NEWS

Sterling 9.2 Aero - Possibly the best (thin) rope on the market
Sterling has for a long time been one of the market leaders in the manufacturing of high quality, durable climbing ropes. We tested the new Evolution Aero 9.2 recently. This new rope is an evolution of the Fusion Nano 9.2 where they have changed the core designs and developed the sheath to provide better falls and increased durability. Editor note ย– the New Nano IX is offered at 9.0 mm. 9.2 mm ropes are normally recommended only to the top climbers who value weight and reduced rope drag over durability. Having used the rope for three months, I must say that this is the most durable thin rope we have ever tested. At the same time it is very soft when it comes to the dynamic elongation. We have also tested their 9.8 mm biggest seller, the Evolution Velocity, which has proven to be an extremely durable and high quality rope. The Velocity is used by Chris Sharma when he projects and it stands up to all his long falls. For todayย’s wide range of sport climbers, these two ropes offer two excellent choices in weight, handling and performance. Interesting is also that Sterling has started to ship ropes with middle marks. Specs for the 9.2 Aero and 9.8 Velocity UIAA Falls: 7 & 6 Weight: 56 & 62 g/M Dynamic Elongation: 33 & 26% Static Elongation: 7.7 & 8.6 % Impact Force: 8.5 & 8.8 kN

Alex Puccio is about to take female bouldering to the next level
Alex Puccio has done Free Range (aka Cage Free Assis) 8B in Boulder Canyon meaning she has done four 8B's and flashed one 8A during the last four weeks. "Didn't think that was going to happen so quick. Tried it a couple tries when I sent the stand a while back. Then went back today and after figuring out all the moves with Isabelle (Faus) it took a few tries from the beginning. Psyched to tick this one off the list. Isabelle will take it down soon!" Last year, Alex was #2 in the Boulder World Championships. Only four months ago she needed a knee surgery for a torn ACL and now it seems she is taking female bouldering to the next level making 8a news with pictures from Chris Motta every other day.

Alex Megos reports on Facebook, "First day back in the โ€ช#โ€Žredrivergorgeโ€ฌ after 3 years! FINALLY did "Southern Smoke Direct" 5.14d (9a) today after failing on it 3 years ago. As well did a project(?!) to the left of "50 Words for Pump" which I would say is as well around 5.14d (9a).

The best climbing destination had its best climbing year ever
For many years Kalymnos has been the most popular climbing destination in the world especially known for high quality routes, low prices, friendly locals but infamous for queues at the popular sectors. During 2015, the queues have disappeared due to all the new sectors (2 700 routes in the new topo compared to 1 700 before) in combination with less climbers. The fact that Ryan Air has reduced the number of flights and general uncertainties because of the Greek crisis and refugees passing from Turkey are believed to be the reasons for lower number of climbers. Few times, the climbing rescue team (no severe climbing accidents this year) has assisted stranded refugees that had been just dropped on the cliffs. When it comes to the business, the locals have had to deal with some money restrictions but in general, there is more of everything for even lower prices. This means more and often cheaper; supermarkets, studios, restaurants, yoga, training courses, taxi, buses and climbing shops. One guy has also started a resoling service, which also buys and sells used gear. The only drawback is that the scooter rentals are only allowed to those having driving licenses with AM. The best 2016 news is that Ryan Air and more airlines said they would increase the number of flights to Kos and Aegean and might increase their direct 80-seat to Kalymnos to four afternoons every week.

The Young Savages by Claudia Ziegler
I want more of The Young Savages by Claudia Ziegler. She has traveled around the world and spent some time with some of the most famous young climbers getting pictures, also in their day-to-day life. It is very nice to get under skin of the athletes but somehow I think she did scratch just to gentle. Maybe it is because I have met many of them and already know some of the stories; Ernst, Ondra, Sรถderlund, Raboutou, Nonaka, Megos, Shiraishi, Coxsey, Hรถrst, Le Neve and Skofic. The coffee table book is very good and I do recommend it but I want more. The youngsters all represent good climbing personalities but what is the back side of being a professional athlete is the somewhat not mentioned thing beside some strict routines by Adam Ondra and Ashima Shiraishi. Picture says more than words but even so, we do not get much info about their daily life and interest beside climbing and sometimes school. But for a coffee table book, you cannot say you want more.

Adam Ondra and Jain Kim win in China
1. Adam Ondra - Jain Kim 2. Domen Skofic - Anak Verhoeven 3. Sean McColl - Jessica Pilz Complete results

8C by Toshi Takeuchi
18 October 2015

8C by Toshi Takeuchi

Toshi Takeuchi has done his third 8C in 2015, Asagimadara in Mizugaki and he goes to #5 in the ranking game. (c) Hiroshi Asada "Finally. 3rd ascent. I first touched this mega ball 6 years ago and it felt impossible both physically and mentally. Now I felt a really big evolve for myself. Huge respect for Tokio Muroi who put up this one, one of the best bouldering problem on earth. Now I am already psyched for several project that nobody done yet:) Japan has lots of potential.

18 October 2015

Overall before Kranj

Here is the score counting after five out of six events. In theory, five male and two female can win overall. The scoring in the IFSC ranking differs as they have based their result on all six events. 1. Adam Ondra 358 - Mina Markovic 427 2. Gauthier Supper 357 - Jain Kim 406 3. Jakob Schubert 331 - Jessica Pilz 355 4. Domen Skofic 325 - Anak Verhoeven 330 5. Romain Desgranges 307 - Helene Janicot 251

Third 8c in Frankenjura by Lena Herrmann
Lena Herrmann has done Odd Fellows 8c in Frankenjura. "Finally! I spent great days with my friends here. Somehow a mean route." Full story and great pictures on her nice blogspot. Previously in 2015, the 21-year-old has done two FFAs in Frankenjura; Father and Som and Klondike cat. Maybe it is time to start checking the popular 8c+'s around Lleida.

The sixth out of seven Lead World Cups takes place this weekend in Wujiang, China. Only some 25 competitors outside Asia but all the top ranked are going to participate. Unfortunately there will be no live streaming. 1. Gauthier Supper 357 - Mina Markovic 420 2. Jakob Schubert 327 - Jessica Pilz 345 3. Romain Desgranges 307 - Jain Kim 334 4. Adam Ondra 290 - Anak Verhoeven 290 5. Domen Skofic 282 - Helene Janicot 227