NEWS

Zunami 8C by Florian Schmalzl

Florian Schmalzl who has had some great progress the last years has done his first 8C, Zunami in Saalachtal which was set up by B Schwaiger in 2003. Florian (22) started to climb when he was 15 and bouldering when he was 18 years old and it took him ten days over three years to do it.

FA bonus increased to 30 and 20 points for routes & boulders

In order to give more credit to FA's we have doubled up the bonus points to 30 for routes and 20 to boulders. The onsight bonus for routes is 145 points and the flash bonus for boulders are 53 points. A second go ascents gives 2 points extra. The annual score is based on the Top-10 ascents. Have fun :)

Amazing support for GB WC bouldering team

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk started a crowd funding page two days ago for the GB WC bouldering team as a sponsor had to withdraw. Their target was 8 000 pound and now already 230 backers have raised 9 000 pound. Six backers have paid a total of 1 900 pound for a one hour coaching with either Mina or Shauna Coxsey. As there are many federation and competitors struggling with World Cup finance, this might be the way to go. Last year, Shauna was #4 and Mina #9 in the Bouldering World Cup which starts in less than four weeks in China.

Boulder topo for 10 unknown sand stone areas in France

Recently a new bouldering guidebook has been released including 10 lesser known sandstone bouldering areas in France. Those areas are located in the north of France around Reims in the Alsace, and in the south of France near Montpellier and the Rhone valley. 1440 problems are well illustrated and described in four languages for the real, authentic bouldering explorers. If you like bouldering on sandstone, this could just be the alternative you are looking for in the upcoming, overcrowded bank holiday weekends in Fontainebleau. More info and here you buy it for Euro 32.

8 Euro daily climbing tax in Spain and Greece

Based on the recent economical crises in Spain and Greece, the both governments have decided to collect Euro 8 daily climbing tax. The good news is that all 8a members will get a free climbing pass at a value of Euro 88 per year. The climbing tax will be collected at airports and at the immigrants desk. If you have not prepaid the tax and there is a control, you will have to pay Euro 100 or go to jail for one day. The controlling organisation, Lirpa Loof, says: "We will mainly work on the crags with the softest gradings as we know here is where most climbers go. We also know that many top climbers use campus board so we have installed them in some prisons near Oliana and on Kalymnos. Anybody who can do 1-4-7 is free to go.

Cathy Wagner has during the last three weeks done six 8a's and during the last year she has done 40 8a's and six 8a+'. This means that she by far is in her best shape ever, not bad for somebody being 48 years old and who did her first 8a being 30.

Left-to-Right topo update

Steve Golley continues to develop the sorter for making Left-to-Right topos. "The sorter should now add new routes from the scorecard to the bottom of the list if a crag has been sorted before, and you can add routes directly into the sorter. Here you can create topos. It just takes like 10 minutes and then it will be possible to down load in the 8A Topo App. You can also check the Crags list to see available topos. Steve already has a system for drawing topos on images and in later this will also be available to 8a members. Already, you can use the 8A Topo App to add routes to your scorecard - check it out both for iPhones and Androids.

Melloblocco 1-4 May

Melloblocco has since 2003 been the largest international bouldering meeting. Already more than 1 000 have signed up for the great event taking place 1-4 May in Val Masino, Italy. Several celebrities will compete on prize award boulders and have slide shows during the nights etc.

8th 8B+ and 8C in three weeks

James Webb continues his rampage in Switzerland by doing his 8th 8B+; New Base Line in Magic Woods. "Simply an incredible boulder from Bernd. Tried briefly last year but it felt so strange. This year was different and it went down fairly quick! Gotta love progression." James did his first 8B+ in 2010 and later he has done more every year and in total he has done 38 boulders 8B+ and harder out of which 22 the last year. Also for flash, James have had a similar dramatic progress with three 8B's and six 8A+ the last year. It should also be noted that James is the top climber giving most personal grades. The picture is from a restday in Florence together with his girl friend Kaisa Pietras, also an 8A boulderer.