NEWS

Francis Sanzaro, who has published A Philosophy for Bouldering (Stone Country Press, 2013), shares his thoughts on what kind of boulders will be the first graded 9A. What do you think? "Are the hardest boulders the ones not with a specific style, but with many styles "within" a problem? I wager that those who are able to climb at the limit of their style and also work on their practice until they can climb at the limit in their non-style, will send the first 9A. It is this type of problem that will see fewer repeats than the problem which gets worked on for years by someone, since being able to have no style is more difficult than working your style to the limit.

9a+ in Oliana by Ramonet

Ramon Julian has after six tries over three days done Power Inverter 9a+ in Oliana which was open by Chris Sharma in 2010. In total, the 159 cm tall, has done ten 9a+ during the last eleven years and he has won 20 World Cups including one Euro and two World Champions. Combining rock and competitions, Ramonet has been the most successful climber the last 12 years.

"Topping out" by down climbing hang

Sidney Trinidad won the USA bouldering nationals youth B in a superior style. Her she is "topping out" one spectacular problem that finished with several down climbing moves. The guys did it by hanging in their toes... click on the picture to see how amazed the route setter was. (c) @justfab Video Mirko Caballero, who also won, explains the problem, "Well the start hold was at the same height than the finish to the left. You had to climb up (you can see some of the holds to the right of Sidney. Then came the sequence where you had to jump down onto the big volume. The jump was committing as you had to let go both hands to land onto the downward slope." Complete results

The quickest way to add popular ascents is to start writing the crag or sector name in the "Search & Add Ascent" box up to the right. You will come to the Tick List of the Crag/Sector and then it is just to find your climb and click Add. The most popular way to add ascents is to click "Add" in the member section to the right. Then you can write the name and crag yourself and add many details directly. We also have the "Add Via Mobile" possibility where you can easily add ascents fast via your mobile. You can also add ascents via our 8a App.

8C in Font by Iker Arroitajauregi

Iker Arroitajauregi has after six days of projecting made the third ascent of Jan Hojer's Jour de Chasse 8C in Fontainebleau. The 36 year old has previously done one 8C, Txapela and numerous 8B+'s. Interview in spanish with many videos.

Great innovative locking carabiner from Edelrid

There exist probably a dozen different innovative locking carabiners, beside the original screw carabiner. Actually, most companies in the industry have presented technically nice advanced ideas trying to optimize the overall handling/safety issues. All of them are 20 - 200 % more expensive, except the brand new Strike Slider from Edelrid which is actually cheaper than the original screw carabiner. The Edelrid innovation presented at Friedrichshafen is also the smallest, lightest and quickest to clip in on the market. In the beginning, it feels pretty scary to use as it is so slim and that it so easy to open. You just put your thumb on the outside lock and drag it down two mm to unlock it. It is almost as easy to open as you open your quick draw gate when you put it in the bolt hanger! In theory, of course a screw carabiner is normally a bit safer. As a matter of a fact, the safety focused climber could actually use the Strike Slider on both ends of the quick draw as it works great also clipping in the rope.

Moritz Perwitzschky has done Ronin 8b+ (c) in Frankenjura. "First 8c :)! 5th go, maybe 8b+, but nevertheless nice 3D- roof-climbing with one hard bouldery section." In January, the 14 year old, onsighted four 8a's in Geyik Bayiri.

Frankenjura is the epicentrum in the world with 100 routes 8c and harder. However, when it comes to recorded ascents during the last year, four spanish crags, within two hours from Lleida, are in top of the list. 86 Rodellar 82 Siurana 79 Margalef 73 Oliana 53 Frankenjura

Three 8c's by Barbara Zangerl in Oliana

Barbara Zangerl reports on facebook has done the three classic 8c's; Fish Eye, T1 Full equip and Mind Control that might be 8c+. (c) Jacopo Larcher (Who onsighted two 8b+; China Crisis and Gorilas en la Niebla). "I think T1 Full Equip is easier....8b+ (for sure not harder). I really enjoy the time here in Oliana. It's my first visit. I will go back home to Austria on Tuesday and my next plan is trying Prinzip Hoffnung (8b+ trad) again. Its just next to my flat." Some years ago, Barbara was one of the best female boulderers in the world but after a back injury she has been focusing on sport and multi pitches also being one of the best in the world. Last year, she finished the alpine trilogy by doing the first female ascent of the MP Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+.

Boulder sitstart ethics and controvercies

The most frequent comments and complaints we receive, and also the most well known boulder controversy ever, (The Story of 2 Worlds, see picture) relate to sit starts ethics. What seems a simple and logical definition, starting sitting on one pad, are sometimes twisted and pushed, creating different prerequisites and even grades. The sit start ethical problems relate mainly to boulders where the reach and different starting positions have an impact on the grade. Good style and ethics mean that you should start sitting using the same holds as the FA. Sometimes, a shorter boulderer needs to stack pads in order to reach the only starting position. Bad style and ethics relate to when taller guys stack up more pads compared to shorter guys, especially if it also comes with a personal down grade, making the honest sitting guys, soft graders.