NEWS

Based on close to 1 000 votes, (Favorite climbing clothes brand?), we can see so pretty dramatic changes compared to 2009. 29 % Prana (42 % 2009) 22 % E9 (14 %) 10 % La Sportiva - 07 % Moon (9 %) 07 % Mammut (7 %) 05 % Chillaz (3 %) 04 % Verve (6 %) 16 % Other (Nihil, The North Face and Adidas most mentioned)

3 April 2014

The 8B+ league

Here is the Top-10 list of which active 8a members have done the most 8B+ and harder. In brackets is the last 12 months figure which James Webb is in the lead. It should be noted that the list is based on personal gradings and even if all have done many, James and Adam are sticking out. 1. Daniel Woods 73 (14 last 12 months) 2. Paul Robinson 72 (15) 3. David Graham 65 (7) 4. James Webb 42 (22) 5. Bernhard Schwaiger 34 (1) 6. Adam Ondra 31 (4) 7. Carlo Traversi 20 (2) 8. Chris Webb-Parsons 19 (4) 9. Jan Hojer 17 (8) 10. Gui-Gui Mondet 15 (5)

Boreal's gathering in Chulilla + <font color="red">Interviews</font>

By mid March, Boreal gathered some of its most representative athletes in Albarracín and Chulilla. There we saw first hand how much their new climbing shoes line had improved. We took advantage of this opportunity to have a little chat with some of these climbers (Nacho Sánchez, Raquel Hernández and Edu Marín). Don't miss out on the interviews and the nice pictures shot by David Munilla in this article.

Barbara Raudner (41) does 8b+ in Oliana

Barbara Raudner, who started climbing when she was 28, has done Los Humildes Pa Casa 8b+ in Oliana. Fotocredit: Flo Murnig. More great pictures at Barbara's blog. "Los Humildes Pa Casa is such an amazing route, for me one of the best lines! It has been bolted by Oscar Jiménez as one of the first lines in Oliana and many people call it as „the line of the sector“. If you arrive at the parking and you see the outstanding long tufa line, you just want to try it. My good friend Roger Schäli and me had a great time climbing in Oliana the past few weeks together with so many nice people." What is the secret of your continous progress and what is next? I am always motivated to try hard, to enjoy climbing and to have fun with my friends. I have a lot of new projects in my mind ... in the near future I am psyched to take part at the San Vito Climbing Festival in Sicily in May together with my best friend Daila Ojeda.

Very few female 8A's in Font

We have seen a great female bouldering the last years and the number of 8A's done around the world are increasing fast. A rough estimate suggest that beside a couple of 8B's, a dozen have done 8A+ and maybe 50 have done 8A. However, in the mecca of bouldering, Fontainebleau, 8A's are still very rare. Why is it like this? Font is said to favor the technical skilled and this is how we normally describe female? A better explanation might be that, relatively, female are best in steep terrain with crimpers and not on slightly overhanging dynamic boulders with slopers and mantel cruxes. What do you think, is it a myth that Font is technically challenging besides the reach dependent vertical and slabby stuff? Katharina Saurwein, fighting a sloper problem in Fontainebleau. "I think it is no secret that most females are a way stronger in crimping than on slopers... maybe because of their smaller hands?"

Derek Powell who started climbing in 1995 has made a great personal best, being 44 years old, by doing Death Sentence 8c in Jailhouse. He did his first 8a in 1998 and his first 8b+ in 2007. "Thanks to Vian for the countdown(s) and the coin(card) toss. Thanks to Ginny and Noah for the support. Greg, I'll call your 17 kneebars and raise you 13. I'll call your volleyball and raise you a weather balloon."

9a again in Santa Linya by Mateusz Haladaj

Mateusz Haladaj has done his ninth 9a, out of which five in Santa Linya, Analogica Natural. "The left extension. Think it changes the original grade, took 5 falls from the last move. One of the best and logical lines in the cave. I think harder and better than Fuck the system!

Zunami 8C by Florian Schmalzl

Florian Schmalzl who has had some great progress the last years has done his first 8C, Zunami in Saalachtal which was set up by B Schwaiger in 2003. Florian (22) started to climb when he was 15 and bouldering when he was 18 years old and it took him ten days over three years to do it.

FA bonus increased to 30 and 20 points for routes & boulders

In order to give more credit to FA's we have doubled up the bonus points to 30 for routes and 20 to boulders. The onsight bonus for routes is 145 points and the flash bonus for boulders are 53 points. A second go ascents gives 2 points extra. The annual score is based on the Top-10 ascents. Have fun :)

Amazing support for GB WC bouldering team

Mina Leslie-Wujastyk started a crowd funding page two days ago for the GB WC bouldering team as a sponsor had to withdraw. Their target was 8 000 pound and now already 230 backers have raised 9 000 pound. Six backers have paid a total of 1 900 pound for a one hour coaching with either Mina or Shauna Coxsey. As there are many federation and competitors struggling with World Cup finance, this might be the way to go. Last year, Shauna was #4 and Mina #9 in the Bouldering World Cup which starts in less than four weeks in China.