NEWS

12 October 2015

9a by Stefano Ghisolfi

Stefano Ghisolfi has done L'attimo 9a in Covolo, which was his seventh 9a or harder last year and he is #3 in the 8a ranking game. In the Lead World Cup, he is #7 and next weekend he's going to compete in China. "Almost in a day! 4 tries in 2 day, fell because of a wet hold!"

8B+ by Ashima Shiraishi (14) again
Ashima Shiraishi reports on Facebook that she has done 8A, 8A+ and 8B+ all in one day. This confirms that she is the best female climber out there, although being just 14 years old. Photo: @leibav - V11, V12 and V14 in a DAY! Holy CRAP!!!!!! I had the best day climbing today!!!! It's been a while since I climbed on some REAL ROCK!!!! Started off the day by sending Worthless V11 then Wetness the Fatness V12 pretty quickly! Later on, I decided to give Nuclear War V14 a try and managed to send it!!!! Nuclear War hasn't seen a 2nd ascent in 9 years (when Matt Bosley did it). Psyched to have gotten the 2nd and 1st Female Ascent! Stay tuned for some video

Jernej Kruder climbs classics: the Never Ending Story 8B+ and Riverbed 8B in climbing paradise Magic Wood, Switzerland. He did those things on the same trip when he sent an multipich 8b+ Hatori Hanzo, sport route Shaolin 8b+ and was #3 in prestigious competition Adidas Rockstars.

9a FA by Alex Megos in USA
Alex Megos reports on Facebook, Bร„ร„ร„M! First 5.14d (9a) in the New River Gorge. Managed to climb the extension of "Pod" 5.13b (8a) adding a V12 boulder problem after the anchors making it "Superpod" 5.14d (9a)!!! (c) Mike Williams DPM who has the full report with great pictures of Alex on 8c flash.

8A+ FA by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Butterfly 8A+ which makes her the new female leader of the ranking game. "Really psyched, this one is amazing, on the newer boulder we've been going to up above Survival of the fittest... Do any other girls put boulders up?" Alex Puccio had been the 8a ranking game leader for more than five years but was out of game this summer due to a knee surgery. Alex is the first female who did an 8A+ FA and Isabelle is probably the second in the world.

8A+ by Alex Puccio
10 October 2015

8A+ by Alex Puccio

Alex Puccio has done The Power of Ten in RMNP which means she has done 43 boulders 8A+ and harder. (c) Chris Motta "So I thought this boulder was REALLY hard!!! For sure one of the harder 8A+'s for me that I have done. The first 3 moves were ridiculous, maybe there is some secret crazy beta I missed..... Who knows. Powered through and almost greased off the top, but managed to get through it! ๐Ÿ˜„ This was my second day in it.

TNF team explores a new big wall in Siberia
The North Face climbing team, to which belong among others: Jacopo Larcher, Hans jorg Auer and the Pou brothers, traveled this summer to the remote Chukotka region in Siberia to explore big wall potential there and open new routes. The team opened up eight new routes on the perfect granite walls named ย“The Generalย”, ย“The Commanderย”, and ย“The Monkย”, and also made the first ascent of the mountain. The short film of their adventure in Siberia will be released in April 2016 on thenorthfacejournal.com. (c) Elias Holzknecht

Janja Garnbret has won every youth comp she has entered and in the two World Cups she tried, she was both times #2. Slovenian coaches have deliberately held her back in order to try not to put any pressure on her. "It is all about having fun!"

9a FA by David Lama in Lebanon
Lebanon has always been a blank area on the map of sport climbing. But with the help of local climber Jad Khoury, Austrian superstar David Lama has recently changed this and did the first ascent of Baatara Gorge Sinkhole near Tannourine, 75 kilometers north of Beirut. Due to its surreal landscape with waterfalls, natural arches and a combination of blue and orange rock mixed with green plants, which reminds of the movie ย‘Avatarย’, David Lama and his supporter, Jad Khoury, agreed on the name Avaataraย’ (9a) for the cascade route descending into Mount Lebanon. ยฉ Red Bull Media House David did his first 8a when he was 10 years old and being 16 he won the European Lead Championship and the year later the European Boulder Championship. He is also famous for the FA of the Compressor route on Cerro Torre.

Also The North Face to low prices at EPICTV SHOP
EPICTV SHOP continues to develop their webshop and this Verto Micro Vest goes at Euro 126 including free delivery and then you also get some Euro 6 credit for your next buy. If you become an EPICTV member, the prices drop even more. In general, you can buy outdoor products with at least 15 % discount compared to any other shop. Link to climbing gear at sale