NEWS

8A+ FA by Isabelle Faus
Isabelle Faus has done the FA of Butterfly 8A+ which makes her the new female leader of the ranking game. "Really psyched, this one is amazing, on the newer boulder we've been going to up above Survival of the fittest... Do any other girls put boulders up?" Alex Puccio had been the 8a ranking game leader for more than five years but was out of game this summer due to a knee surgery. Alex is the first female who did an 8A+ FA and Isabelle is probably the second in the world.

8A+ by Alex Puccio
10 October 2015

8A+ by Alex Puccio

Alex Puccio has done The Power of Ten in RMNP which means she has done 43 boulders 8A+ and harder. (c) Chris Motta "So I thought this boulder was REALLY hard!!! For sure one of the harder 8A+'s for me that I have done. The first 3 moves were ridiculous, maybe there is some secret crazy beta I missed..... Who knows. Powered through and almost greased off the top, but managed to get through it! ๐Ÿ˜„ This was my second day in it.

TNF team explores a new big wall in Siberia
The North Face climbing team, to which belong among others: Jacopo Larcher, Hans jorg Auer and the Pou brothers, traveled this summer to the remote Chukotka region in Siberia to explore big wall potential there and open new routes. The team opened up eight new routes on the perfect granite walls named ย“The Generalย”, ย“The Commanderย”, and ย“The Monkย”, and also made the first ascent of the mountain. The short film of their adventure in Siberia will be released in April 2016 on thenorthfacejournal.com. (c) Elias Holzknecht

Janja Garnbret has won every youth comp she has entered and in the two World Cups she tried, she was both times #2. Slovenian coaches have deliberately held her back in order to try not to put any pressure on her. "It is all about having fun!"

9a FA by David Lama in Lebanon
Lebanon has always been a blank area on the map of sport climbing. But with the help of local climber Jad Khoury, Austrian superstar David Lama has recently changed this and did the first ascent of Baatara Gorge Sinkhole near Tannourine, 75 kilometers north of Beirut. Due to its surreal landscape with waterfalls, natural arches and a combination of blue and orange rock mixed with green plants, which reminds of the movie ย‘Avatarย’, David Lama and his supporter, Jad Khoury, agreed on the name Avaataraย’ (9a) for the cascade route descending into Mount Lebanon. ยฉ Red Bull Media House David did his first 8a when he was 10 years old and being 16 he won the European Lead Championship and the year later the European Boulder Championship. He is also famous for the FA of the Compressor route on Cerro Torre.

Also The North Face to low prices at EPICTV SHOP
EPICTV SHOP continues to develop their webshop and this Verto Micro Vest goes at Euro 126 including free delivery and then you also get some Euro 6 credit for your next buy. If you become an EPICTV member, the prices drop even more. In general, you can buy outdoor products with at least 15 % discount compared to any other shop. Link to climbing gear at sale

Ichimiya Daisuke - unknown world class boulderer
Ichimiya Daisuke is a new 8a member who has added to his scorecard one 8B+ and Dai Koyamada's Shambala 8C, which took him just four days to do. Ichimiya has only been climbing for six years and only the last three years outside, and he has no trainer. Three weeks ago, he became a father of Kazuha. The Japanese trains 4-5 times a week and sometimes with a bag as heavy as himself, doing pull ups etc. Now he is projecting some further 8B+ and 8C. Video of his hardest boulders.

8B+ by Alex Khazanov
7 October 2015

8B+ by Alex Khazanov

Alex Khazanov has done Ill thrill 8B+ (C) in Magic Wood. (c) Eddie Fowke "Ohhhh yess!!! Moments like this are a big part of the reason why I climb. I tried it for a few days back in the summer and came back today praying for it to be dry and it was! I set down to try it and boom! Couldn't do almost any move, after a some more tries, just before i was ready to give up, it happened. After a biggg fight and almost falling on every move I found my self on the top. This problem is my hardest to date for sure and I am totally not sure about the grade of this one but this not why we climb. We climb for those special moments. So so happy right now!

ย€4500 for rebolting on Kalymnos thank to the Send App
The Send Climbing Topos, which has developed the Left-Right Topos for 8a, has donated ย€4500 to rebolting since they introduced the Kalymnos App. "Today is a very special day- the first anniversary of the Kalymmos topo app! To mark this occasion we provide a report on how things have gone over the last year. Funds raised and spent: The Kalymnos Topo app exists to raise money for the Glaros Bolt fund, the only bolt fund we know that gives every penny/cent it gets towards rebolting on Kalymnos. Since the app was launched last October, we are very proud to announce that the Kalymnos Topo app, together with generous donations for the new routes paper updates from the Glaros Bar have generated a total of ย€6500. Of this, ย€4500 was raised by sales of the app which continues to retail at ย€5.49. Of this amount, ย€1000 was donated to the Kalymnos Rescue Service, which went towards team training in climbing and rescue skills to help not just with rescue efforts but also to help with future rebolting and route condition reporting. As a municipality/EU funded contract for rebolting is due to start soon, we have decided to wait until this work was finished before funding any substantial rebolting effort to as to avoid duplication. For this reason we have only been supplying equipment for emergency repair work.

Rodellar Cleanup day
6 October 2015

Rodellar Cleanup day

Sierra de Guara and the Canyon of Mascรบn River are visited by all kinds of groups every year. Hikers, canyoneers, trail runners and of course climbers enjoy their attractive locations often not taking enough responsibility for what they leave behind. The Climbers Association of Rodellar, in collaboration with other institutions and businesses in the area, has decided to organize a cleanup day of the Mascรบn Canyon, in order to minimize the impact that our activity, as well as other groupsย’, generate each year, and also to create awareness of the importance of the small gestures that everyone can make to keep this place in the best possible condition. Therefore we call all climbers, as well as anyone else who feels a special affection for Rodellar and its surroundings, to participate voluntarily on October 11th in this day of maintenance, cleaning and fraternization, and we thank all associates for their support in organizing this event which we hope will continue in the years to come.