NEWS

Detailed info about the job of a communication assistant at IFSC.

Skwama from La Sportiva with focus also on heel- and toe hooks
In modern climbing heel- and toehooks are used more often and this is why the new La Sportiva shoe - Skwama focused on enabling you perfect friction on such moves. Furthermore, it is a high end, rather soft performance shoe where they have used their patented P3 midsole technology to keep the aggressive profile of the shoe over its lifetime. Comparing sizes, it seems like half size bigger than similar La Sportiva shoes. "Details: Patented S-Heelโ„ข construction provides optimal heel hooking maneuverability and the perfect heel cup fit P3ยฎ patented technology coupled with the new innovative split-sole construction allows the sole to spread when weighted, reducing edge deformation Sticky rubber toe patch for toe hooks and scums"

An 8b+ and an 8c by Nika Potapova (13)
Nika Potapova has done her second 8b+, Marioneta and the day after also her first 8c, Strelovod in Osp/Misja Pec. Last year, she set a female world record on the Zlagboard, hanging for 2.40 min. This is some 40 seconds more than the second best female and in fact she is #2 overall behind Ramonet's 2.45. Nika normally does seven training sessions a week including two rest days. - I "put an eye" on Strelovod in my previous trip in November last year. There is a big hold on the second half of the route where you could relax but it was not so easy for me to reach it, small holds long reaches. I had to use my foot regular on the heel because of my height. It took 4 days, 14 tries for the realization. I am very happy and have new plans: a trip to Arco and competitions in Imst. I want that May become soon!

Calcena - Another Spanish future destination
samuel arroyo has helped us out with an article about Calcena #1 in the 8a ascent trend ranking in Spain. With just 20 inhabitants in the province of Zaragoza this town is experiencing a big change. "The first ascents date back to the 70s when climbers from Zaragoza city opened the first routes of classic cut, using cracks and dihedral to conquer their needles. Three decades after a group of climbers from the area, started to reequip these routes and opened new ones with a sportier character, but it has been just a couple of years ago when Calcena has become a landmark in sports climbing in the north-est of spain. Thanks to new bolting techniques their walls have filled with incredible lines to currently reach 400 routes of all levels, good bolting and good rock quality are its hallmarks, the most of the crags are vertical slabs but we can also find overhanging walls where our forearms will blow up. The possibilities of the area are endless and with great potential, however, we can not forget the environment and therefore in the last months local climbers are grouped with the association Escalada Sostenible. You can get all the info and topos in the Calenca hostel Thanks to the wall's orientation is possible to climb all year around, the climbing area is located at 836 m. above sea level, enabling rock climb even on the hottest days. Calenca video overview.

297 routes rebolted and 100 new ones on Kalymnos
Climb Kalymnos comes with great news. A total of 297 routes were partially or totally rebolted and another 100 new routes have been bolted. The new routes are not yet climbable so no topo is available but one of the new sectors is in the shade on the other side of Arginonta. In the picture there is the one who probably has spent most time bolting on Kalymnos, Claude Idoux. Furthermore, the article tells about the refugee situation which seems to be under control and that there will be a climbing festival starting 8/10.

First 8c and 8c+ for Michaela Kiersch
Michaela Kiersch has had an amazing weekend in Red River Gorge, where she started up with the ascent of her first 8c, Thanatopsis and later did Pure Imagination 8c+, which originally was a 9a. (c) Kevin McNally "I am really excited. I had tried Pure Imagination a few times before this season, but never really dedicated myself to it for the send. Really happy to get it with my second weekend of work. I'm honestly a bit surprised that I had this much success so fast in the season, so now I can have a bit of fun and climb a whole bunch of new routes to look for a project! Maybe Lucifer, maybe 50 words for pump... Maybe the Golden Ticket!!! Then I am competing in the vail World Cup in June" How have you been training lately? Mainly climbing outside on the weekends and gym sessions in the week. I have been doing a bit of campusing and one arm dead hangs.

The First Ascensionist of a climb suggests a grade which is the first guidance for the community. This means in fact that if the FA believes that he/she finds the line relatively easier/harder for other climbers who have different strength etc, the grade should reflect this. If a super strong boulderer, who has done one short cruxy 8c route before, puts up his first long endurance monster and thinks this is much harder than the short 8c, possibly he should not give it an 8c+ or 9a grade. In the same way, if a 150 cm tall woman puts up a route with a dyno crux, possibly the FA grade should reflect how taller climbers are going to find it.

Euro University Games in Zagreb in July
This year, on the 22nd, 23rd and 24th of July, Zagreb โ€“ Croatia will be the host of the first climbing competition ever for the university games. Last year we had an introduction with the European University competition in Sports climbing only. This year, climbing is introduced in the European University Games, so maybe in 2020 we can expect it in the Olympics as well? The competition will be organized in the Croatian capital city of Zagreb. There will be boulder, lead and speed competitions and the competitors must be students of course and they can register for the competition only through their university. Application form.

8B+ FA by barefoot Charles Albert
Charles Albert, who has been Bouldering barefoot in Fontainebleau for the last four years, has done the FA of The Wagon Wheel in Petit Bois, after five sessions of projecting. Previously, "Mowgli" has done a couple of 8B+'s, including the FA of Le Pied ร  Coulisse - Direct, which actually is not possible with your shoes on. "I really don't know if it's easier with shoes because the main foothold is a non existent sloopy thing so it's hard to imagine the friction of the rubber with the shape of the shoe. I should try it with shoes compare in details but I'm too lazy for that." Interested in getting a shoe sponsor and what are you planning next? No, the only thing I could do with them would be to sell it on Ebay. I have some other lines to open and then Melloblocco and maybe some repeats.