Jose E. Agustí, who has done 750 routes 8a to 8c, has done his first 8c+ Massa Pelis in Sant Llorenç del Munt. (c) Marc Giol - I'm climbing since I was 15, when my father introduced me into this world. I immediately recognized that this sport was my live. I started climbing routes of about 8a at 19-year-old and in 2004 I did first 8c in Gandia (Malsoñando). I always prefer on sight climbing, in this style I've climbed till 8b (Alter ego, Rodellar), and I have managed to continue doing 8a's and 8a+ in this style. Two years ago I rebolted an ancient and forgotten project and this is what I've been doing this last two summers. Working this endurance route. David Gambus did the first ascent the last Monday two days later I completed my dream, my first 8c+! Next year I wanna try harder routes ant try to reach to the 9a before my 40.

Gabri Moroni has done Super Circo Abusivo 9a in Paline. "Beautiful long hard technical route from Berni Rivadossi! Tried a couple of times last year, three days this summer in heinous conditions and sent on the first day of good conditions! Very unexpected!" Gabri won the Youth World Championship in 2002 and in 2004, he was #3 in the European Bouldering Championship being 17 years old. During the last ten years, he has also been a world class climber and boulderer. The last year hje has done three 8B+ and one 9a+. The great picture from Paolo Sartori is from Margalef.

Edu Marin has done Cosi se Arete 9a in Rodellar and comments on Facebook. - One of the most beautiful routes in the area with almost 60 meters in total with an inconsiderable and demanding finish. A master piece by Sergio Casteran y Dani Andrada. After a long summer in the mountains I am more motivated than ever and with a nice feeling, already thinking about my next goal. (c) David Munilla

Nalle Hukkataival reports on Facebook that he has done the FA of The Stepping Stone 8C in Grampians and here is the video from his previous tries. "There are moments in life that are hard to write down in words. Yesterday was one of those moments. The last month of my life has completely revolved around climbing this one incredible project. Yesterday was just one more day trying the project and it wasn't going so well. All expectations were finally out the window and it was down to one last ditch effort. The sun was dipping down behind the horizon and painting the rock red. This would be my last try. The wind kicked up. I chalked my hands about a dozen times, like I do when I'm nervous, and pulled on the rock. I was climbing on total autopilot like I have many times through the sections. A series of screams of surprise and relief lead to the sight of my right hand grabbing onto the finishing hold! I climbed the V0 topout like it was V13. Right there, standing on top of that boulder watching the bright orange sunset could be the most memorable climbing experience of my life! Surely one of the very best lines I've ever opened; The Stepping Stone, somewhere around V15. Who even knows with the upper numbers anymore. Looking forward, I couldn't have asked for a better trainer for the Lappnor project! No time to waste, I'm flying to Finland in the morning to attack it full force again! Let's see if this was the extra kick I needed to finally get the Lappnor project done! Amazing times in Australia!! SWOOOPPP!!!

The history of climbing changed somewhat when Adam Ondra entered the gigantic cave in Flatanger in 2012. Only three years later, most of the hard core celebrities visited it and everyone was blown away. For the landowner Olav Strøm and his wife Berit Hestnes everything changed upside-down. This August they had about 40 guests on and they are now personal friends with many of the best climbers in the world. The future looks bright and now there are some 250 routes in all grades within walking distance from their camping, where you have indoor accommodation and free WiFi. They have also started to offer more things like fishing gear, boat trips and they can drive you to the village for food shopping etc. But it is also about just chill out in Nature's bosom. Flatanger is located 180 km north from the Trondheim airport but with a bus and a taxi you arrive in the city within four hours for some 35 Euro! Beside that, everything is actually rather expensive in Norway but in the camping you can live low-budget. Dave Graham says it all, " I haven't felt this type of syke I'm experiencing since the first time I visited Céüse in 2001. Its crazy when you can notice the start of a new era in your own climbing; inspiration like this is only congruent with jaw dropping natural lines, and the best stone in the world. This is just the beginning; I feel giddy, infatuated, consumed, and unable to stop my mind from racing through beta and sequences of rigs I've already attempted or ones I dream of getting on next."

""We believe in our athletes. We support their vision with our products, tracing the path of evolution and innovation in the outdoor world. Each team member has a personal story of experience, passion and dedication as well as values which La Sportiva echoes. Each story is a reality of its own, every success comes from work and application. Our athletes explore the boudaries of the World looking for the next step in the evolution of their disciplines, with the inevitable consequence of being ambassadors of the growth of their community”."

Neil Gresham, one of the leading UK trad and sport climbers of the last 20 years, has made the FA of Premonition 8b+ at Kilnsey. It starts at the previous mixed Deja Vu E5 (in between the trees in the picture by Neil) established by Ron Fawcett and was protected with three threads in the start. There are 32 routes on the crag out of which almost all are bolted. Having been given the OK from the FA, Neil replaced the threads with two bolts and also placed another bolt higher up, just to the side of the original line. For this Neil has been criticized by some, out of which the former UKC employee Mick Ryan was harshest, saying that he should chop the bolts. Neil called Mick asking for an explanation for his critical stand point, seeing as Mick himself did exactly the same thing on two routes 25 years ago, replacing threads with bolts. The only difference was that Mick had not been given an OK from the FA. Until now, there have been 304 posts in the UKC forum and Mick Ryan has been banned. 8a contacted Mick to get an opinion on why he was so critical towards Neil as he had done a worse thing 25 years ago. "Whether a bolt is placed, or taken out is always down to an individual action, an individual decision to act. Some may agree or disagree with the action. Some retrobolts stay in, some come out and that is decided by individuals. Anyone is free to do as they wish, just as Neil has done recently. He placed retrobolts. Some people disagree with that, some agree. He didn't ask the BMC for permission. When it comes to placing bolts or taking them out we only have our own authority. There is no-one telling you what to do, or not what to do.' Neil Gresham: 'The aim of the new bolts was to strike a compromise between the requirements of those climbing the original line and those wishing to climb the new Extension. These things are always difficult to resolve and it's impossible to please everyone. However, I firmly believe that the majority support this type of evolution. The way it's always been in the UK is that first ascentionists decide about any alterations to the fixed protection on a route, although in this case the critics have tried to claim otherwise simply because they disagree with what we've done.'

EPIC TV is the biggest video climbing media and their webshop is growing with low prices, and that includes the biggest brands. Solution (in the picture) is Euro 109 including free shipping. In fact, once you become a member you get 5 euro for free and then 10% lower prices. This means that new members pay euro 93.50 for Solution and then you get a 5 euro coupon. You can also buy ropes for under 100 euro, a Mammut harness for 45 euro, a Grigri for 69 euro and even get a quick draw from Climbing Technology for Euro 6.95! And do not forget that the prices are 10% lower for members. It seems, pretty much all brands are at sale there so check it out and start saving some money.

- I had thought about making a digital version of the guidebook for a long time. Many climbers approached me over the years for collaboration, but at the time I felt it was premature to make an app, while I also was afraid an app would take sales away from the print guidebook which I worked so hard for. But now I think the time is right to make an app that will complement the print guidebook. When Vertical Life approached me we had very good rapport, I liked the quality of their work, and other guidebook authors I respect had already collaborated with them, so my decision was made. Here you can preorder it for 40 + 8 Euro including freight It should be noted that the last guide book from 2010 had 1 700 routes and the 2015 version 2 700.