) and Lucien Cousin does Im Reich des Shogun (9a)

Solveig Korherr has sent Shogun Part I (8c) in Basler Jura. ”Two days. Great finger strength testpiece. It had the perfect length to get back into sport climbing after mainly bouldering this winter. Got inspired by Lucien‘s (Cousin) send of Im Reich des Shogun (9a) last week🔥”

Can you tell us more about your and Lucien's ascents?
Last summer I moved to the Basler Jura for work but I didn’t climb there so much yet. The summer was a bit too hot. Over the winter, I spent a lot of time bouldering in Ticino. There were a few routes on my list that I wanted to try and Shogun was one of them. I got lucky that my friend Lucien who has been trying the historic line Im Reich des Shogun met up with me and could share some of his beta. Both lines share the bottom crux.

It’s a very fingery & sharp route. There is this big lock-off move to a tiny crimp and then an under cross move to a mono. I was quite surprised that I could already do all the moves on my second try and some good links on my third try on it. The best part of the day was that he sent Im Reich des Shogun at the end on his fourth try. It was very impressive to see him fight and witness the 5th ascent of this route.

This week I went back and the first two tries didn’t feel so good on it. That’s why I had no expectations on my third try but somehow fought my way to the anchor. I guess that’s when the magic happens. I’m psyched to check out the second part of „Im Reich des Shogun” in the future but for now I’m enjoying some trad climbing here in Cadarese :-)

Cédric Lachat (38) makes the FA of At Home Cornus 9a+

Cédric Lachat (38) makes the FA of At Home Cornus 9a+

Cédric Lachat, who has previously has done nine 9a+ graded routes, has made the FA of At Home Cornus 9a+ in Vercors, which Romain Gendey bolted in 2015. It is a crimpy 10-meter extension to a 30-meter-long 9a (8c+). (c) Jérémy Bernard

"Being close to my house, I often went there. The length of the route reminds me of long efforts [routes] such as, “Pachamama” or “La Rambla “. Nevertheless, I invested more time in “At Home Cornus” than the former. Compared to the previous 9a+ I did, the difficulty is that this one is new: a first ascent, there is no video, nor betas served on a plate." More quotes on Fanatic Climbing.

Cedric won 17 medals in a storied World Cup career. In 2007, he took the bronze at the World Championship in both Lead and Boulder. Seeing as how he has also done some very hard multi-pitches, the 38-year-old should be regarded as one of the best multi-discipline climbers in the world.