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The Ice Knife 8C by Woods and Robinson

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The Ice Knife 8C by Woods and Robinson

Paul Robinson and Daniel Woods have done two nice double sends in Guanella Pass by flashing Double Dutchez 8A+ and doing the first repeats of Dave Graham's excellent The Ice Knife 8C for which Daniel comments. (c) Beau Kahler of Paul Robinson "Perfect alpine temps... Snow mixed with blue skies and rolling clouds made it a majestic day. Overhung and technical compression climbing. Everything must click perfectly. Was fun to work it with Paul and have a double send day. Nice one Dave! The sit is next!

EDITORIAL

by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief

No IFSC comp participation for Russians, until at least June

On Wednesday, the IFSC board decided to postpone the decision, on whether Russians will be allowed to compete in IFSC events, until June. This was announced at the IFSC general assembly in Singapore today. In practice, this means that the only path for the Russians to qualify for the Paris 2024 Olym…

Jorge Diaz-Rullo puts his mega-project on hold and keeps the 8b+ onsights flowing

Jorge Diaz-Rullo puts his mega-project on hold and keeps the 8b+ onsights flowing

Jorge Diaz Rullo has onsighted Rollito Sharma (8b+) in Santa Linya. The extension to this route is 8c and he fell on the last move. On Insta he reports that the…

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8b by Maggie Smith-Odette (43)

Maggie Smith-Odette has done her first 8b, Faithless in Coliseum which is very impressive as she started to climb when she was 29 years old and now is 43. "FFA. hardest thing i've ever done. nothing better than a route that pumps the shit out of you before you get to the hard moves! ***

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Hojer & Wurm take German double

Jan Hojer (6) GER - Juliane Wurm (3) GER Dima Sharafutdinov (5) RUS - Anna Stöhr (1) AUT Kilian Fischhuber (3) AUT - Akiyo Noguchi (6) JPN The fifth Boulder World Cup in Innsbruck was a great show on nice problems. Jan started first as he was sixth in the semifinal and secured the gold even if five climbers remained to try the last boulder. The same thing happened for the result of Dima and Juliane. It can be noted that during 2013, 40 % of the winners have actually started first in the final as his/her semi final results were the worst of all finalist. This relatively good results for the last ranked guys coming into the final, we have seen since 2007 and especially in the four last world championships.

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Two 8B's and two 8c+'s by Alfons Dornauer (19)

Alfons Dornauer is in great shape having, the last week, done two 8B boulders in Zillertal and yesterday he did Reality Check 8c+ in Schleier Wasserfall. In the combined ranking game, the 19 year old is #8. Today he added The Source 8c+ in Zillertal to his impressive Tick list. "3rd go this year, had to brush the route at first, soo dirty!!! Conditions were perfect! One of the most stunning lines in the valley! MASTERPIECE!!!

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Ondra on a bolting mission to Flatanger

Adam Ondra is on a two week bolting trip to Flatanger where he during two weeks hopes to bolt another ten routes out of five, which are probably in the 9b range. He brought a 150 m static rope and hopes that this will make it possible to bolt from the top using hooks the master the overhang. If I feel in good shape I hope to also make some FAs but the plan is to go back home and train hard and return to Flatanger later this summer. Norway is amazing during the summer and in the cave you can also climb when it rains. I have not been climbing for a week and I am super pshyched to rapel down and start projecting new amazing lines.