NEWS

9b again by Jakob Schubert
Jakob Schubert reports on Facebook with a great picture by ยฉ Elias Holzknecht/ WOODSLAVE productions, "LA PLANTA DE SHIVA! After the biggest fight of my life I managed to clip the anchor of this amazing 9b in Villanueva del Rosario. 2nd Ascent after Adam Ondra. Super happy and proud to have send this one, my hardest route so far. Time for fiesta!" Jakob has been the best male lead competition climber in the world since 2010 and in 2011 he won seven events straight. He also won overall in 2014 and last year he was #3. The Austrian is the fourth climber after Ondra, Sharma and Andrada to have done two 9b's. Here is a new Podcast. "The process was actually rather special and I learned a lot about trying something that hard. The first few days on the route were pretty frustrating and I felt like I'm not strong enough for this route. I think it's the hardest route I have ever tried and because the rock is so special on the 9b part it's very difficult to find the right beta and can take a lot of time. I kind of gave up on the route and climbed some easier ones for some days, but since it didn't get out of my head, I returned with more motivation and a better mindset and suddenly made a lot of progress. The send was epic, I almost fell at the second to last move and fought super hard to reach the last hold. Really happy and proud of this one. 2016 I will only do the Lead season (+BWC in Innsbruck) mostly because I want to have more time to climb outside until spring. I will fly to Hueco for 3 weeks beginning of February and after we have a 10 day training camp with the national team in Fontainebleau and in Andalusia. After that I'm not sure about my plans yet, but I really want to go back to Flatanger since it's such an amazing place and I would really love to try 'Move'.

8b+ (c) by Hannah Schubert (18)
Hannah Schubert, double youth world champion, has done El gran blau 8b+ (c) in Oliana. The 18-year-old is Jakob Schubert's younger sister. In 2015, she participated in the Lead WC three times and her worst result was #19.

8b+ onsight by Hugo Parmentier (17)
hugo parmentier has been on a trip to Siurana, where he managed to onsight Kale borroka 8b+. His previous best onsight was an 8a! In the Youth World Championship in Arco, Hugo got the bronze in both Lead and Boulder.

Dalmatia a new potential Mecca
Jernej Kruder, runner up in the Boulder World Championship 2014, has made a report with many great pictures from his bolting expedition to Dalmatia in Croatia. - Dalmatia is a bit different from Spain or Misja pec. There are not so many big sectors but if you drive along the coast, you have walls on every kilometer.Pretty much all of them you can see from the road. Now the main thing was Vrulja which you see in the pictures and where there are many caves. Now there are three projects and there is place for some harder things as well.

Timy Fairfield was one of the best climbers during the 90s. Now he is back being 45 with a 8C FA. "This brilliant test-piece is steep, elegantly choreographed, gymnastically specific, savagely powerful, explosive, absolutely hard and 100% natural - the way I like it! This is one of the best lines that I have ever authored."

"THROWBACK" from Timy Fairfield on Vimeo.

8c+ by ร€lex Hernรกndez (17)
Alex Hernandez has done his second 8c+, Sensepell in Catalunia, which Ramon Julian Puigblanque just made the FA of. ร€lex did his first 8c+ two years ago. (c) Ktx Lluciร  Hernandez Nuรฑez

Jessy Pilz: another big breakthrough of 2015
Jessica Pilz started competing in 2010 and has made the podium in the Euro Youth Cup twice. Since 2012, when she begun training with a plan, she has been the best in her age category. Her trainer is Ingo Filzwieser, the Austrian national youth coach, and normally she trains for 4 to 5 times a week for 3.5 hours. Jessy started up in 2015 with being #5 in the Euro Bouldering Championship and finished by being #3 in the Lead WC. Her worst result out in seven WCs was once being #4. In between, she was #3 in the European Championship. Add to that two 8c+'s and more and it is quite obvious that the 19-year-old is in the Top-20 on the 8a Climber of the year list. (c) Ansichtssache / Andi Aufschnaiter - In 2015 at the beginning of the season I had no pressure and no high expectations in the World Cup, because I was still climbing in youth comps and I first thought my highlight will be the World Youth Championship in Arco. But later it turned out that I also could climb onto the podium in adults comps. The explanation is easy: I trained hard for this season and had great support from the Austrian team, sponsors, trainer, friends and parents!! I think talent and luck is also important sometimes and this was might also be part of this season ;) Oh I forgot my goals on rock: haha that's easy I do't have one ! The rock trip to Oliana the last week was a great addition and reward for me. I never expected that I could climb those hard routes, because I am almost never on rock and I have little experience. But I absolutely enjoyed it with a great crew and got used to it ;) After school I want to do more rock climbing (also in Austria), because up to now I had not enough time..