NEWS

The First Ascensionist of a climb suggests a grade which is the first guidance for the community. This means in fact that if the FA believes that he/she finds the line relatively easier/harder for other climbers who have different strength etc, the grade should reflect this. If a super strong boulderer, who has done one short cruxy 8c route before, puts up his first long endurance monster and thinks this is much harder than the short 8c, possibly he should not give it an 8c+ or 9a grade. In the same way, if a 150 cm tall woman puts up a route with a dyno crux, possibly the FA grade should reflect how taller climbers are going to find it.

Euro University Games in Zagreb in July
This year, on the 22nd, 23rd and 24th of July, Zagreb โ€“ Croatia will be the host of the first climbing competition ever for the university games. Last year we had an introduction with the European University competition in Sports climbing only. This year, climbing is introduced in the European University Games, so maybe in 2020 we can expect it in the Olympics as well? The competition will be organized in the Croatian capital city of Zagreb. There will be boulder, lead and speed competitions and the competitors must be students of course and they can register for the competition only through their university. Application form.

8B+ FA by barefoot Charles Albert
Charles Albert, who has been Bouldering barefoot in Fontainebleau for the last four years, has done the FA of The Wagon Wheel in Petit Bois, after five sessions of projecting. Previously, "Mowgli" has done a couple of 8B+'s, including the FA of Le Pied ร  Coulisse - Direct, which actually is not possible with your shoes on. "I really don't know if it's easier with shoes because the main foothold is a non existent sloopy thing so it's hard to imagine the friction of the rubber with the shape of the shoe. I should try it with shoes compare in details but I'm too lazy for that." Interested in getting a shoe sponsor and what are you planning next? No, the only thing I could do with them would be to sell it on Ebay. I have some other lines to open and then Melloblocco and maybe some repeats.

Second 9a+ by Mateusz Haล‚adaj
Mateusz Haล‚adaj continues to progress and goes to #8 in the 8a ranking game with his second 9a+ done during the last year, First Ley in Margalef. "HELL YES! The best sequence Iโ€™ve tried on rock. Was dreaming about this awkward tufas since I saw Chris on it several years ago. First Ley goes left just before the last crux of FRFM 9b, now psyched to try the original finish in winter!"

Mammut is looking for a climber with a deep knowledge of the sport and customer needs. You should bring basic education in business administration or marketing and possibly some work experience in the climbing industry. Some basic German skills are required โ€“ therefore the job description is in German only.

First 9a by Fedir Samoilov (18)
Fedir Samoilov who last year won one Euro Youth Cup in Lead and who in 2016, has done his first two 8c+', steps up one more grade by doing Martin Krpan 9a in Osp/Misja Pec. "It was the third day of climbing and I did not have a lot of power. I barely were able to get through it and it was good warm weather. Many thanks to my trainer Artur Pechii. I still have a 9a project in Santa Linya and we are planning also to go to Arco in the near future. Picture from Ucrclimbing who says this is the first Ukrainian 9a.

First 9a for Hernan Garcia
Hernan Garcia, who started climbing in 2004 when he was 22 years old, has done his first 9a, Fuck the system in Santa Linya. (c) Henning Wang "I started to try the route one year ago after I had sent Digital System but not seriously. It was in January 2016 that it got seriously and thanks to the advises from Diego Marsella that I could link all the moves. It was a nice experience when I saw a few strong climbers like Domen Skofic send the route very fast and I got extra motivation. Finally yesterday I was able to send it on my second go despite the hot conditions, Now the motivation is high to try some new project in the Santa Linya cave."

Goldrake 9a+ by Stefano Ghisolfi
Stefano Ghisolfi, who did a 9b FA last year as well as being #9 in the Led World Cup has done Goldrake 9a+ in Cornalba. "Had some problem with the top slab, but did it in 4 days! Really nice route, sharp for the skin." ยฉ Enrico Veronese So what is your plan, ambition for 2016 and how do you prepare for this? I think I'm going to try some projects in Italy and then compete in lead world cups. My ambition is always the podium. But I'd like to be more regularly. My trainer Roberto Bagnoli trains me with a strict program, power, power endurance and endurance in the last months. But my passion for rock is too strong that I need to climb outside once a week at least.

It often takes at least 10 minutes to unpack a new rope before you can climb with it. In the video you can see a new way of unpacking a rope in just two minutes. However, when it comes to Tendon ropes, no unpacking is needed, you can just climb directly.