Michele Reusa, who has previously done three 8c', has done the FA of Up forever 8c+ in Falesia del ghëddo after just three sessions. "It is made up of two parts, a fairly easy first part of 8a to the fifth quickdraw and then there are long moves on small holds as you continue and you feel more and more pumped until the last crux which makes the grade. I hope someone comes to try it to find out their opinion. I think I just needed so few sessions because I feel very fit."
The 14-year-old was #6 in the European Youth Championship last week. Last month, his younger brother Matteo became the second in the family, after his father Iuri, to do an 8c+ by repeating Bucking Bronco. The whole family is developing Falesia del Ghëddo in Piedmont together. Currently, there are some ten routes but they aim for 30 routes almost 20 meters high.
Philipp Gaßner did the 27th repeat of Action Direct, generally considered the first 9a in the world, two weeks and commented.
"Psyched to have finally climbed that one. I’ve wanted to do it for a long time but somehow I’ve only spent there a couple of days over the past few years. This spring I was super excited to give it a serious go. And on the fourth day of this season, I did it with great support from my friends. There is not much left to say about the route. This thing is just absolutely iconic and it‘s still a difficult test piece. Looking forward to moving on to the next projects!"
What was hardest for you redpointing it?
The hardest was to be that certain mental state to be able to climb the route because I knew I was strong enough to do so. Just focusing on the very next move and not trying to calculate if I can send it or not. And even though there was a little mistake during the send go I did not let go.
Irina Kuzmenko has done Eliksir molodosty natoshak which her boyfriend Vadim Timonov put up as an 8A+ in
Triangular lake. "In my opinion that’s one more like 8B. Too hard for 8A+ but so nice one!" The Russian, who got the bronze in the Euro Championship in 2019, has previously done twelve boulders 8A to 8B.
"It took two very short and two quite long sessions. During the first two sessions, it was no chances to make one separate move and it felt like “hmmm what I am doing here, maybe I should try something different”. Then I came back again, did all the moves in 20 mins, and decided to rest for recovery. This boulder is crimpy and the hold is sharp and usually, you need two days to make skin good again. So after 2 days I just came back and did it very quickly! So happy :-)"
If you can do 8B so quickly, it should be possible to do at least 8B+?
I already did one session in an 8B+ and did all the moves in 40 mins 😅 so maybe you’re right!🥰
Maya Ene (11) has had a good week doing God’s Own Stone 8b+ and Swingline 8b in Red River Gorge. During the last three months, the 137 cm tall and 30 kg, has also done two 7C+'. Her father Ionel (46), finished his World Cup career in 1999 by being #19 in Speed and #43 in Lead in the World Championship. His personal best 8c, he did in 2003 and recently he also did God's Own Stone.
"Both, my wife and I have been climbing for 30 years, so Maya was exposed to climbing at an early age. Plus, we own a small climbing gym in New Jersey so it seemed like just a matter of time before Maya started to take climbing more seriously. About three years ago I participated in a Psicobloc competition in Canada. She was so amazed by the cheers of the crowds that she decided to be "as strong as my father" as she would say. The determination of getting stronger grew bigger month after month. About six months ago, we went to a local bouldering area and she was able to hold very tiny crimps (the size of the edge of a credit card), so we decided to have her try harder stuff. She went from 5.13a (7c+) to 5.14a (8b+) (God's Own Stone) in five months.
Maya doesn't have a particular climbing training routine, however, we are both climbing three times a week. We take any occasion to climb outside since this is what we enjoy the most. While she does both, sport and bouldering, I believe she has a predilection for sport. It's amazing to see your child climb as strong as you."
Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi, who did his first 9a at age 13, has done the first repeat of Alex Megos Turkish Haircut 9a in Citdibi, after some 12 days projecting during two trips. "Puff, it was a long story with shattered skin, damaged tendon and tons of Footslips. So glad to finish this line, a really cool and unique climb!" (c) David Kaszlikowski/Verticalvision.pl
On Insta he describes the whole process taking it down. The 16-year-old has been travelling together with his parents for several years. "I have this separate homeschooling class. The school gives us works to do to get the annual grades, we have deadlines for them and we should fit in. We study and search for materials on our own or with help of side teachers)."
Marcello Bombardi, who won one World Cup in 2017, has done the third ascent of Lapsus in Andonno giving it a 9a+ personal grade. Stefano Ghisolfi put it up in 2015 and it is an extension to Noia. The first repeat was done by Adam Ondra. Marcello has previously done five 9a's out of which four the last year. (c) Enrico Veronese
"So happy and relieved that my longest battle with a route so far is over! This route challenged and taught me a lot and I'm grateful for that! About the grade... I was able to use a kneebar that allows to recover before the last final boulder. It is not an easy kneebar, especially coming from below with a tired leg, but I think it could take away the full grade. I'm not good with grades and I've never even done more than 9a so this comes just from my consideration. Future repeaters will tell!"
How many sessions did it take in total and did you have to do any special training?
It took me 20 days spread over 4 months. I already climbed years ago Anaconda which is the 8c route in which Lapsus ends. Then last October I started to try Lapsus. The only special training I've done was about the kneebar. I've spent some session wandering around the gym and trying the most difficult kneebars. Everything else was just normal training for the competitions and trying Lapsus.
On Insta, he gives more details, "It has been a long adventure, the longest I have spent so far on a single route and it has put me to the test. From believing to be able to do it quickly, to changing the method too many times to find the most efficient one, to walking to the crag with snowshoes and half a meter of snow to take advantage of the last days of the winter season, to returning to spring and fall on the top several times on the same move, to losing enthusiasm due to skin pain caused by the very abrasive rock of the first part of the route, to getting with the final jug in front of the eyes but not being able to pull and grab it and, yesterday, to finally be able to commit the final jump and clip the chain."
Claudia Ghisolfi has done her first 8c+, Noia in Andonno. Seve Scassa put it up as the first 8c+ in Italy in 1993. Claudia started working on it last November and continued projecting in April. The Italian, who is sister to Stefano, started doing World Cups in 2013 and 15 times she has made the semi. (c) Enrico Veronese
Are you planning to continue doing World Cups?
I don't know my shape in comp style but maybe I'll do some comps this June and July but then I think I'll start to work and I'll just dedicate climbing in crags 😊😊
by 8a Founder and Editor-in-Chief Jens Larssen including also Analyses, Reviews, Training, Polls and Opinions etc.
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