NEWS

Aris explains why a free App is included in the new Kalymnos topo
- I had thought about making a digital version of the guidebook for a long time. Many climbers approached me over the years for collaboration, but at the time I felt it was premature to make an app, while I also was afraid an app would take sales away from the print guidebook which I worked so hard for. But now I think the time is right to make an app that will complement the print guidebook. When Vertical Life approached me we had very good rapport, I liked the quality of their work, and other guidebook authors I respect had already collaborated with them, so my decision was made. Here you can preorder it for 40 + 8 Euro including freight It should be noted that the last guide book from 2010 had 1 700 routes and the 2015 version 2 700.

HISTORY. HAS. BEEN. MADE! Meet your first American Ninja Warrior!

Posted by Ninja Warrior on Monday, September 14, 2015

9a+ by Sacchi Amma
17 September 2015

9a+ by Sacchi Amma

Sachi Amma, who has a goal of doing ten routes 9a and harder in 2015, just did his ninth, Jungle Boogie 9a+ in Cรฉรผse. (c) Luka Fonda From Facebook: "I send Jungle Boogie!!!!! Finally... I still can not believe it happened. It is raining heavily right now. Tomorrow I go to Germany. I got a last chance. It was a miracle!" Sachi stopped competing in 2014 after having been on the podium in 14 out of the last 15 Lead World Cups.

8B by Isabelle Faus who goes to #1 in the game
Isabelle Faus, who did her first 8B+ last month, continues to deliver with The Shining 8B in RMNP. In the female ranking game, she was #2 after Alex Puccio for quite some time and now she is the tied #1 and actually #35 among the male. (c) Chad Greedy "Really psyched! first try from the start yesterday, tried it the last few years tho, can't really remember anything ever, but probably more than 5 days, and less than 10 haha. great boulder, super steep, powerful, sustained, pretty perfect, props to my hommie Jimmy Webb for putting it up!"

Caprez and Zangerl do 420 m of an 8b+
Planet Mountain reports that Nina Caprez and Barbara Zangerl have done Die Unendliche Geschichte, a 420 m long 8b+ put up by Beat Kammerlander in 1990 and only repeated once by Pietro dal Pra. (c) Robert Bรถsch Barbara started out getting head lines for boulder ascents up to 8B meanwhile Nina made routes up to 8c. During the last year they have been challenging the hardest multi pitches in the world, almost equal to the top male and Nina comments. "In my eyes there is no difference between girls and boys, especially on vertical and technical faces like the ones in Rรคtikon. There is only one difference that matters and it's between the first ascent and all that follow. Redpointers are always in the privileged position, they already know that the route is possible to climb."

New Kalymnos topo including a free App
The new Kalymnos topo with 448 pages including some 2700 routes is at the printer's. The majority of photos and photo-topos are new, and in addition to the practical information about each crag (shade, exposure, approach etc) little extras, like GPS coordinates to each crag, have been added. The biggest change, however, is that you will also get a code for a free App, that has been created in cooperation with Vertical-Life. Matthias Polig invented the Zlagboard and started Vertical Life almost three years ago with the plan to contact the local topo authors and offer to be their publishing house including a topo App. - Being the local topo producer of the South Tyrol topo I know how much hard work these guys put in and also that they help rebolting etc. At the same time, the locals are threatened by topo companies who just fly in and copy old topos as well as by user generated web topos. We believe that digital publishing has a great future, especially in the outdoor area. Together with locals all over the world, we are creating a global digital climbing guide. The Vertical-Life Climbing app is a comprehensive mobile guide to the best crags, boulders and multipitches. In addition to our own climbing guides, we cooperate with local authors and digitalize their guidebooks.

Isaac Caldiero wins Ninja Warrior and 1 millon USD
Isaac Caldiero, an active 8a member who has done two 8B+ FAs, has become the first out of 3 500 contestants during seven seasons of American Ninja Warrior and won 1 millon USD. DPM reports, "This was Caldieroย’s thirds season on the show and he trained hard this year to win. He reportedly built a replica of stage three in his backyardย—the upper body intensive crux of the four-stage event that had only been completed one time before by climber Brian Arnold.

Two 9a's in 3 days for Luis Alfonso Fรฉlix
luis alfonso felix himself declares to be on a winning streak since on September 3rd he emulated his friend and co-partner, Josรฉ Luis Palao 'Primo', in bolting of the line by also sending Seta Total (picยฉ Javi Pec ). "It's got a hard start, super bouldery with weird shouldery moves and being able to hit a two-finger pocket, then a transit zone with generous holds up to a fake rest which we know as 'los ojitos' ('little eyes'); from here to the chain there's a lot of power-endurance with big and morphological movements between two-finger pockets and crimps and, in the end, a thin headwall, Cuenca style, with a pumpy finish. Most of the route overhanhs around 40ยบ, it's got some 63 moves and, as I said before, two-finger pockets and crimps abound. The hardest thing is to correctly perform the first section so as to not squander too much power and properly rest in 'los ojitos'; that way you have chances to success on the morpho move at the lip." Three days later and also in Cuenca he managed to do the FA of Quassam Mix. He explained us about the route's name and grading: "It's located in Valdecabras Sur, it's next to 'Palestina' 8c+/9a, it shares a little section with 'Vivir en la Ignorancia' 8b+ and then it ends up by a super aesthetic wall by where the original harder line bolted by 'Primo', 'Qassam' 9a/+?, passes. Since we're still trying that original route, we conceived this 'easy' variation which weights in at around 8c+ or 8c+/9a. I'm not sure. That day I was feeling super strong, so future repetitors will confirm it or not. Personally I feel it like 'Palestina'... maybe the question is what grade this later will be left... hahaha. Seriously talking, I feel they are the same grade. Other than that, it's a 5 stars line: super steep at the begining and with a power-endurance slightly overhanging part in the end, with distanced bolts and some air below your feet; all an ode to the 'courage'..." // Ignacio Sandoval Burรณn.

Review - OR's Helium II Jacket
The new Helium II jacket by Outdoor Research has been designed in a way that makes you not realise it's there until you need itย… It takes up less space than your chalk bag and weighs 180g (size L), which happens to be ideal to carry in your climbing/boulder backpack for those ย“just in caseย” moments. You can also hang it from your harness for those unexpected storms when youย’re in the middle of a multi-pitch route. Itย’s also suitable for trail runners. It's Pertex Shield + that has protected us from the rain and wind throughout long periods and although it lacks a specific breathability system, it transpires quite well. It has two pockets, one on the chest with a zip and an internal one which doubles as a stuff sack with a carabiner for clip-on convenience. The hood with a built-in visor is completely adjustable and compatible with the helmet. The OR logos (the big one when the jacket is packed in and the ones on the chest and arm) are reflective. On the downside, what weย’ve least liked about the jacket are the cuffs, they are not adjustable so unless youย’ve got very wide wrists they feel quite loose. They are available in an array of colours for both men and women. Mind you, buy it a size bigger if youย’re planning to wear it with something other than a t-shirt or a sweater. See more about it in this video.