NEWS

Ramon Julian has made the FA of Bi Herri, Borroka Bat 9a in La Cova de'locell which is his 35th 9a and harder, out of which 11 FA, since 2002. During the last year, he has done seven 9a's and two 9a+' making it his best year ever for the 33 year old. The 159 cm Spaniard has been the best Lead Competition climber in the world during the last ten years.

Nalle Hukkataival has done Gioia 8C (+)

Nalle Hukkataival has done the third ascent of Christian Core's Gioia 8C in Varazze from 2008 which later Adam Ondra has suggested 8C+ for in 2011. If Nalle also goes for 8C+ it will be the hardest repeated boulder in the world. Core has said it might be 8C+ as some guys have speculated but he did choose to put a hard grade in order to avoid the risk of down grading. Nalle has been of the leading boulderer in the world for ten years and in 2007 he was #2 in the European Championship. Since 2009, he has not done any WC's but set up several Amazing FAs up to 8C. What does this mean to you and what is next? "Gioia was definitely a big milestone in my climbing! Happy everything came together with conditions, skin and everything and I got to finish it! I think we're moving on to Switzerland tomorrow and Font in a couple weeks.Scott Noy

8A+ by Katharina Posch (19)

Katharina Posch has done her first 8A+, Diaphanous sea in Hueco Tanks. "I tried it for 2 days and it was all about one far move into a jug." Katharina is part of the Austrian competition story and she has eleven Euro youth cup victories and in 2011, she was #5 in the world championship being only 17 years old. In 2014, she will do all Lead WC's and the boulder event in Innsbruck.

Piotr Schab has finished his trip to Margalef in good style onsighting Súper Vixens 8b (+) and redpointing Pal norte 8c+. The 17 year old has making head lines since he did Era Vella being 15 years old.

Woods and Wurm/Puccio USA Boulder Champions

Daniel Woods took his 8th straight win in the USA Boulder Championships and he won all three rounds. " The comp was good! Didn't really prepare for it (climbed outside for the last 2 months) but felt motivated. The problems were fun to climb on. Still deciding if I do WCs this year. Might do the world championships." #2 was Vasya Vorotnikov followed by Andy Lamb. Among the female, Juliane Wurm from Germany won ahead of Alex Puccio, USA Champ fo the 8th time, followed by Megan Mascarenas and Margo Hayes, both being 16 years old. From the complete results, we can see that all the Top-10 male and Top-4 female are 8a members :)

Two weeks ago, Giuliano Cameroni (16) became the youngest to have done an 8C through The Story of Two Worlds. Since then and despite bad conditions, he has done six 8A's and harder including the flash of The arete with the pocket 8A. In total, he has done 62 boulders and harder the last year which probably just puts him on the Top-10 list in the world. Not bad for being 16 years old.

ABS Nationals LIVE!
22 February 2014

ABS Nationals LIVE!

Watch LIVE coverage of the 2014 American Bouldering Series National Championships live at 17.00 Euro time, to see the qualification round, semi finals, and finals! Full playbacks available here

Karin Magog has done Tequila Sunrise 8a (7c+) in Chulilla. "Sustained start into hard to read crux. Steady head wall to a techy finish - only just made the span!" The 40 year old seems to be in her best shape ever, having done five 8a's during the last month out of which two onsight.

50+ days on but no 9b cigar for Midtbö

Magnus Midtbo has now spent some 50+ days over three years and fallen 40 times on the crux of Sharma's Neanderthal 9b in Santa Linya. The biggest obstacle has actually been wet holds and, lately, also temperature up to 25 degrees making it only possible for one evening push per day. (c) Henning Wang Previously, Magnus has done 12 9a's and harder including Ali Hulk sit start extension 9b. For 12 straight years, Magnus has been a very successful competition climber and in 2011 he was #4 in the World Championship. Please give us some insight of your big project? It starts with a 7b+ up to a no hands rest and then it is like a sustained hard 9a up to the crux. The crux is like a 7C+ boulder followed by an 8c to the top where actually Chris fell once. The problem now is that I get wet fingers and hands going into the crux. Having to stop in some of the hardest moves to dry my hands and chalk up costs a lot of energy. In addition I keep getting cuts in several of my fingers causing me to slip out of the holds I´m jumping from on the crux dyno. When I was younger it was more important for me to do routes quickly. Now I find it more interesting to push my limit to see what my body is capable of. It can be a frustrating process but I think I will grow as a climber. What is the next goal once you have done it? There will be a lot of competitions this summer and autumn. I am excited to try Jumbo Love (9b) when I am finished here. I have spent so much time in Spain so it would be nice to have a project in another place.

By clicking on Crags, you will get a list of all the Crags which have some Left-to-Right topos finished. By scrolling down, you can see which sectors have been sorted and are ready to be down loaded in your 8A topo App. The webmaster has also made it possible to quicker add sectors to all ascents and we can provide you with a special log-in to edit spelling and sectors. In order to create a topo, which takes like 10 - 15 min, log-in here with your normal 8a password. Just drag the routes up and down to create a Left-to-Right topo list.