R & I has published Belay Screw-ups and What To Do About Them. The big dilemma is that, like on the picture by Klaus Fengler, belayers tend to use a GriGri technique which is not authorized by Petzl. Ten years ago 8a suggested a GriGri technique which actually made Petzl change their manuals. At that time, most of climbers, including several of the most famous athletes, used a deadly dangerous technique. I personally made several celebrities change their GriGri handling. Later, Petzl introduced another belay technique which almost is not used. Now, most use something similar to what 8a suggested and what is shown in the picture. Safety is the most important issue in climbing and this article pinpoint the Petzl GriGri safety dilemma. Some three years ago, Petzl did withdraw a GriGri safety video that had been shown 0.5 million times as 8a had told Petzl that one of their famous athlete was using another deadly dangerous GriGri technique.

Blocmasters international will take place in Studio Bloc in Pfungstadt (Hessen, Germany) on 19-20 March. The competition is open for amateurs and professional boulderers. Names like Alexei Ruptsov and Jan Hojer are already on the list and the prize money is Euro 10 000. All profit will be donated to "Climbers Against Cancer" (CAC). More info and their the Facebook page.

James Webb continues his rampage in Fontainebleau and today he did Hipp Hop assis 8B and L'arete de boissy assis 8B+ as well as his second session on The Big Island assis, which is a ten move long 8B+ into the 8C without any rest. (c) David Mason - Yea I'm a bit blown away by it at the moment.. We'll see how it goes. Going to have to train hard for this one! - Fell on the move pictured here once today and though there's only 5 more moves to the lip I feel so many sessions away from the full link.

Loic Zehani has flashed La fracture sociale 8b+ near Seynes in Spot secret. Last year, Loic did his first 9a, being 13 years old. "This is a 20 meters route bolted by Jean Marc Oberli. The first part is about 15 mouves (8b) with stranges and dynamics moves after that you have an stamina part (more or less 7c+). There is no rest between the two part. It's my dad (He was redpointed the route two weeks ago) who flashed me perfectly the route (hands and feet methods!)

The Big Island is the famous 8C in Fontainebleau and the sit version is supposed to be a ten moves long 8B+, which has been done. So 8B+ with no rest going into an 8C. The next level :) Picture by Clement Perotti

Stephane Hanssens, a well known expedition climber and who was #9 in the Imst Lead WC last year, has done his first 9a, Estato Critico in Siurana. Check his full report with pictures by Christophe Henry, where, among other things, he says, "Since a year or two, I only do sports climbing and competition and no more expeditions World Wide, I knew I was able to do a 9. But mentally some work was still to be done. I had to admit the fact that I was capable to send a 9a, that I have the right to do so. I know it’s kind of strange to say something like that but for me, it’s the truth."

James Webb has flashed Ouroboros in Fontainebleau giving it a personal 8A+ grade. This was his third 8A+ flash during the last ten days in Font. The picture by Eddie Fowke was made two weeks ago when James was #2 in the US Nationals. Congrats! How much beta did you get? Just saw one video yesterday actually of Charles doing it. Did not anybody coach you during the flash in regard to hand and feet placement? Just went climbing and everything luckily stuck perfectly. I mean, I show up with an idea of how its done, then just check the holds and feet and sometimes make minor adjustments to the beta so it suits me. Amazing! Did you do any mental preparation before? No real preparation this time. Was actually feeling quite tired from the morning session so. No expectations really. In general what do you think is the secret of flashing hard? I don't know actually. But if I had to say... it would be confidence.

Influenced by the direct version of Le pied à coulisse 8C+ made by Charles "Mowgli" Albert which is thought not to be possible with normal climbing shoes, this article has been moved to the top again. Inspired by amazing Charles Albert, who does 8B+'s barefoot in Font, Jens Larssen wrote the article Sticking rubber toe plasters or separate big toes on shoes? Already 25 years ago, Marius Morstad, Special Adviser at the University of Sports in Oslo, who has been helping La Sportiva, Scarpa and 5.10 with shoe innovations, came up and presented the idea of a separate big toe compartment - The Claws. The shoe industry was not much interested but Marius says that it at least had some impact of the Mantra and the no edge concept from La Sportiva. - So to answer you question, that I have been able to inspire others so my visions could be materialized most be my biggest contribution. The vision is not truely materialized in a comercial product yet, maybe I should start my own company heehehe

Women's Open 1) Alex Puccio - 6510 pts. 2) Jule Wurm - 5005 pts. 3) Akiyo Noguchi - 3160 pts. Men's Open 1) Jakob Schubert - 7710 pts. 2) Jan Hojer - 7290 pts 3) Sam Davis - 6960 pts. More info and pictures

Neil Hart comes with most extraordinary Boulder news: both James Webb and Charles "Mowgli" Albert have repeated Guillaume Glairon-Mondet's Le pied à coulisse 8C+ in Fontainebleau. Mowgli did it barefoot saying he did a direct version, "It's easier than the original method, but maybe only possible without climbing shoes". You have to wrap your toe around a small spike in a pocket which is not possible with shoes and thus eliminate six moves! Both guys credit Gui-Gui's vision. James think it is more 8C and Charles says his version is 8B+. (c) Clement Perotti/Sandstone media Scorecard comment from James, "First of all major props to Gui Gui for having the vision to create this line! Its a very nice problem hosting both technical and powerful movement. Regarding the grade I personally feel 8C is more appropriate though it is definitely one of the hardest in the forest. Today Charles and I climbed it using VERY different methods. Charles created a direct sequence that eliminates around 6 moves off Gui's line and honestly might only be doable if you're barefoot. For me I decided to repeat Gui's line because I wanted to climb what he thought could be that next level. Nonetheless I'm keen to have it done and really psyched to move forward on other projects! 2nd ascent. 3 days"