Fanny Gibert did four boulders in five and Alexey Rubtsov did three tops in 17 attempts, which was two tops more than the runner-up. Interestingly, Rubtsov was #6 in the semifinal just ahead of Jan Hojer, meanwhile Gibert won all three rounds. The Russian, who won the Boulder World Championship 2009 and the only WC he did in 2015, says winning in Warsaw in January and Bloc Master will make it possible to finance the World Cups in 2016. Any special training system this year? Yes, my new secret training system :) I go to a plane to Moscow now! Bye!

Ashima Shiraishi's ticklist from last year put her among the Top-20 climbers in the world. Not bad for a 14-year-old who lives and goes to school in New York, which limits her days out on the crags. If we were to measure who has the best tick list based on the days spent on the rock, Ashima is probably among the Top-10 in the world. Just imagine how many 8C's and 9a+'s she could do if she was a professional climber living in Barcelona and travelling around Europe. Clearly, no other 14-year-old girl competes as equal to the male in other sports. She is already quite famous also outside the climbing world and surely, she will set more new standards and help climbing be considered as a real sport that should be a part in the Olympics. (c) Big Up Productions

Reel Rock Film Tour comes with the amazing news that Ashima Shiraishi has made the first repeat of Dai Koyamada's spectacular Horizon 8C, in Hiei, Japan. The 14-year-old worked on the 30 move long roof problem in December and now she has done it on her third day, which means she is the first female and the youngest climber ever to have reached 8C. Here you can find Dai's comment on his FA including a picture where you see that it is almost a horizontal roof. - "No doubt the Super Project was the hardest problem I’'ve ever done and that probably means it’s a V16 (8C+). However, I’'m not quite sure because I don’t have enough references to compare with. I would be able to fully understand what V15 (8C) is like exactly if I did more than fifty or so of them, but my accomplishments don’t even come close to that." Based on Ashima's Route and Boulder ticklist, she has been the world's best female rock climber since she was 12 years old. Among the male, she is currently in the Top-20 including also having done two 9a's last autumn. How many 14-year-old girls are able to compete with the best male in any sport? (c) Brett Lowell

Heiko Wilhelm reports on Instagram that Jakob Schubert has flashed 3 Satellites 8c+ in Andalusia. He got the beta from Mario Lechner. Together with Adam Ondra Jakob has been the best overall climber in the world the last five years, including Bouldering and competitions.

Stefano Carnati, who previously has done one 9a, has sent Goldrake in Cornalba which Adam Ondra put up 2010 as an 9a+. The 17 year old, who was #2 in the Youth World Championship last year, did only project the 9a+ route for five days. - "I started to work on this route in late January. It took me five days for a total of 13 tries. Since the first attempts I was able to do all the sequences quite well. The send was very unexpected! I felt four times at a point before the real crux. Yesterday I was able to do that part and I went through the hard section. I did everything perfectly, climbed the last slab calmly and I found myself at the chain of this route!" Gabri Moroni, who did the first repeat, gives credit on FB; - What the New Generation can do... What it took 3 years of my life, becoming a real life experience and a good way to understand my personal limits it is a normal thing for them... A random day at the crag and eventually they found them self clipping the chain of 9a's... Very inspiring! Good job Stefano Carnati!!!

Why is it that many of the very best climbers like Ondra, Webb, Graham and Ceria, either are the ones who use personal grades most frequently, have a very broad grade pyramid, or, like Sharma and Mego, simply do not seem care about grades? Could it be that the ones who are driven by the grades instead of focusing more on the pure climbing challenges, have hard time to pass the 9a and 8B+ barrier? Maybe this relates to the fact that grade thoughts create anxiety, which makes it harder to send. If you climb because you enjoy the challenge and get pleased even if you fail or do easier climbs you might have more positive energy instead of being pushed by your grand focus on the grade.

Safety: On belay smaller and lighter climbers may create softer falls that increase the risk of having the falling climber either collide with the belayer or hit the wall if there is a large difference in weight between climbing partners. Conversely, a petite climber may often experience a more static fall with the risk of smashing into the wall themselves. In other words, if a female climber finds herself in a situation where there is a great weight difference between her and her climbing partner, then there are safety concerns that ought to be taken into consideration. Training: In general, there is no difference between female and male climbers in terms of finger strength. However, and with notable and increasing exceptions, the biggest strength differences are arguably found in bicep, tricep and shoulder strength. This means that female climbers may benefit from training that focuses on the muscles in their arms. Technique: In general female climbers are shorter than their male counterparts, which, combined with the differences in relative areas of strength, may result in issues when there is dynamic movement concerned. This technique, however, is of high priority for climbers with a slightly shorter reach as sometimes a dyno is the only solution. Coaching: Many of the best female use coaches at the same time as most of the best male have trained themselves. Grades: As a great majority of all FAs are put up by male climbers it is possible that female climbers with different strengths and abilities (such as superior flexibility, greater relative finger strength, different finger size, and different strength-and-power/weight ratios) may find that the suggested grades do not correspond to their experience of the climb. Shoes: Climbing shoes made for female climbers already exist. In general it could be said that even with outside female specific models smaller and lighter climbers may find benefits in opting for softer shoes.

Many of the best climbers in the world did have their breakthrough when they were young teenagers or even kids. Here is a list of some of the late bloomers giving hope for everyone out there who is going for the peak getting closer or beyond 30 years old. First how old they were when they started to climb and some stats for their relatively late progress. 16 - James Webb: First 8A at 20, two 8B+ being 23, #1 in the world at 28 7 - Klemen Becan: First 8c+ at 24 and 9a+ at 34, First WC win at 26 12 - Romain Desgranges: Around #20 in WC until -06, now Top-5 at 33

The best 14 year old climber is by far Ashima Shiraishi. Laura Rogara is not far behind the boys as well. If you go further down in ages, it seems girls and boys are at the same standards. Here are some of the girls-wonderkids that might be challenging the best boys also in their teens. Angie Scarth-Johnson, Nika Potapova, Oriane Bertone, Victoria Gezel, Illya Bakhmet-Smolenskyi.