Karo Sinnhuber ticks Nepomuk (8A+)

Karo Sinnhuber ticks Nepomuk (8A+)

Karoline Sinnhuber, who has done 134 boulders 8A to 8B, has logged her first boulder in 2023, Nepomuk (8A+) in Silvretta. Previously this year, the Austrian has done three 8b+ graded routes.

Can you tell us more about Nepomuk and why you took such a long break from bouldering?
I twice had inflammation in my ring finger - first time on the right side, after my pulley injury, and then from December on, on the left side 🙄. So I couldn‘t climb, train and crimp as hard as I wanted - that‘s why I ended up on the rope 😁, the holds are more finger friendly than on boulders. Since I booked my flight to Red Rocks (which got cancelled, thanks Lufthansa), I tried to get back into the bouldering game.

The boulder itself has 25 moves, so the timing couldn‘t be better to try this one now with my lead shape 😂 The first part of the boulder is Niviuk, which was one of my first ever boulders in Silvretta. It took me quite a while to figure out the sequences again, but when i found it, I managed to get through to the transition part every time.

The transition consists of a rest on heels and toes, before you get into the last bouldery moves of ‚Nevio‘. After all theses moves I found the last part quite hard, with all those crimps for the left hand.

 BJ Tilden FA's The Ritual at age 42

BJ Tilden FA's The Ritual at age 42

BJ Tilden has done the FA of The Ritual (9a) in Ten Sleep Canyon (WY). "Another hard and awesome one in the temple! Not as hard as Pneuma (9a) but seems solid in the grade. Different style but just as high quality." (c) Matt Pincus

Can you tell us more about your latest 9a?
I tried this route a couple of days two years ago and thought it was really cool. I didn’t get back to it last summer, so it was really on my mind for this summer. It took ten days this year. All of which were day trips from Lander to Tensleep. Leaving at noon and getting home at midnight. The route definitely turned out to be harder than I originally thought. The upper boulder is very high percentage in isolation. I was pretty much 100% on it from anywhere on the route, but it was a different story from the ground. The rest in the middle is really not that great, and the route stays on you all the way to the anchor hold.

Interestingly enough, the 42-year-old has his highest score on 8a since he started logging routes 21 years ago. In the 8a 40+ ranking game, Tilden is #2 after Daniel Fuertes.


by Jens Larssen, Editor-in-Chief

Niky Ceria on bouldering in Finland and climbing Silver Lining (8C)

"Silver lining is a great highball! A long-standing project in Finland that was finally put up by Andy Gullsten back in 2020. When I returned to Finland in 2021 I had 2 days on it on top-rope trying the sequences. 6 pads weren’t for me enough, so I knew I had to return more prepared. Last year this …

Two 8B+/C FA's by Cameroni in Val Bavona

Giuliano Cameroni, who has made the FA of at least 20 boulders 8B+ to 8C+, is pictured in the latest great Mellow video sending three 8B+/8C'; Peace Corps, Flip the Switch (FA) and Solar Plexus (FA).


Sébastien Berthe sends Orbayu (8c) MP

Sébastien Berthe sends Orbayu (8c) MP

Sébastien Berthe, who two weeks ago sent Rayu, including a flash of the hardest pitch which he gave a personal 8b+ grade, has done Orbayu (8c). Both 500-metre routes were done ground up in one day. So far in 2023, the Belgian has done La Rambla (9a+), sent 100 7A's in Font in one day and onsighted Ajo crudo (8c). (c) Erwan Rucay

"Last week I sent Orbayu in a day on Picu Urielu, Picos de Europa on my first ever day climbing on it. This 500m 8c multi-pitch is located on the West Face of Picu Urriellu, more commonly known as Naranjo De Bulnes in the Picos de Europa National Park, Spain. The 14-pitch line is in part a free version of Mediterraneo, an aid route established in 1980, and was first climbed free in 2009 by Iker Pou and his brother Eneko. Previous repeats were carried out by Nicolas Favresse and Adam Pustelnik in 2011, Cédric Lachat in 2014, Edu Marin in 2016, Gorka Karapeto in 2017, and Siebe Vanhee in 2020.

On Friday 25th of August, together with French climbers Soline Kentzel, Ugo Monier, Erwan Rucay (last two came to take pictures and climb a bit in the first pitches), we started on the first 7c pitch at 7:15 am. I climbed fast and strong through the first 4 pitches (graded 7c, 8a+, 8a and 7a, but are most probably easier than that) flashing or onsighting all of them. I arrived at the base of the crux pitch around 10 am, feeling fresh, confident and ready to try hard!

The only bad news: the weather was changing a lot, and clouds were dangerously coming closer and closer. The name of the route, “orbayu”, comes from the very typical low clouds coming from the ocean that are literally eating you: wet fog and not much visibility. The least we can say is that we had our dose of Orbayu that day! As soon as I started climbing on the 8c pitch, Orbayu clouds were on us.

My first flash go stopped quite fast: I fell at the crux due to a wrong beta. Then, I spent almost an hour finding my way up to the anchor and dialing the beta. After the crux, the final bit of the pitch has no bolts anymore and is quite tricky: quite physical climbing, slippery pockets (pinscars where aidclimbers would put pegs), hard to protect,... Back down to the belay, I felt confident and optimistic about my chance of success that day.

Unfortunately, my second attempt didn’t really go as expected: the clouds were soaking us… Rock was still dry, but ropes, draws, skin were wet. Rope drag was terrible due to water on the rope, I slipped once, I slipped twice, but stayed somehow on the wall. But after a battle on the crux, this try ended badly: I fell at the last move of the section with a split fingertip, a bloody wound on my index finger.

The orbayu was coming in and out and it was impossible to predict when it would be time to climb. After a really long rest, I put some tape on my finger and I went for the third try. It ended the same way as the 2nd. Things were going bad and my chances of doing it were decreasing drastically…

I felt tired and pessimistic. But Soline, Ugo and Erwan were so happy and psyched! The mood was great and I can only recommend you to bring in your own multipitch project 🙂 I decided to give it a last go, just for the game. The climbing was hard, I was slow and weak. skin hurt. The crew was cheering so much. The battle was on! Somehow, thanks to those guys, I climbed my way through the crux. I now needed to stay really calm and focused. I took my time and fought so hard in the final section, feeling tired and pumped. What a moment to finally clip the anchor after about 30min of fight! Wow, I couldn't really believe what I had just done… It was 5pm (spent about 6-7 hours on that pitch) and we had to be fast: there were 10 more tricky pitches on gears… I onsighted the following 8a and Soline and I kept moving slowly (quite easy climbing but interesting protection and itinerary) to the top of Picu Urielu! “Cumbre” above the clouds, it was 11 p.m. We finally reached the parking lot at 3am, getting lost a few times in the very wet clouds on the way down… Ugo and Erwan were still waiting for us with food, grateful! A nice 21hours-day! Thanks to Soline, Erwan, Ugo, Siebe, Nolwen, Kico and Alvaro!

Note: Hard for me to give an honest opinion about the grade of the crux pitch. Conditions were probably not optimal and I struggled quite hard… Previous climbers gave it around 8c. Compared to the other sport climbs I’ve done around here, it felt similar to the 8c’s I’ve tried. Still, I would not be surprised if it was 8b+. It is probably harder than the crux pitch of Rayu. Anyway, another great climb out there!"

Roxane Durand sends her first 8c at 38!

Roxane Durand sends her first 8c at 38!

Roxane Durand, who did her first 8b at age 34 , and three 8B+'s already this year, has sent Agressif you want (8c) in La Ramirole. (c) Gilles Photography

"A physical, powerful, and methodical path. I put my fingers on it at the end of summer 2021, at first it was abusing me, but today I tamed it! 6 sessions in 2021, 7 in 2022 post-school recovery, and 6 this year to clip this much coveted belay.

My first real 8c, here's the secret recipe: 1 - In the heatwave, return to your post-injury recovery project 2 - Realising we can still move 😊 3 - Lose 20°c in 2 days --> Monostopper the track 4 - Embark with the golden Marjorie Juarez for a day session from Nice, the very last day of my holidays 5 - Whistle at the chain 🤩🥳🎉"

Can you tell us about your climbing background and how you live your daily climbing life?
I started in 2000 and have climbed more and more often over the years. I spent 10 years living near Fontainebleau but I'm more a cliff climber.

I am a Physical Education teacher in high school and since 5 years I live in Nice and have enough free time to climb 3 or 4 times a week on the many crags around Nice like Gorges du Loup, Peillon, Castillon... The climate of the region really allows you to climb in pleasant temperatures 365 days a year 🙂

Megos flashes four 8B's in Norway

Megos flashes four 8B's in Norway

Alex Megos reports on Instagram from his impressive 12-day trip to Vingsand and Hell. In total, he sent 20 boulders 8A to 8B+, and a 9a, including four 8B flashes; The Bavarian, Verden på Lørdag, Hulefesten and Ormen Lange. (c) Dinosaauuur

Can you tell us more about your trip and the quality of the boulders in Vingsand?
It was truly amazing to spend a bit of time in Vingsand! The quality of the boulders is stunning. The rock is very similar to the rock around Flatanger, so everyone who has been there knows, it doesn't get much better. The place itself with all its Fjords and small towns is absolutely beautiful. Despite the world class boulders there are not many people though. In my eyes, the potential for new stuff (boulders and routes) is still huge. It just needs a few motivated people with some time.

Tanguy Merard ticks Beyond 9a (+)

Tanguy Merard ticks Beyond 9a (+)

Tanguy Merard has completed the second ascent of Seb Bouin’s Beyond 9a (+) in Pic St Loup. With this redpoint, the 19-year-old has done seven routes 9a and harder in just the last month. (c) Igor Martinez

"It was Seb Bouin's video in Beyond integral 9b/+ which made me made me want to go climb there. I visited the place for the first time last week when the temperature was 40 degrees. Although it was not very enjoyable, it gave me an opportunity to practice my methods and discover a great new route. I returned for two days to make some attempts in the first part (9a+). I made some good attempts and successfully passed the first boulder step [crux] (7C+), but unfortunately, I fell in the second boulder, not far from the final jug.

I then came back when the temperatures dropped and it was 40km/h of wind and it felt 10° so it changed completely. It [just so] happened on the first run of the day, everything was perfect, I was in good shape, well rested and I had good methods. I succeeded in the crux then I continued on this magnificent tufa to reach the chain, it was really pleasant I was able to appreciate the ascent on these last meters of colours. I really enjoyed climbing and that's what's cool. Now back to Grenoble for the start of the school year and back to the bouldering and training to get back in shape for the big project, the Pamphlet in Entraygues."