NEWS

Sport climbing shortlisted for Tokyo 2020 Olympics
IFSC comes with the great news that sport climbing was shortlisted as one of five new sports for Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games. More info here. The Olympic medals will be given to the best Combined ranked climbers in three disciplines; Lead, Bouldering and Speed. In total 20 female and 20 male will be allowed to compete. Here are the results form an 8a poll based on some 4 000 unique votes. Which discipline in the Olympics 2020? Combined: Lead, Boulder and Speed 21 % Lead 15 % Bouldering 32 % Deep Water Solo 6 % Climbing should NOT be in the Olympics 25 %

28 September 2015

WC Puurs finals

Skofic and Kim win with four straight tops in Puurs
Domen Skofic and Jain Kim won with four straight tops making it possibly the best WC in 2015. (c) Slovenija Climbing Team 1. Domen Skofic SLO - Jain Kim KOR 2. Jakob Schubert AUT - Mina Markovic SLO 3. Ramon Puigblanque ESP - Anak Verhoeven BEL Complete results

Before the last, or actually the second last as Kranj is "Provisional", it is very much an open affair among the Top-4 male. If Adam Ondra wins in China, Gauthier has to be #4, Jakob Schubert #2 and Romain Desgranges 1. Gauthier Supper 357 - Mina Markovic 420 2. Jakob Schubert 327 - Jessica Pilz 345 3. Romain Desgranges 307 - Jain Kim 334 4. Adam Ondra 290 - Anak Verhoeven 290 5. Domen Skofic 282 - Helene Janicot 227 Among the female, Mina Markovic has already secured the title if there will be no WC in Kranja and otherwise, all Top-4 could challenge her. In theroy, this could mean the Slovenians are less interested to organize the last event in Kranj. On the other side, if Domen wins in China, he will have good chances to get the overall title and pleasing his home crowd in Kranj.

8B (+) by Alex Puccio 3 months after surgery
Alex Puccio has done Irreversible 8B (+) in RMNP and what makes it even more impressive is that only three months ago she had a knee surgery. In 2014, the 8a ranking game leader for five straight years, was #2 in the world championship. (c) Joel Zerr "FFA. I think 3rd ascent in total. Daniel (Woods) put it up last year and said it was 8B/+ and Dave (Graham) did after and said 8B+. My opinion is 8B, but I do think it is a bit harder than Freaks of the Industry. Nice line, this was my second day trying it, but I have climbed on a lot of the holds because of Freaks. I climbed it basically 2 times today. I was on the V1 top out and I got really pumped and cold so I climbed down since I still can't fall yet. Finished off a few tries later!!! ๐Ÿ˜„ It's been just about 3 months since my surgery. Happy to be climbing!! Thanks crew for all the help and support and Mike for the heel hook beta!

Macarenas and McColl won Adidas Rockstar
1. Sean McColl - Megan Mascarenas 2. Rei Sugimoto - Akiyo Noguchi 3. Jernej Kruder - Janja Garnbret What a great show! Megan Mascarenas won all three rounds, which happens extremely seldom, and then also the super final. In the final she actually did all four tops and Akiyo just two. Among the male, Sean McColl won as last year after having been #9, #5 and #1 in the final. Complete results Janja Garnbret on the great picture by E Holzknecht.

The fifth stage of the Lead World Cup takes place in Puurs, Belgium and there are 108 athletes registered to compete, which can be compared to 91 two years ago. For both male and female there is an open race for the title even if it has not been decided if this will be the second or the third last as Kranj is marked "provisional". Live streaming starts on Sunday at 10.00 with the semifinal, and the finals start at 5.00 pm.