NEWS

8A's and 8A+'s in Grampians by Katharina Saurwein
Katharina Saurwein has done two 8A+'s in Grampians; Sleepy Hollow and Cave Bitch. On the great picture by Jon Glassberg she is doing The Outsiders 8A. From Facebook; "I've tried some amazing problems in the last few days, such as 'Sleepy Hollow', 'Nevin Rules' and 'Ammagamma', but I must say the majority of the problems is not as good as I thought. A lot of them don't top out or climb not so good rock. The Grampians are an amazing place though, and the wildlife, crazy sunsets and the views from Mt Stapylton make up for it though!

Jan Vopat has onsighted two 8a's and his first 8a+ in Geyik bayiri, Turkish Airways. By checking his impressive scorecard with 756 ascents, we can see that his focus has moved from toprope, from the age of five, to flash and now onsight. 8a believes that this is the way for kids and that they should be kept away from redpoint as long as possible.

Kyparissi - as good as Cรฉรผse?
Angy Eiter introduces to us the gorgeous seaside village of Kyparissi, a new world class sport climbing destination. Kyparissi is a small village in one of the last remaining untouched niches of Greece. Surrounded by pristine limestone cliffs, it has waited for a long time before the bolting project was able to be implemented under the supervision of Aris Theodoropoulos. Approximately 130 sport routes of all levels have been equipped in Kyparissi to date. They are distributed across six beautiful crags, with shade both in the morning and in the afternoon. One of these crags, ย‘Babalaย’ (only 30 routes so far), is described by climbers who have tried it as ย“the best hard sport crag in Greece; something like a Cรฉรผse full of steep and futuristic tufa lines on bulletproof orange and blue limestone, with unlimited potential for more hard routes!ย” More info at Climb Greece (c) Chris Boukoros

Time.com has published a list of the 30 most influential teens in the world, including Ashima Shiraishi. When it comes to athlete performances, Ashima could be said to be the most successful 14-year-old in the world, taking all sports in consideration. Ashima has had the most impressive combined climbing and bouldering ticklist in the world since when she was 12 years old. Last week, she won and did all the boulders at a Brooklyn Boulders event beating all the guys.

1-2-3 ABC 2a on Kalymnos - Easiest route in the world?
What is the easiest bolted route in the world? The 8 meters long 1-2-3 ABC in Symplegades sector on Kalymnos should be a contender for this title. You can also do the top rope variation 4-5-6 DEF 2c to the right. In fact, it is also possible to do a variation to the left which makes it 1b+ :) In the new topo, Symplegades has already been said to be the best family crag on Kalymnos and, including also the new 5b, The double twins, just confirms it. The trend for parents to bring their small kids to the crag is just growing stronger but the ground under the routes is often not so nice for running around and playing hide and seek on Kalymnos. Symplegades, however, does the trick.

The 8a ticklists are based on 3.6 million ascents that will assist you in finding and climbing the best routes in the world. You can also check which routes have the highest onsight statistics or which routes have been done by kids, or have them sorted by grades etc. Have fun at the crag!

8B+ in Font by Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen
Michiel Nieuwenhuijsen has done The Island 8B+ in Fontainebleau. (c) Thomas Caleyron "One and a half year ago I tried the Island for the first time. Such an intense problem and maybe the best compression boulder in the world. Even I only have been there for 6 or 7 days, it has been on my mind since. Yesterday it went down, but this isnยดt the end. The big Island always has been the main goal. It is time to go BIG! The 8C starts two moves lower Bad conditions kept me from going back to the Big Island this trip. But will be back in December for two weeks. โ€ฌ

Five 8c+'s by Joe Kinder in Villanueva del Rosario
Joe Kinder has had three amazing weeks in Villanueva del Rosario, famous for the 9b Chilam Balam, where he has done five 8c+'s: La Rubia, El Bushido de Shiva, La Chispa, Matar a Platรณn (ยฉJavi Pec) and Chilam Balam R1. "Part one of the full rig. DAMN that was sweet... banged out the first gnar crux and made it happen. Barely. The try before I fell on the foot cut move. SO STOKED!!! One of my dream routes and I am on my way. Two more days to learn for my return."