NEWS

Anak Verhoeven, who was #4 in the Lead World Cup last year, has done her second 9a, the FA of Me belle ma muse in Romeyer. Just later, it was repeated by Jean-Elie Crestin-Billet and here is his video. Jean-Elie actually called it an 8c+/9a.

Ryuichi Murai has done his second 8C in the last two weeks, Vanitas in Hourai."I felt this problem was right for myself because I could deal with many of parts with heel hook that I am good at. 6 moves until join the stand version was so difficult. When I got over the fear of mantle, I was so psyched!! Props to Dai did FA in 2014!" Video The 167 cm tall Japanese was #19 in the only Boulder World Cup he has taken part in. "I started climbing at the age of ten. I was mainly focused on competition until enter the university, but later I began to climb the natural rock. Because I still have never been bouldering overseas, I want to try the hard problems there. I climb in the gym three times a week. Basically, I try the problems that is made by gym staff. I don't particularly training, but I do sometimes ''ABC chin-up''. ''ABC chin-up'' is a training that I was taught when I went to the training camp in Austria before." Also Ichimiya Daisuke has done the 8C, which was the second one for the 162-cm-tall.

Mind Control 8c (+) by Monique Forestier (43)
The proud husband Simon Carter comes with great news on Facebook. "I'm happy! She's happy! Everybody's happy! Because Monique Forestier really pulled it out of the bag and did something I wasn't expecting today... She just sent her numero uno project with a really inspired send of Mind Control for her first 8c+, or Australian 34, in primo conditions at Oliana today!"

The downtime on 8a is only related to a hacker attack on our server provider conducted in the same way as the attack the biggest news website in Sweden some weeks ago. As we have reported earlier, the traffic has gone up some 25 % in 2016 and this in combination with the last preparations for the new scorecard pages has made us hit our maximum server capacity. Our server provider has told us that this problem has now been solved. We are sorry for the inconvenience but happy for the increase in traffic and that the new scorecard pages are soon to be released.

Anna Stรถhr is the most successful female competition boulderer. Wrestling with an alligator in Malatal was her fifth 8B after: The Riverbed in Magic wood - 2010, The Vice in Rocklands - 2013, The Power of one in Rocklands - 2013 and Boogalagga in Chironico - 2015.

yihaaaaaa - today i climbed klem loskot's classic 'wrestling with an alligator' 8b in maltatal :)

Posted by Anna Stรถhr on Monday, March 28, 2016

7 million euro worth gym in Bruneck (16 000 inhabitants)
Kletterzentrum Bruneck which opened last year was a 7 million euro investment done by the School Ministry of South Tyrol in Bruneck. As the city has only 16 000 inhabitants it might be the largest investment per capita. Interestingly, the closest city is 30 minutes away, is similar in size, and also has a new climbing gym. In total, there are almost 40 gyms in South Tyrol with just some 500 000 people living there. The size is also impressive for such a small city; Routes indoor ca. 1370 m2 Routes outdoor ca. 450 m2 Boulder ca. 680 m2

Kajsa Rosรฉn (18) - A new star in the making
Kajsa Rosรฉn, who did her first 8c and flashed an 8b+ last week, has done Mind Control 8c (+) and onsighted T-1 Full Equipe in Oliana. There is only a handful of female who have onsighted at this level before. "What to do next? Still suprising myself here in Oliana." Last year, the 18-year-old was #9 and #10 in the last two Lead World Cups she did. loic Timmermans, who is still ahead of Kajsa with one 9a, reachead out to 8a with a nice reflection. "Kasja is crushing all the routes she's trying like nothing. I was even more impressed when she told me she did Mind control without getting pumped. I think she has a good attitude to. Not taking things too seriously, just climbing and see what happens.

Two 8c (+) OS and a 9a+/b by Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra has had a great weekend. First he did the FA of Vicious Circle 9a+/b in Osp/Misja Pec, which he bolted last year. (c) Luka Fonda "Left start into Sanski par. Bouldery and short 8c+ into the most of the Sanski par 9a (without first six moves). I would say two 8c+'s with a bad rest in between. Super powerful and resistant climbing. The next stop was Medveja, a new secret zone in Croatia. It was one of the best days of climbing ever as I onsighted two 8c's ('The Core' is considered 8c+ by those few, who repeated the route) and the first ascent of 'More', 9a. World record maybe? Haha. Most of the routes are slightly overhanging, crimpy on super solid rock with a minimum of Sika and in general fitting my style pretty well. The last day I tried a project in Pandora, a different zone in Istria, which is definitely pretty hard in the region of 9b or more. Something like 20m of bouldering in the roof. Definitely a lot of rock around there worth returning for."

Free topo of Peloponnese from Vertical-Life
"Get your #free #topo with the code: MRBOB and discover #Lagada, hidden high amongst the alpine meadows and pine forests of majestic Mt Taygetus, the highest mountain on the Peloponnese (2407m)." Vertical Life will give out one free Topo App every week.

8c+ by Brooke Raboutou (14)
Brooke Raboutou reports on Facebook that she has done Southern Smoke 8c+ in Red River Gorge. Previously the 14-year-old did several headlines on 8a including one about an 8b+ that she did four years ago. Brooke's parents are Didier, one of the leading climbers both on the rock and the competition scene some 20 years ago, and Robyn Erbesfield - the world's best competition climber between 1989 -1995 and a very successful trainer.