EDITORIAL

by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.


Garnbret wants strict BMI rules in 2023

In a 40 min interview at the IFSC Climbing Summit, Janja Garnbret was very straightforward about BMI testing. She referred to a survey in Innsbruck where it later was stated that: 16 % of female athletes have no menstruation and 22 % reported that they currently struggle with an eating disorder. …

Schubert and Ondra on Project Big

What does Project Big mean to you? I’d say, Flatanger is the Yosemite of sports climbing. It’s the rock quality, the potential, the number of difficult routes, it’s simply extraordinary. It’s a beautiful place looking over the fjords to the sea, the cave is massive, it’s steep, offers so many hard r…

Janja Garnbret interview

“Everybody wants to have a world champion at 16, and a long career. It’s a marathon, not a sprint, but I’m seeing too much pressure put on younger athletes, and an increasing number of injuries because to this.”"Do we want to raise the next generation of skeletons?"

MORE NEWS

Zangerl's Viva la evolution - The world's first 8C!?

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Zangerl's Viva la evolution - The world's first 8C!?

In 2001, Bernd Zangerl made the first repeat of Dreamtime for which FA Fred Nicole had proposed the world's first 8C. As the grade has been questioned a possible contender for the first 8C is Zangerl's Viva la evolution located close to his hometown Flirsch at 2 300 m, in Tirol. There are another 30 problems from 6a to 8a in the area with potential for more but the hike is 30 m. (c) Beat Kammerlander "It felt for sure way harder than Dreamtime. It took me two years of very hard work to complete." More from pioneer BerndZangerl.com who is one of the guys in the world having done most hard core FA and who also was a major playor for establishing Magic Woods.

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8C in a session by Daniel Woods

Daniel Woods has made a quick first repeat of Dave Graham's The Bridge of Ashes 8C in RMNP and he puts Dave to the second position in the ranking game. Such a sick new addition to Elkland. One of my favorite problems that I have climbed. Dave has done it yet again with establishing anotha stunna. I was lucky enough to have freak conditions. There was a very cold, dry wind blowing....snow flurries... and just the right amount of moisture to stick perfectly to the grips. Though it went in a session, this boulder is hard. It is powerful, finicky, and requires precision. The rock will eat your tips very quickly. A true CO test piece, and for me the 2nd hardest problem in the state. We are island

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6th 9a by Mateusz Haladaj

Mateusz Haladaj has done his sixth 9a, Fuck the system in Santa Linya and he moves to #7 in the world ranking game. "Very good pitch, power endurance with a tricky traverse and a fantastic dyno on the top. 6th try, feel in shape.