NEWS

James Webb does 8B+ (C), flashes 8A+ (B) and a 8A+ Semi-OS

James Webb has had yet another amazing day in Chironico where he did Insanity of Grandeur for which he gives a personal 8B+ grade. "8C in a day sounds dope but for me personally I think this one sits more in the 8B+ realm... one of the most amazing climbs I've done! This one is a really nice endurance style problem using all kinds of crazy beta." The best flash boulderer in the world did also flash two 8A+, Delusions of Grandeur (originally 8B) and Cat on a thin roof low which some would consider as an onsight as he did it without any beta at all. Here is an recent nice interview we found on the internet. His girlfriend Kasia Pietra, also had a great day doing her sixth 8A, The Arete With the Pocket. "She is killin it :)

The Story... 8C by Toru Nakajima (20)

Toru Nakajima, who has previously done two 8C's, recently did The Story of Two Worlds, 8C in Cresciano, although it had almost 20 degrees. In total it took him seven sessions. He will stay in Europe for two more weeks. " I think there are not same type boulder in the world and I am glad to do such a boulder. Amazing!

Six 8a to 8b OS by Matéo Laporte (16)

Mateo Laporte has had a very good trip to Geyik Bayiri where he onsighted six 8a and harder including Olympos Games 8b. In 2012, Mateo was #6 in the European Championship.

Paul Robinson in Red Rocks - A potential new Mecca

Paul Robinson who has set up a dozen 8B+ and harder around the world says that Red Rocks could be another mecca also for hard core bouldering. His latest 8B+ FA there is Trieste, see picture by Devlin G. "The line is one of the coolest boulders I have ever climbed. It is almost 7 meters tall and has both a hard overhanging section and a technical slab at the top that is committing and scary. The beginning is the crux and requires a lot of power but also has bad slippery feet that are hard to keep on! It's kind of like Australia. There are all these different valleys and you have to explore them all to find the best rock. It's a pretty sick place. A lot of potential. Just gotta search for it. In the end of his Red Rocks video, he has some great footage of this amazing problem.

Barbara Zangerl does Prinzip Hoffnung 8b+ trad <font color="red">*Interview</font>

Barbara Zangerl, who has been on the cutting edge in bouldering, multi-pitches and sport climbing, has done Prinzip Hoffnung 8b+ trad in Bürser Platte. "It was like a roller coster the last days. Often I felt so close to climb this route. In fact I had one fall after another. Today finally the luck was on my side and i sent it. A little dream come true. Thanks to Jacopo for the support. THANKS to Beat Kammerlander for opening this incredible trad climb." In total, Babsi had 8-9 falls up to 10 metres after having been really close actually on her first try. "The next sessions after were more head challenging..." Good preparation as she on Monday goes to Indian Creek for one month trad climbing. Click here to read the short interview we had with her right after she left Oliana -where she sent three 8c's-.

Art and Science of Bouldering  - Udo Neuman

Udo Neuman, a climbing and training fanatic who has been on the forefront since 1992 when he published Performance Rock Climbing, has done it again with - The Art and Science of Bouldering. It is an interactive e-book on 237 pages where he shares his bouldering philosophy and his latest advanced training tips and terminology. Buy it here for Euro 26. Udo is the trainer of the Germans Jan Hojer and Jule Wurm, two of the very best boulderers in the world both on rock and in competitions. In his advanced book you can start reading anywhere getting some interesting thoughts on ethics, grading and of course training and 8a is mentioned several times. "Since 15 years 8a.nu has established itself as THE internet platform for all things climbing and bouldering. Ideas and concepts, especially if it comes to "Evaluating climbing performance" are discussed controversially here - and that is a good thing in my "book"!

First 8A by Patti Wohner (40)

Patti Wohner has after 18 years of climbing made her first 8A, Gross's Roof in Cumberland. The 40 year old, started to do her first proper training just 8 months ago when she moves to Chattanooga. Before she had mainly been a weekend warrior living three hours from any good crags. "I credit my progress to training my weaknesses which for some reason had never occurred to me to do, I always focused on my strengths until I read Dave MacLeods book 9 out of 10 climbers. I saw women who were doing a lot with power and so I focused on power.

Jan hojer has done his second 8C FA in Fontainlebleau, Le Marathon de Boissy 8C. In total, the 186 cm and 78 kilo power house, has done five 8C's out of which four in Font. Last year, Jan won one World Cup Boulder.