NEWS

Safer handling of the Grigri

Based on 1 100+ unique votes we can see that more climbers have started to use the feeding out rope technique which Petzl suggested three years ago. Originally Petzl suggested a technique that almost nobody did use. Later Petzl changed their recommendation to a technique presented by 8a which still is equally used. The good thing is that it seems all the bad Grigri accidents have more or less disappeared. Climb safe! 37 % Exactly as in the picture 37 % Fingers around the rope and the whole Grigri 26 % Thumb on the brake, no rope safety

The Story... 8C by Giuliano Cameroni (16)

Giuliano Cameroni has done Dave Graham's The Story of 2 Worlds 8C in Cresciano from 2005 which might be the most known boulder in the world. The name was a statement to the previous grade inflation which actually made the it stop. It is a sit start to The Dagger 8B (+) making it to a great spectacular roof boulder. "Yes! Unbelievable! This problem is one of the most complete I have ever seen. In the morning, the end was completely wet, but luckily in the afternoon it was almost dry. 3rd go today and falling down at the end on the first and the second try cause I slipped with the hand and the hook. but the battle against this boulder is not finish, on the other side there is Dreamtime!" Giuliano, 16, is the youngest to have done an 8C. Previously Adam was the youngest beeing 17.

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk has done Rumble in the Jungle 8A (+) in Hueco Tanks. It was set up by Fred Nicole in 2001 and with 60 ascents in the 8a data base, it is one of the most popular hard boulders in the world. Mina: "V11/12 depending on height. This was so satisfying as it became a bit of a battle!! Such a good day!" In total Mina has done eight boulders 7C+ to 8A+ during the last two weeks.

weBee from Ocun
10 February 2014

weBee from Ocun

The latest harness from Ocun is their innovaitiveweBee made of a performarated 3D foam (patent pending), which makes breathable, washable and even with a wide waist as well as adjustable leg loops it is only 370 grams. Overall it is very comfortable and as always with Ocun products, it comes with a good price value at around Euro 50. Here a video presentation and here some more detailed info.

Giuliano Cameroni (16) - Fanatic boulderer

Giuliano Cameroni started climbing before walking and he has beside six weeks of hang boarding, last autumn, only climbed outside beside when the weather is bad. ""Haha, now I try to climb as much as possible outside, even if the weather is terrible: sometimes I'm alone, but it still super cool! My mother drive me to the crag and then I take the bus in the night back home". He did his first 8A when he was ten and also some route climbing but as he thinks it is scary to fall, his focus is bouldering. For 20 months ago he had a finger injury which made him stop climbing for five months and since then, he has had an extreme progress. Last week, the 179 cm tall, speed climbed The Stoy of 2 Worlds, Video. The 16 year old, living in Ticino, is working on several classical 8B+ and 8C projects."It's going to be cool also to do some competitions this summer. But for that I will do some few weeks of indoor preparation.

Nina Caprez climbs hard in Montserrat

Nina Caprez has been one of the female climbing stars for many years and she has performed in all disciplines including comps and big walls. So what have you been up to lately? "I'm moving around in Spain for climbing and a talk (Andorra) these last days. I've been climbing in two different sectors in Montserrat. The first day I was climbing in the sector Agulla del Senglar, where I was able to do 7c+, 8a and 8a+ on-sight and yesterday I managed an 8b and 8b+, both on my second try. Magic place, magic people and dream lines!!!;-) Later this spring, she tells us that she will try Orbayu, the famous MP set up by the Pou brothers, together with Cedric Lachat which they have speculated to be 8c/+.

UKC reports that Dai Koyamada has done yet another 8C FA, Vanitas. "I completed my 4 years project at Mt. Horai, Japan on 6th February. The line is something like "Frankenjura style" with small crimps and pockets." Dai has been one of the leading boulderers for ten years and he has done some 30 8C's. In the late 90-ies, Dai did eleven Lead WC's where he four times made it to the final. Later he did routes up to 9a but he is most famous for all his hard bouldering including the FA of The Wheel of Life 8C in 2004 and his laying FA start to The Story of two World's 8C+.

8 February 2014

Albarracin by EpicTV

"RC helicopters the future of climbing films"

G Bruce Wilson from Three Peak Films with many videos presented by EpicTV believes aerial drone will be the future for climbing videos. Check their Aerial Reel 2014 "The RC helicopter industry has been exploding and making it more affordable than ever to get aerial shoots of all almost all adventure sports. It will become more and more common as time goes on that low budget adventure film makers will be using these drones providing a higher production value to even the most simple video. I think within five years they will be used to film almost all notable ascents and be almost as common as you see people with digital single lens cameras at the crag. More and more hobbyists will use them to make their own climbing videos.

Karin Magog has onsighted her seventh 8a, Sostres o dans le toit in Masriudoms. "Very steep and burly, not my usual style so well chuffed to onsight this." The good news is that all her 8a onsights, she has done the last 18 months. Her first 8a redpoint, she did in 1998 when she was 25 years old.